Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I have searched the bible for a couple of hours and i've done some mega searches, so please just be helpful.

I Know that to do this properly you need to run lux front and bundy rear, or 80series or 60 series diffs. I don't want to cut and spin lux diffs because i think trying to get axles cut down and lengthened every time one breaks will be too much hassel. My question is how to set the steering up. Im wondering about power steering also. Would it be worth running p/steering if my ideal tyre size is 35x12.5? If i didn't run p/s then where does the linkages bolt up. Do i keep my original steering box or do i go full lux, and weld the link between lux box and zook steering wheel? I Know this is a lot of questions but i am still thinking it through.

Running a lux front i would pretty much just need to move the spring pads in, set the steering up and get the same ratio as the back? Or is there more to it...

Josh

hey matey.. i did the lux/bundy conversion about a year ago.. you are right.. need a lux housing in the front, and a bundy rear housing. As for the steering, i got a high steer kit from low range off road (USA). Cant remember how much it was now!! There are other ways of setting the steering up.. eg heat up and bend the original zook steering arm.. or you can make one up out of mercede bendz parts or something. Personally, i went for the tonka tough/cheap/safest set up.. which was the high steer.
here is a pic when it was first put in. Im using FJ40 tie rod ends too.. (this all comes with the kit)

Thanks heaps for that. I hadn't heard of a conversion kit for it which depending on price may be my best option. Did you use the original steering box, or did you go power steering???

And are the lux front axles setup for SPOA???

Josh

Hey mate yes the lux is set up for spoa, if you want check mine out for ideas. I run jimny ps on mine and it turns 35s at 5psi.
Nik

NIK, i'd love to check out your truck for ideas, Im so very close to getting my stuff together... What did you do for hand brakes?

Josh

31zook wrote:Thanks heaps for that. I hadn't heard of a conversion kit for it which depending on price may be my best option. Did you use the original steering box, or did you go power steering???

And are the lux front axles setup for SPOA???

Josh

I used the original zook steering box (non power steer). the kit is pretty much a bolt on job. The lux fronts are set up for SPOA yes.. but you will need to grind the lux spring perches off, and weld them (or even better, get new ones!!) back on to suit the zook width. (gotta move each perch in around 18mm or something.. cant remember now). The bundy housing is set up for coils, so you will need to strip it right back to the bare housing, then weld perchs and shocky mounts on. You can get tonka tough perches/shocky mounts from low range off road also. Heres some more pics..
Bundy rear, with new stuff ready to bolt on

I plan on triangle 4-link rear... So the rear I'm not so worried about... OK so with the the 35x10.5, i think you run, there is no real need for power steering... a little bit of muscle and where away. Do you think i could dodge up the front and cut my zook tie rod near the box and rejoin it to the lux tie rod or is there something im missing... What did you do for brakes on the rear? On a zook there is one brake line, but what about a bundy diff? does it have two brake line or is there an easy fix with this? Do i need to run a brake proportion in NSW???

Josh

31zook wrote:OK so with the the 35x10.5, i think you run, there is no real need for power steering... a little bit of muscle and where away.

Have you ever wheeled any car with 35s and no power steering? I wheeled my 40 like this and it absolutely sucked balls. Go power steering, trust me. The only place I would consider not having PS is in mud and if that is all you drive, you probably don't really need lux axles anyway.

31zook wrote: Do you think i could dodge up the front and cut my zook tie rod near the box and rejoin it to the lux tie rod or is there something im missing...

If you cut/weld any of your steering components, you can pretty much forget about getting it engineered. Just fyi. It's also pretty dodgy. Just go either hi-steer (preferred) or crossover steering. Vit or Jimny pump/boxes are probably the easiest to convert on to a sierra but there are endless pump-box combos to choose from. I'm running a ford teardrop pump to a 60 series landcruiser box.

31zook wrote: What did you do for brakes on the rear? On a zook there is one brake line, but what about a bundy diff? does it have two brake line or is there an easy fix with this? Do i need to run a brake proportion in NSW???

You can use the existing zook hard lines to the rear. The bundy has one soft line that runs to a T-piece on the diff, then two hard lines that run to each drum. The soft line is probably the only bit you will possibly need to get made up.
Not sure about the proportioning valve. I think if you are staying with drums on the rear you should be ok without one.



Please don't take offense but it sounds like you need to do some more research before picking up a spanner.

I have searched the bible for a couple of hours and i've done some mega searches

....won't cut it if you have not done this before. Go to pirate and read every zook build you can find (most of them have axle conversions of one sort or another) then do the same on zuwharrie and zukikrawlers. If you are unsure about how to set up your steering or brakes then you are not ready to start IMO.

31zook wrote:I plan on triangle 4-link rear... So the rear I'm not so worried about... OK so with the the 35x10.5, i think you run, there is no real need for power steering... a little bit of muscle and where away. Do you think i could dodge up the front and cut my zook tie rod near the box and rejoin it to the lux tie rod or is there something im missing... What did you do for brakes on the rear? On a zook there is one brake line, but what about a bundy diff? does it have two brake line or is there an easy fix with this? Do i need to run a brake proportion in NSW???

Josh

V840 is correct with pretty much all that.. as for the steering with the 35's.. i dont find it to bad. I also run a RTC damper. But by all means, if you have got it.. go the power steer. Im in no rush to do it though!! As for the high steer kit, look on their site and it will be explained. They send you the FJ40 tie rods etc.. so once bolted together, the tie rod, tie rod ends, and steering arm will be the "high steer" set up.. which will bolt straight into the zook box. No cutting then welding things back together is required The threads for the lux/zook brake lines are the same.. another screw on job.

I just used the transfer mounted handbrake as when the conversion was done the lower rear shock mounts were put in the way of the cable for the hilux rear drums!
Pm me if you want to come check mine out its off the road at the moment getting tidied up for rego.
Im over near kurri so not far from you.
Nik

[/quote]V840 is correct with pretty much all that.. as for the steering with the 35's.. i dont find it to bad. I also run a RTC damper. But by all means, if you have got it.. go the power steer. Im in no rush to do it though!! As for the high steer kit, look on their site and it will be explained. They send you the FJ40 tie rods etc.. so once bolted together, the tie rod, tie rod ends, and steering arm will be the "high steer" set up.. which will bolt straight into the zook box. No cutting then welding things back together is required The threads for the lux/zook brake lines are the same.. another screw on job. [/quote]

ahh, all i wanted to know was what to use to make it all connect up properly. My dodge zook to lux steering rod assembely was just an idea that jumped into my head. Thanks NIK, ive got a mate with a zook on 31s with an import Tcase hand brake and it doesn't work at all but tony at sandgate said that the 1lt hand brake works heaps good so ill try that one next

Im still learing and if i knew all the answers then why would i be asking.

Josh

if you have anymore qtns just fire away matey.. if i can i'll gladly answer them

have a read through my build,
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic157486.php
it is basicly what your about to do.

Note the changed steer arms toward the end of the thread, with Hilux arms and Suzuki pitman arm you will lose steering lock.

Ok so i did a little more research, and this is my new question. A petrol lux runs 4.8s. so would i be able to stick a lux center into a bundy diff? Are the spline count the same???

Josh

31zook wrote:Ok so i did a little more research, and this is my new question. A petrol lux runs 4.8s. so would i be able to stick a lux center into a bundy diff? Are the spline count the same???

Josh

yes you can
i was originally running lux front and rear with 4.88s
got sick of the busted uni joints and vibrations.
i got the bundy rear and bolted centerr into bundy housing and axles. no mods to center

Thanks heaps 11_evl, that is what i had hoped for.

What diff ratios are the lux conversion ppl running who have 35s. I've got 6.5.1s and think that 4.8s in the diff will be low enough???

31zook wrote:What diff ratios are the lux conversion ppl running who have 35s. I've got 6.5.1s and think that 4.8s in the diff will be low enough???

4.88, with 6.5-1, and running 35's (actually 34.5 or so). Its a tad undergeared. With true 35's.. you'll be spot on!!

Depends how much highway driving you do. Mine does about 90 at 400rpm with 35s 4.8s and 6.5 t/c but offroad its great although sometimes I wish for lower
Come have a drive if you want (but make it next week when I have the bonnet back on)
Nik

NIK wrote:Depends how much highway driving you do. Mine does about 90 at 400rpm with 35s 4.8s and 6.5 t/c but offroad its great although sometimes I wish for lower
Come have a drive if you want (but make it next week when I have the bonnet back on)
Nik

haha OK mate ill pm you.

With my 33s i did a full ruf and took as much out of my fire wall as i could and it still rubbed a little. What do you do to get 35s to not scrub? im thinking about keeping the standard zook springs and just spoaing the front. would lux springs up front be a worth while investment?

Josh

I ran ruf with flat springs and without bumpstops they only rubbed on the headlight bucket. So with some trimming and proper bumpstops it dosnt touch the firewall.
Nik

NIK wrote:I ran ruf with flat springs and without bumpstops they only rubbed on the headlight bucket. So with some trimming and proper bumpstops it dosnt touch the firewall.
Nik

What width are you running? My 14" wide boggers scrubbed but they was on mega offset rims... Im thinking about getting it engineered for 37x12.5x15 then if i want to go bigger i can do it legaly without having to engineer again... Do engineers check up on rim height or are they more worried about overall diameter?

Josh

What ever is written on your report is what you should have, anything else and you could get fined.
So I cant even put stock rims on!
My report states tyre size and rim size, but the offset was checked first to make sure it was ok although its not on my report. Im running standard 15x8 toyota steel rims (not flipped).
I think on 37 Id need to cut my firewall.
Nik

I thought that if it was engineered for 37s then i can run any tyre under that size. I'll just be reving off its nut on the highway. Ok so what legal porpose to the electric speedo box's serve. The marks adapters box makes it so you can get an accurate speedo reading with two different tyres sizes. Im having trouble getting in contact with athol so im going with what another engineer mate told me.

Josh

get it up there wrote:hey matey.. i did the lux/bundy conversion about a year ago.. you are right.. need a lux housing in the front, and a bundy rear housing. As for the steering, i got a high steer kit from low range off road (USA). Cant remember how much it was now!! There are other ways of setting the steering up.. eg heat up and bend the original zook steering arm.. or you can make one up out of mercede bendz parts or something. Personally, i went for the tonka tough/cheap/safest set up.. which was the high steer.
here is a pic when it was first put in. Im using FJ40 tie rod ends too.. (this all comes with the kit)

can you post the link where you got it from?

Im not 100% sure if this is the site but its what i could come up with: http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/samurai.htm

Josh

31zook wrote:Im not 100% sure if this is the site but its what i could come up with: http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/samurai.htm

Josh

Thats the one.. under toyota axle swap

I am also going to be undertaking this steering swap to replace the very dodgy Z link setup on my Peace off shiite...i mean suzuki
Is this kit good enough, and are there any cheaper/better ones out the seems a little pricey to me http://72.34.32.141/~snakerac/product_i ... 47050d992a

I think that is a little over priced... SR have a habit of doing this with everthing... nah im going to get the kit from the states, they would have been tried and tested more then anything australia has to offer... Its only about $573 in aust money to buy from the states and postage won't make up the extra $727 wanted.

Josh

yeah hopefully the exchange rate evens out a bit.
My main concern is time, iam very eager to get mine moving
locktup do a similar kit but im not sure if its as easy as bolt on
http://www.locktup4x4.com.au/product/64 ... aaf0b.aspx