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........ am i in trouble?
Posted: Tue Apr 20, 2004 4:50 am
by SimplyPV
ok i managed to peel the head cover off and took a peek inside the head. everything seems ok BUT when i pulled spark plug wire #1 (i think thats the one closest to the front of the engine) out, it was dripping with oil.... is that expected since i threw a rod (dunno which one but suspecting its cyl #1)..... or is the head shot? and just how do i make sure that the timing belt is rotated to where its spose to be. it says it needs to be rotated untill fully.... is that what the "F" mark on the camshaft pull means? do i rotate the f until it is to the top of the camshaft???
Posted: Wed Apr 21, 2004 10:04 pm
by dow50r
Rip into it and take the head off, you will probably find a hole in the centre of the piston . Theres all sorts to line up down there, dissy on number 1 lead, crank on tdc and cam with lobes from number 1 rocking or both pointing up.
Andrew Wollongong 0z
Posted: Thu Apr 22, 2004 6:20 am
by SimplyPV
well as it turns out, i couldnt turn the crank anyways, piston # 1 bit it. i know that cuz when i tore the head off, i was able to move piston 2, 3, and 4 a bit with the crank, but piston 1 is staying put. so far the head looks ok. i'll have to deal with the timing when i put the engine back together. i'm getting a new block anyways so i dont think it would of mattered.
Timimg
Posted: Thu Apr 22, 2004 7:47 am
by Roktruk
Not knowing what engine it is, I can only make a few suggestions.
1. Buy a workshop manual - all sorts of good info here.
2. For an overhead cam, there's all sorts of marks to line up. Make sure the engine is not 180 degrees out- the engine spins twice for every revolution of the cam.
3. If it's a pushrod motor, there is usually a sequence for tightening the rockers. Same applies for torquing down the cam on a OHC motor.
4. when you're done, turn it slowly by hand. Better to meet resistance than have the starter drive a valve through a new piston (seen this - very ugly)
5. If it's a diesel, make sure the pump is lined up as well.
6. Torquing the head in sequence is critical. also re-torquing after x kms if necessary, although most aftermarket gaskets don't require this.
7. Line up the distributor with no 1 on top dead centre, ie valves on the rock. It should start here, and can be tuned to the proper advance.
It's been a very long time since I've done this stuff, so I'm donnig the flame proof suit now, coz I've probably forgotten a heap of other stuff