Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey all.
Was wondering if any one has had any experience with aftermarket CV's?
Just broke one and was thinking about buying aftermarket. Are they any stronger than genuine and are they much more expensive to buy.
Its a GQ.

Get a GU diff, they bolt in and are stronger than GQ.

After 33 years I just replaced the c/vs in my.... Fj40... with after market ones, I payed extra to get the best I possibly could... so I`m hoping the same life span as before. they weren`t easy to get so here`s hoping..

I cant really afford a GU diff at the moment. Otherwise I would. I have an ARB air locker in the front. Also dont know if that would fit into a GU diff.
Found BBM does aftermarket cromoly CV's and axels. Just wondering if something like that is worth the extra money.

mellows40 wrote:After 33 years I just replaced the c/vs in my.... Fj40... with after market ones, I payed extra to get the best I possibly could... so I`m hoping the same life span as before. they weren`t easy to get so here`s hoping..

so did you get longfields?
Jes

DanwinGQ wrote:I cant really afford a GU diff at the moment. Otherwise I would. I have an ARB air locker in the front. Also dont know if that would fit into a GU diff.
Found BBM does aftermarket cromoly CV's and axels. Just wondering if something like that is worth the extra money.

a gu diff will probably come it at a comparable price to a set of CAL ofroad CV's for your GQ diff.

CAL- customer service is just about NIL< its delaer service seems to be exactly the SAME.

Cal cv's offer NO warranty against breakage, ( they may imply it but they donot offer it.

that said, apparently they are breaking the GU CAL cv's but not many GQ- Cal cv's, this is with high HP and bigh tyres i might add.

If i were you, i would find a FACTORY CV, put it in and if you break number 2 and cant spare the 50$ and 15 mins to keep changing them look at upgrading.

you can also get longfields grafted into your GQ diff.

Jes

i went with yuri harden cv for mine gq

stressed wrote:i went with yuri harden cv for mine gq

Yep me too and I have done the last nissan trials, willowglen and many other hard trips with the club and have never broken one. Yuri do a great job on these.

Dave

it seems that BBM CV's are going to b pretty expensive. Still waiting for a price but doesnt sound good. A GU diff would be very simular in price.
The sales rep also said they are not real good for a tourer. More set for comp use as they make a lot of noise and clunks.
Seems a 2nd hand CV may be the way out and save for a GU diff.

I have heard of these YURI hardened CV's.
What sort of dollars are they worth??
Did u supply your own CV or buy off them already hardened??

You can either send your to be done or he can supply brand new and modify them. It is some time since I got mine but they were about $600 for the pair of brand newies to my door. Not bad when chromo's are $1000 more plus.

Dave

G`day Jess,

I`m not sure which ones are in there, My mechanic said they were the best he could get at the time, without having to wait too long. He said they were one step under chromoly c/v`s What I can tell you is that they weren`t cheap The labour cost for the job was $250.00 the parts went at $650.00... so all I can say is that I`m not hard on it so I hope the last long enough till I can start going and doing some tough 4x4ing.. As the body has a little rust in the floor, It probably won`t be that long before I make it into a dedicated off roader..

sounds like he used NTN CV's, these are the best normal cv's and factory fitted.

ive just done the same thing
i have a gq with a front air locker and brocken a cv
so can some one explain yuris to me and how do i get them,i just put a standard 2nd hand one in it for now but i guess its gunna happen again

DanwinGQ wrote:I have heard of these YURI hardened CV's.
What sort of dollars are they worth??
Did u supply your own CV or buy off them already hardened??

Just a quick one, the treated CVs wouldnt be hardened would they? It would make them more brittle. They would be "softened" to make them tougher, but wear quicker.

pom300 wrote:ive just done the same thing
i have a gq with a front air locker and brocken a cv
so can some one explain yuris to me and how do i get them,i just put a standard 2nd hand one in it for now but i guess its gunna happen again

you can order then via the webstite, and or over the phone. yuri are very good on there customer service and i have never had any problems.

link to yuri
http://www.yuri4x4.com/cv_joints.php

Im running cals cvs, as i got the best of the best (or what I thought were), they set me back $1800. I'm yet to test them out, and i have been told they do clunk and grind a bit, however i'm not to worried, as ive seen what they've gone through. IMO, regarding the breaking, well you cant expect 300kws and 37's not to bust something with a front locker in.

hulsty wrote:

DanwinGQ wrote:I have heard of these YURI hardened CV's.
What sort of dollars are they worth??
Did u supply your own CV or buy off them already hardened??

Just a quick one, the treated CVs wouldnt be hardened would they? It would make them more brittle. They would be "softened" to make them tougher, but wear quicker.

My understanding is;

They make the cv softer, so it has a little give, and then they weld a ring onto the outside of the cv cup. This means the cv cup retains its strength when you turn the wheels and put the power down. Most cvs crack the cup as the balls move out and flex against the inside of the cup (when you turn), and the ring helps buy adding strength to the cup (and limiting this amount of flex) and as a result, it will make it a stronger cv than the std unit. As for wear, i doubt you'd ever wear out out in your life time in a nissan. However, i think you'll find that once you upgrade the cvs, you will start to snap the inner axel, so its a game of pro's and con's. For every advantage, you have a disadvantage.

This was the one of the leading factors to why i went cals. I get two cro molly cv's with upgraded spline count, and i also get two treated inner axel. So it kills two birds with one stone. And if you think about it, $1800 (delivered to my door within a week) divided by 4 is $450, so its not really that expensive.

Reddo wrote:

hulsty wrote:

DanwinGQ wrote:I have heard of these YURI hardened CV's.
What sort of dollars are they worth??
Did u supply your own CV or buy off them already hardened??

Just a quick one, the treated CVs wouldnt be hardened would they? It would make them more brittle. They would be "softened" to make them tougher, but wear quicker.

My understanding is;

They make the cv softer, so it has a little give, and then they weld a ring onto the outside of the cv cup. This means the cv cup retains its strength when you turn the wheels and put the power down. Most cvs crack the cup as the balls move out and flex against the inside of the cup (when you turn), and the ring helps buy adding strength to the cup (and limiting this amount of flex) and as a result, it will make it a stronger cv than the std unit. As for wear, i doubt you'd ever wear out out in your life time in a nissan. However, i think you'll find that once you upgrade the cvs, you will start to snap the inner axel, so its a game of pro's and con's. For every advantage, you have a disadvantage.

This was the one of the leading factors to why i went cals. I get two cro molly cv's with upgraded spline count, and i also get two treated inner axel. So it kills two birds with one stone. And if you think about it, $1800 (delivered to my door within a week) divided by 4 is $450, so its not really that expensive.

I agee with your take on making them softer and the ring is added to retain the balls, but the next weekest point is usually the free wheeling hub and that is heaps easier to change the a cv.

Dave

yeh i was going to give yuri cv's a go next time i break a cv.....

smashed both my standard cv;s out last week, paid 1800 for cal offroad ones and axels, hopefully they fix my problem

CruiserPatrol wrote:

Reddo wrote:

hulsty wrote:

DanwinGQ wrote:I have heard of these YURI hardened CV's.
What sort of dollars are they worth??
Did u supply your own CV or buy off them already hardened??

Just a quick one, the treated CVs wouldnt be hardened would they? It would make them more brittle. They would be "softened" to make them tougher, but wear quicker.

My understanding is;

They make the cv softer, so it has a little give, and then they weld a ring onto the outside of the cv cup. This means the cv cup retains its strength when you turn the wheels and put the power down. Most cvs crack the cup as the balls move out and flex against the inside of the cup (when you turn), and the ring helps buy adding strength to the cup (and limiting this amount of flex) and as a result, it will make it a stronger cv than the std unit. As for wear, i doubt you'd ever wear out out in your life time in a nissan. However, i think you'll find that once you upgrade the cvs, you will start to snap the inner axel, so its a game of pro's and con's. For every advantage, you have a disadvantage.

This was the one of the leading factors to why i went cals. I get two cro molly cv's with upgraded spline count, and i also get two treated inner axel. So it kills two birds with one stone. And if you think about it, $1800 (delivered to my door within a week) divided by 4 is $450, so its not really that expensive.

I agee with your take on making them softer and the ring is added to retain the balls, but the next weekest point is usually the free wheeling hub and that is heaps easier to change the a cv.

Dave

ahh thanks for that dave, you i just learnt something else i can web wheel. My understanding was that the axel was the next one on the list haha

jessie928 wrote:

DanwinGQ wrote:I cant really afford a GU diff at the moment. Otherwise I would. I have an ARB air locker in the front. Also dont know if that would fit into a GU diff.
Found BBM does aftermarket cromoly CV's and axels. Just wondering if something like that is worth the extra money.

a gu diff will probably come it at a comparable price to a set of CAL ofroad CV's for your GQ diff.

CAL- customer service is just about NIL< its delaer service seems to be exactly the SAME.

Cal cv's offer NO warranty against breakage, ( they may imply it but they donot offer it.

that said, apparently they are breaking the GU CAL cv's but not many GQ- Cal cv's, this is with high HP and bigh tyres i might add.

If i were you, i would find a FACTORY CV, put it in and if you break number 2 and cant spare the 50$ and 15 mins to keep changing them look at upgrading.

you can also get longfields grafted into your GQ diff.

Jes

cal cvs are not worth the money as for braking them with big hp well there has been a couple of cases that i know of and they werent with big hp 1 was with a na deisel and the othere was a mild 4.5 petrol auto and they didnt get warranty .

in my opinion it is not a question of power, but more a matter of driving style and traction. if you have a front locker and a wheel down in a hole with a heap of grip, a 4.2 petty would bust just about anything. when you jump a 300RWKW patrol with the front locker in and slam the front down, the engine does not bog down(that load is transferred to to the drivetrain). when you jump a 60 RWKW patrol with the front locker in and slam the front down(in first low), the engine does not bog down(that load is transferred to to the drivetrain).
the fact remains that with low gearing the engine will not give up and the drivetrain cops it. traction and driving attitude are the two culprits.

85lux wrote:in my opinion it is not a question of power, but more a matter of driving style and traction. if you have a front locker and a wheel down in a hole with a heap of grip, a 4.2 petty would bust just about anything. when you jump a 300RWKW patrol with the front locker in and slam the front down, the engine does not bog down(that load is transferred to to the drivetrain). when you jump a 60 RWKW patrol with the front locker in and slam the front down(in first low), the engine does not bog down(that load is transferred to to the drivetrain).
the fact remains that with low gearing the engine will not give up and the drivetrain cops it. traction and driving attitude are the two culprits.

but if you drive a hilux ur never gonna brake anything coz they are so slow.

But i agree with you jimmy, nothing is gonna be unbrakable so if you try to drive with that in the back of your mind and not " Im gonna hit this hole at mack 1 with the front locker in coz I have Cals and they wont break" .

Your alot less likely to be replacing them

Been reading this post, and could not resist to ask: Has anyone had any experience with Yuri's?
I drive a 2000 GU TB45. Running 36", with chains and a front locker on the wknds, and now planning to beef-up the TB45 with a charger, since I've already done r&p and transffer gear (43%).
Cal seems a little steep...
Feedback?

jessie928 wrote:

DanwinGQ wrote:I cant really afford a GU diff at the moment. Otherwise I would. I have an ARB air locker in the front. Also dont know if that would fit into a GU diff.
Found BBM does aftermarket cromoly CV's and axels. Just wondering if something like that is worth the extra money.

a gu diff will probably come it at a comparable price to a set of CAL ofroad CV's for your GQ diff.

CAL- customer service is just about NIL< its delaer service seems to be exactly the SAME.

Cal cv's offer NO warranty against breakage, ( they may imply it but they donot offer it.

that said, apparently they are breaking the GU CAL cv's but not many GQ- Cal cv's, this is with high HP and bigh tyres i might add.

If i were you, i would find a FACTORY CV, put it in and if you break number 2 and cant spare the 50$ and 15 mins to keep changing them look at upgrading.

you can also get longfields grafted into your GQ diff.

Jes

i got a quote from nissan the other day for a CV and axle for a gq (short side) and at full trade it would set me back $980!!!
for that price id get cals.
oh and there was only one in the whole of aus!!

c.v.1 on here sells NTN cv's on axles at a reasonable price. NTN are what nissan use.

The cals being $1835 with no warranty according to the Superior Engineering web site - http://www.superiorengineering.com.au/p ... ts_id=2846
I would be spending less money and getting yuri's cv's or seeing how hard it is to put longfields in the GQ diff. I think 1madengineer knows how to do the lonfield conversion.

guys i have both cv's for sale atm in the drive train section yuri's and cals check them out

I put a set of Cals in mine as short side was ready to let go (after 4 years no breakages) and it's only a n/a dsl with 35s and lockers, before a month long trip in kimberley.

I HOPE it's normal but they make a god awful raquet when turning, even say with hubs locked but xfer in 2wd, just slowly turning about half way between straight and lock on steering, and they click their heads off, sounds like the whole front end is about to fall out.

Can someone confirm this is normal? I don't have the power to break them and don't drive like an idiot and I AM prepared to accept they are noisey IF that is normal and it won't compromise their reliability... has anyone tried different grease or anything to see if it makes a difference???