Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Car: '87 Hilux dual cab / Spring pack bigger than normal unsure if it provides 2"s or not.

Prob: The steering arm is hitting the U bolts holding the spring pack.
I went to drive out of the driveway this morning and come to the first left turn in our driveway the steering is hitting.
Some many sweet maneuvers later, the car was back up at the house.
After taking the wheel off it looks like (this is a total stab in the dark) the whole hub is falling down on the big ball joint thing. so when i push it down a little and then turn the wheel the steering clears as it used to.
With weight on it/pushing it back up while turning the wheel it hits.
I put the wheel back on as it was getting dark and there is a lot of upwards and downwards play to the wheel hub.
the big ball joint things have been leeking for a while and I'm told they are burfields and they are leaking so need replacing.

My question to you is, is it probable that, this is the cause ? the upwards and downwards movement ? inside that ball joint thing ?

Maybe tomorrow when I get home I will take a picture and draw arrows on it to describe the movement.
I wouldn't have thought there should be any upwards / downwards movement.


Edit: rough drawn sketch.

Should definately not be any up or down movement at all. From what you are describing you have very loose wheel bearings and/or loose/worn/collapsed king pin bearings (trunion). Pull it apart and fix asap, definately do not drive on it as is. Very dangerous and likely to damage alot of parts if you do. If you cant do it yourself you might be better off getting it towed to your local workshop.

This advice is only given from what I understand of your description.

RAY185 wrote:Should definately not be any up or down movement at all. From what you are describing you have very loose wheel bearings and/or loose/worn/collapsed king pin bearings (trunion). Pull it apart and fix asap, definately do not drive on it as is. Very dangerous and likely to damage alot of parts if you do. If you cant do it yourself you might be better off getting it towed to your local workshop.

This advice is only given from what I understand of your description.

Interesting. I replaced the front bearings not too long ago. (maybe a month or two).
where and what is kingpin bearing ?

dw won't be driving on it. couldn't even if i wanted to.

They are the top and bottom bearings in your swivel hub. Should be fairly easy to tell if you jack the car up and see the whole swivel hub is moving which if your J arm is moving I'd say it is. Get the hub rebuild kit with swivel bearings and you will have fixed your leak as well.

hilux79 wrote:They are the top and bottom bearings in your swivel hub. Should be fairly easy to tell if you jack the car up and see the whole swivel hub is moving which if your J arm is moving I'd say it is. Get the hub rebuild kit with swivel bearings and you will have fixed your leak as well.

Ok, Should I Change the Burfields while I'm there?
(One is obviously cracked because in a full lock in 4wd it makes a clicking noise)
I have no idea what these things are worth, anyone?

CHIEF88 wrote:
Interesting. I replaced the front bearings not too long ago. (maybe a month or two).

Do it yourself? Did you remember to bend the tabs on the lock washer to lock the adjusting nut in place?

RAY185 wrote:

CHIEF88 wrote:
Interesting. I replaced the front bearings not too long ago. (maybe a month or two).

Do it yourself? Did you remember to bend the tabs on the lock washer to lock the adjusting nut in place?

Yep, and sure did.

birfields are the joint which allows the axel to bend - cv. these dont leak they just have grease in them.

the leak is comming from your inner axel seal, which comes in the hub rebuild kit mentioned above. it an easy but messy job, get lots of degreaser and 4 rolls of paper towels and youll be right.

unless your cv's were clicking then dont worry about them, just use the rebuild kit. will cost you about $120ish from memory and she will be apples.

Actually mate the car is clicking pretty noticably when i turn in 4wd.
Bought the hub rebuild kit for 141$ and lots of grease yesterday from repco.

Who sells birfields ? (is that the question of the year?)

CHIEF88 wrote:Actually mate the car is clicking pretty noticably when i turn in 4wd.
Bought the hub rebuild kit for 141$ and lots of grease yesterday from repco.

Who sells birfields ? (is that the question of the year?)

Longfields

Weiner wrote:

CHIEF88 wrote:Actually mate the car is clicking pretty noticably when i turn in 4wd.
Bought the hub rebuild kit for 141$ and lots of grease yesterday from repco.

Who sells birfields ? (is that the question of the year?)

Longfields

630$ american before shipping ouch
Is there a cheaper solution?

CHIEF88 wrote:

Weiner wrote:

CHIEF88 wrote:Actually mate the car is clicking pretty noticably when i turn in 4wd.
Bought the hub rebuild kit for 141$ and lots of grease yesterday from repco.

Who sells birfields ? (is that the question of the year?)

Longfields

630$ american before shipping ouch
Is there a cheaper solution?

Genuine Toyota, you can try the wreckers?

Anywhere that sells cv shafts should have some.
Repco etc.

The draglink can also foul on the u-bolts of the front spring pack, fixed with a flat top u-bolt.

Matt

me but your in brisbane

hit up a wreckers or put a wanted add on the forum, wait until you have the new cvs before doing any of it.

what do genuine yota cvs cost?

if your in brissy try sunshine state 4wd for parts they have yota cv's and the rebuild kits. probably shoulda done kingpins when you did your wheelbearings, i would have. If you've been in there recently id also check it all again (at least preload on locknuts, etc).

if you get a replacement cv its good practise to change one as you'd then know what your doing if you need to fix one out bush. its all good practise.

Apparently repco does them for 158 each.
not too bad I guess. Might check out some wreckers.

I took the drivers side all apart today.

The Birfield doesn't looked broken at all or cracked ... the other side might be but is there any way to tell if its broken ?

Do most people change both birfields at the same time ? I was hoping if I could tell which side was broken I could put the side that isn't broken back together.

shorty_f0rty - What is the kingpins ?
(I thought that was the seal between diff pumpkin and driveshaft?)

CHIEF88 wrote:Apparently repco does them for 158 each.
not too bad I guess. Might check out some wreckers.

I took the drivers side all apart today.

The Birfield doesn't looked broken at all or cracked ... the other side might be but is there any way to tell if its broken ?

Do most people change both birfields at the same time ? I was hoping if I could tell which side was broken I could put the side that isn't broken back together.

shorty_f0rty - What is the kingpins ?
(I thought that was the seal between diff pumpkin and driveshaft?)

Kingpin is pretty much your steering arm that bolts to your swivel hub.

Don't see why you can't change one side CV.

Ok I get ya. The pin bit on both the steering arm and the little plate at the bottom. The kingpin goes through the inner race of the bearings top and bottom, keeping the bearings in place.

Speaking of which, how do people without the SST usually go about pushing the kingpins out of the bearings ? Or is there a way to skip that step haha
I was just going by the repair man.

Also today when I was removing everything, I had quite a lot of trouble with the Cone split washers. The four on top of the steering arm and the 6 on the hub ALL gave me troubles :( I was using a tapered punch good size and the damn cone things just kept squashing. Some of them probably wouldn't survive round two in the future. What do people do with them ? can I buy new ones ?

CHIEF88 wrote:Ok I get ya. The pin bit on both the steering arm and the little plate at the bottom. The kingpin goes through the inner race of the bearings top and bottom, keeping the bearings in place.

Speaking of which, how do people without the SST usually go about pushing the kingpins out of the bearings ? Or is there a way to skip that step haha
I was just going by the repair man.

Also today when I was removing everything, I had quite a lot of trouble with the Cone split washers. The four on top of the steering arm and the 6 on the hub ALL gave me troubles :( I was using a tapered punch good size and the damn cone things just kept squashing. Some of them probably wouldn't survive round two in the future. What do people do with them ? can I buy new ones ?

My brother showed me how to get the cone washers out, You just give the top of the swivel hub a few taps with the hammer and they loosen enough to get them out.

You should be able to tap the bearings off with a punch and hammer, just don't hit too hard and tap opposite sites to get them off evenly

Best way to remove cone washers (collets) from both king pins and hubs is to get hold of a brass drift. Basically a punch made of brass. Brass is way softer than the studs. Remove your nuts and split washers and put your brass drift directly over the stud (dont worry about damaging threads, you wont) and give the drift a few good hits with a heavy hammer. This will shock the collets out and then you can remove by hand. You will be able to get a brass drift from any decent tool shop and it will be handy in many similar applications in the future.

hey chief if u are still looking for cv's sunstate 4x4 sell them they are in the archerfield area, they stock terrain tamer stuff. i bought some last year about 100 bucks each from memory.

I found that hitting the stud directly with a brass drift removed the smaller ones, also try tapping the alloy housing near the stud. Make sure the nuts are on the stud, otherwise they go flying and youll never find em.