Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Been having problem with my 1997 2.8 turbo patrol. Low oil pressure loss of power etc. i done a compression test and things seem to be ok by nissan standards.

Just wanting to know if anyone has used or know of someone that has and if they have had results or not


Cheers junior.....

Yep, have used CEM with success.. the amount of shiz that comes out once you drain the oil after runnin the CEM is amazing. Well worth it.

What exactly is The Cost Effective Maintenance?

joel HJ60 wrote:What exactly is The Cost Effective Maintenance?

http://www.costeffective.com.au/

I put 100ml in my ols 2.8 and after running for 20 min i drained 9ltrs out of the sump

http://www.costeffective.com.au/

sp its well worth the money....

how much do you add and how often do you use it

is it the same as using an engine flush ?

money_killer wrote:is it the same as using an engine flush ?

yep

Just use diesel or trans fluid, does the same thing, some of thoes "fancy hi tech" oil additives can do more harm than good if you do decide to rebuild your donk. I'd only use them if you were going to sell ASAP.

any merit to the concern of removing old carbon which actually is 'helping' things seal? I did a flush on an old 308, and it was the worst thing I ever did. Started smoking like a beyatch, then everything else got grumpy, and ended up grinding a lobe off the cam (in no way do I blame the flush for that!!)

It accelerated the onset of old age problems in the motor - it wasn't a quick fix, and as such I won't run it through my 340,000k 1HZ for fear of a similar problem... Ignorance is bliss for me...

(although it might speed up the onset of a 1HD-FT swap... hmm...)

mhgill wrote:Just use diesel or trans fluid, does the same thing, some of thoes "fancy hi tech" oil additives can do more harm than good if you do decide to rebuild your donk. I'd only use them if you were going to sell ASAP.

My GQ has done round 75-100k klms since i did mine without a problem.
Roachie did his, he gave me the rest of the bottle of his, and his is still going... Having said that, I wouldnt use it on a grenade.

But as you said, it may fawk some engines, I dont know how, but anything in this world is possible.. and totally YMMV, DSAYOR.

mhgill wrote:Just use diesel or trans fluid, does the same thing, some of thoes "fancy hi tech" oil additives can do more harm than good if you do decide to rebuild your donk. I'd only use them if you were going to sell ASAP.

Sorry about thread hijack but..............................................

At the risk of showing my ignorance, how do you use diesel or trans fuid as oil flush? What ratio do you use it at?

I have also heard of using an oil high in detergents for about 20 mins (Castrol GTX or any cheap diesel oil I suppose) after an initial flush before putting the good oil back in.

Is this accurate. My engine is a ZD30 if that makes a difference. (no need for comment Bruce!! )

Just an FYI for anybody interested in buying some of the CEM stuff:

Dennison Conradi @ Cost Effective Maintenance wrote:Hi James,

For the 4.2L Patrol I would recommend 250mL of the Flushing Oil Concentrate and 1L of the FTC-Decarbonizer.

With the Flushing Oil Concentrate it takes 12.5mL per liter of sump oil for the major flush and 2.5mL per Liter of Sump oil for the maintenance flush. All up this means the Flush should last 4-5 services.

The FTC-Decarbonizer is added to the fuel at 1L of FTC to 800L of Fuel. So the 1 liter of FTC will be enough for the Patrol.

1L FTC $111
250mL FOC $88
Total $199

The prices for the FTC and Flush do get cheaper the more you buy.

bigbluemav wrote:

mhgill wrote:Just use diesel or trans fluid, does the same thing, some of thoes "fancy hi tech" oil additives can do more harm than good if you do decide to rebuild your donk. I'd only use them if you were going to sell ASAP.

Sorry about thread hijack but..............................................

At the risk of showing my ignorance, how do you use diesel or trans fuid as oil flush? What ratio do you use it at?

I have also heard of using an oil high in detergents for about 20 mins (Castrol GTX or any cheap diesel oil I suppose) after an initial flush before putting the good oil back in.

Is this accurate. My engine is a ZD30 if that makes a difference. (no need for comment Bruce!! )

About 10% diesel / oil ratio. Ie. 500ml Diesel in 5L oil Should do it. FYI i've only ever used it in petrol engines.

mhgill wrote:Just use diesel or trans fluid, does the same thing, some of thoes "fancy hi tech" oil additives can do more harm than good if you do decide to rebuild your donk. I'd only use them if you were going to sell ASAP.

wow, I would have thought a purpose built product should be far less likely to do damage than a 'this ll do the same job' rememdy.

thehanko wrote:a purpose built product

I'll grant you a "purpose-built website" promoting the products, but I'm not willing to go all the way to "a purpose built product".

mhgill wrote:

bigbluemav wrote:

mhgill wrote:Just use diesel or trans fluid, does the same thing, some of thoes "fancy hi tech" oil additives can do more harm than good if you do decide to rebuild your donk. I'd only use them if you were going to sell ASAP.

Sorry about thread hijack but..............................................

At the risk of showing my ignorance, how do you use diesel or trans fuid as oil flush? What ratio do you use it at?

I have also heard of using an oil high in detergents for about 20 mins (Castrol GTX or any cheap diesel oil I suppose) after an initial flush before putting the good oil back in.

Is this accurate. My engine is a ZD30 if that makes a difference. (no need for comment Bruce!! )

About 10% diesel / oil ratio. Ie. 500ml Diesel in 5L oil Should do it. FYI i've only ever used it in petrol engines.

this is a sure fire way to damage your bottom end bearings and cam bearings
the diesel is far too light a grade to lubricate and suspend the crank causing premature wear on your bearings
diesel will sit at the bottom of the sump and be picked up first
i have seen many engines fail due to leaky injector seals allowing diesel into the sump dont use diesel and i would not use trans fluid either as it has friction modifiers in it

Used it in my 60 series about 100,000klms after a top end rebuild oil now stays a lot cleaner in between changes!

SCANAS wrote:Used it in my 60 series about 100,000klms after a top end rebuild oil now stays a lot cleaner in between changes!

Cleaner? How so?

The used oil doesn't come out pitch black or stain my hands anymore. I change it religiously every 5k even if on a trip

have used it on a surf t/d and it surprised me how well it worked
i would reccomend it no probs for a diesel used it in a few different petrol motors with varying degrees of success

Why don't you all just use a quality oil in the first place?

brad-chevlux wrote:Why don't you all just use a quality oil in the first place?

that works if you owned it from new, or its had quality oil from new.

cooter wrote:

mhgill wrote:

bigbluemav wrote:

mhgill wrote:Just use diesel or trans fluid, does the same thing, some of thoes "fancy hi tech" oil additives can do more harm than good if you do decide to rebuild your donk. I'd only use them if you were going to sell ASAP.

Sorry about thread hijack but..............................................

At the risk of showing my ignorance, how do you use diesel or trans fuid as oil flush? What ratio do you use it at?

I have also heard of using an oil high in detergents for about 20 mins (Castrol GTX or any cheap diesel oil I suppose) after an initial flush before putting the good oil back in.

Is this accurate. My engine is a ZD30 if that makes a difference. (no need for comment Bruce!! )

About 10% diesel / oil ratio. Ie. 500ml Diesel in 5L oil Should do it. FYI i've only ever used it in petrol engines.

this is a sure fire way to damage your bottom end bearings and cam bearings
the diesel is far too light a grade to lubricate and suspend the crank causing premature wear on your bearings
diesel will sit at the bottom of the sump and be picked up first
i have seen many engines fail due to leaky injector seals allowing diesel into the sump dont use diesel and i would not use trans fluid either as it has friction modifiers in it

I drained the oil on a TD42. Then disconnected the fuel solinoid. Then put 10lts of diesel in the sump and turned it over for 10secs. Drained and did again.
Then new filters and oil, and ran the car back up to temp. then drained and put new filters in.
Was amazed at the amount of shit that come out.
this was on a 450 000km oild engine. Appeared to be no damage. New owners where still happy with it.

I use penrite oil which i change every 5k with new filters everytime. It won't stop a 25yr old diesel engine with 465,000ks building up contaminents tho. For my vehicle it did a great job.

Without Oil Analysis, you are just guessing.

I heard sacrificing virgins helps persuade the gods to keep my oil cleaner.

Buy a kit, take a sample, send it in, get the results.

http://neuralfibre.com/paul/4wd/1hz-oil ... il-changes
http://neuralfibre.com/paul/4wd/landcru ... -internals

I never saw colour as one of the testing criteria.

Paul

My oil consumption halved, less smoke and compression on number 1 came back down to specs. For the money I am satisfied. I am sure CEM have some oil analysis samples for you.

SCANAS wrote:My oil consumption halved, less smoke and compression on number 1 came back down to specs. For the money I am satisfied. I am sure CEM have some oil analysis samples for you.

only if you are riveted to the car.

JNRS2.8 wrote:sp its well worth the money....

how much do you add and how often do you use it

I used an oil flush but not CEM different brand I just poured the whole lot in 250ml I think and drove for about 20 mins then drained then refill with new oil plus filters.

I don't think the amount you use matters too much more the length of time you leave it before draining as once you pour it in it's breaking down the oil straight away so the more you use the less time you have to mess around before properly changing.

Other than that seemed to make the engine quieter for me, oil was a little cleaner for the next change.

I don't think you'd get much damage unless you never changed the oil I wouldn't bother with the oil additives though I think they are pointless and could just hide problems which still come anyway just further down the track.