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Tube benders
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Tube benders
well since Im young (read stupid enough to waste money) im looking into getting a JD2 model 3 bender from the US, even with shipping its over 200 less than OPW are selling it for.
Can you recomend me another bender in that leauge for similar money or have you got one what did you think? If you have a JD2 model 3 let me know as i have a few questions for aussie owners about them
second
Tube notchers
did you buy one? make one?
I can use a lathe at work but thats impractical as the bender wont be at work!
Im looking into making one almost exactly like this
abit more basic, vblock or vice clamp. the Block will pivot for angled cuts (stainless shaft, sinterd bearings ) all parts scrap from work gotta love that.
if you were building one what would you do differntly to the one you have?
and finally cutters
holesaws V endmills ect
I can get sharp cutters, broken shafts ect from work all in the 1.5" and up basket or am i better going off and using a holesaw? this sort of depends how my shaft will end and what i do with it for attaching a cutter
Cheers
Tim
Can you recomend me another bender in that leauge for similar money or have you got one what did you think? If you have a JD2 model 3 let me know as i have a few questions for aussie owners about them
second
Tube notchers
did you buy one? make one?
I can use a lathe at work but thats impractical as the bender wont be at work!
Im looking into making one almost exactly like this
abit more basic, vblock or vice clamp. the Block will pivot for angled cuts (stainless shaft, sinterd bearings ) all parts scrap from work gotta love that.
if you were building one what would you do differntly to the one you have?
and finally cutters
holesaws V endmills ect
I can get sharp cutters, broken shafts ect from work all in the 1.5" and up basket or am i better going off and using a holesaw? this sort of depends how my shaft will end and what i do with it for attaching a cutter
Cheers
Tim
It's simple: questions are inherently good. Your questions... not so much
2003 GUIII turbo intercooled 4.2 DX
2003 GUIII turbo intercooled 4.2 DX
check out speedwerx website.
Heard good things about there gear. Im looking into picking up a notcher and bender in the coming months and its either OPW or Speedwerx for me.....
There website is http://www.speedwerx.com.au/onlinecat.html
might be worth a look.....
screwy
Heard good things about there gear. Im looking into picking up a notcher and bender in the coming months and its either OPW or Speedwerx for me.....
There website is http://www.speedwerx.com.au/onlinecat.html
might be worth a look.....
screwy
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Opposite Lock Narellan, Lightforce Australia, Offroad Systems, Judd Panels, Townsend Signs, RDG Engineering, Central Safety Workwear
On a speedworx bender the die has to modified in order to do a 180 bend.
Dont think there is any decent ozzy made benders.
I know pro tools do a bender that is like a full on rip of the jd2 but only yellow. oh and they do one which is like a speed works rip.
http://www.pro-tools.com/ On this site they will also give you the plans to build one of there benders but you have to by the dies.
There is also JMR benders
http://www.vansantent.com/tube_bending_ ... bender.htm
Dont think there is any decent ozzy made benders.
I know pro tools do a bender that is like a full on rip of the jd2 but only yellow. oh and they do one which is like a speed works rip.
http://www.pro-tools.com/ On this site they will also give you the plans to build one of there benders but you have to by the dies.
There is also JMR benders
http://www.vansantent.com/tube_bending_ ... bender.htm
Sorry link for the bender plans.
http://www.pro-tools.com/200k.htm
http://www.pro-tools.com/200k.htm
I have had the speedwerx now have a jd2 #3.
The more I use the jd the more I find fault with the speedwerx.
Working in the horizontal plane is so much better.
As for notchers - I have done more offset notches then normal ones on my current buggy making the notch master the perfect choice.
I had a speedwerx notcher and hardly used it.
Spending a few hundred dollars extra on tools that save hours over lesser ones is well worth it in my book.
This is a PM I sent a while back about the 2:
JD2 VS Speedwerx.
There are about 10 reasons why I think the JD2 is better than the speedwerx.
the jd works in the horizontal plane which in itself is reason enough to choose it. when bending a main hoop with the speedwerx the hoop rises higher with each bend to the point you can easily loose a finger if it rotates when setting up the next bend. the sides of the speedwerx are really sharp.
its easier to pull a lever 10 times than pump a jack 65 times!
lining up the follower bar on the SW is a pain as it is another step and needs doing halfway through the bend which can upset the tube. the JD uses a simple pin change and its sweet.
the jd is really easy to get bends on the same plane as you can measure to the horizontal with a level (or use a $40 roller stand) and its far easier to get accurate - compared with the vertical on the SW as the vertical changes depending where the level is placed but is less obvious.
the build quality on the jd is 100%. It is something to be proud of.
the SW is what JD gives away (free plans on site). The jack keeps moving, the die moves across and chews the follower bar on the jack locator, ITS BLOODY SHARP I have drawn blood so many times on that bender (fresh cut by laser plate), the base is too thin and bends when bending 2" DOM. It is really hard to work out bend spring back as you need to release the jack - then the tube falls, then it needs re setting up etc. On the JD the spring back is release when there is no pressure on the bar. It is far easier to bend an amount with a lever - you can feel the amount Vs a jack.
the dies on the SW have a holding bracket welded to the top. on mine (both dies) thew were skew causing the tube to rotate and 2 bends would be put of plane even if set up correctly.
the jack started giving up after 1 truck and leaked.
the dies are more expensive,
you cannot bend 180 degrees (or stinger bars etc) which is a real pain
Its hard to move too as the unit is sharp and heavy and cannot be dissasembled easily. the jd has rounded corners and pulls apart with pins.
JD die change is 2 pins and a different u clamp, SW is unscrewing the die then trying to hold it whilst removing the pin (they are heavy as solid die 8"CLR) then replace and line up.
you can place bends closer together in different planes with the JD, the SW has the hole follower bar distance, or placing the tube in backwards.
there are probably more reasons that I cannot think of.
the only negatives to the JD are that is needs bolting down.
Its a little hard to see the bend start line when using 38mm tube (the lever bar is in the way)
To be frank, I sold the SW as I am building the buggy and I could not picture myself using it to build it (I work alone most of the time). The JD ended up costing me a further $2k and I justified it. There are heaps of guys on OL the love the SW, but I am far happier with what i have now.
You will love the JD
regards
Justin
The more I use the jd the more I find fault with the speedwerx.
Working in the horizontal plane is so much better.
As for notchers - I have done more offset notches then normal ones on my current buggy making the notch master the perfect choice.
I had a speedwerx notcher and hardly used it.
Spending a few hundred dollars extra on tools that save hours over lesser ones is well worth it in my book.
This is a PM I sent a while back about the 2:
JD2 VS Speedwerx.
There are about 10 reasons why I think the JD2 is better than the speedwerx.
the jd works in the horizontal plane which in itself is reason enough to choose it. when bending a main hoop with the speedwerx the hoop rises higher with each bend to the point you can easily loose a finger if it rotates when setting up the next bend. the sides of the speedwerx are really sharp.
its easier to pull a lever 10 times than pump a jack 65 times!
lining up the follower bar on the SW is a pain as it is another step and needs doing halfway through the bend which can upset the tube. the JD uses a simple pin change and its sweet.
the jd is really easy to get bends on the same plane as you can measure to the horizontal with a level (or use a $40 roller stand) and its far easier to get accurate - compared with the vertical on the SW as the vertical changes depending where the level is placed but is less obvious.
the build quality on the jd is 100%. It is something to be proud of.
the SW is what JD gives away (free plans on site). The jack keeps moving, the die moves across and chews the follower bar on the jack locator, ITS BLOODY SHARP I have drawn blood so many times on that bender (fresh cut by laser plate), the base is too thin and bends when bending 2" DOM. It is really hard to work out bend spring back as you need to release the jack - then the tube falls, then it needs re setting up etc. On the JD the spring back is release when there is no pressure on the bar. It is far easier to bend an amount with a lever - you can feel the amount Vs a jack.
the dies on the SW have a holding bracket welded to the top. on mine (both dies) thew were skew causing the tube to rotate and 2 bends would be put of plane even if set up correctly.
the jack started giving up after 1 truck and leaked.
the dies are more expensive,
you cannot bend 180 degrees (or stinger bars etc) which is a real pain
Its hard to move too as the unit is sharp and heavy and cannot be dissasembled easily. the jd has rounded corners and pulls apart with pins.
JD die change is 2 pins and a different u clamp, SW is unscrewing the die then trying to hold it whilst removing the pin (they are heavy as solid die 8"CLR) then replace and line up.
you can place bends closer together in different planes with the JD, the SW has the hole follower bar distance, or placing the tube in backwards.
there are probably more reasons that I cannot think of.
the only negatives to the JD are that is needs bolting down.
Its a little hard to see the bend start line when using 38mm tube (the lever bar is in the way)
To be frank, I sold the SW as I am building the buggy and I could not picture myself using it to build it (I work alone most of the time). The JD ended up costing me a further $2k and I justified it. There are heaps of guys on OL the love the SW, but I am far happier with what i have now.
You will love the JD
regards
Justin
Last edited by bru21 on Thu May 14, 2009 9:27 am, edited 1 time in total.
ADHD Racing would like to thank
Mrs Bru @ Sunshine Coast Developmental Physiotherapy - www.scdphysio.com.au , Ryano @ Fourbys www.generaltire.com.au Blitzkrieg Motorsport
Mrs Bru @ Sunshine Coast Developmental Physiotherapy - www.scdphysio.com.au , Ryano @ Fourbys www.generaltire.com.au Blitzkrieg Motorsport
Re: Tube benders
Are you sure ? When working out your figures are you just adding the cost of the parts and the cost that the US seller is quoting for freight and then converting it to Aussie ? If so you're way off as you will get another big sting when it lands here. When I imported my Pro Tools 105 with 2 die sets I was smashed another $600+/- for customs fees, duty and GST which nobody told me about, it was quite the nasty surprise.wrksux wrote: even with shipping its over 200 less than OPW are selling it for.
If I were going to go down that road again I would buy from Pete, at least you then get local support if something goes wrong.
Cheers, Jeremy (posting under Emma's login)
Ive made alot of dies (through work) and a few very big ones at that, I dont use them but they are for a company that specialises in tube bending etc. so its very possible and much cheaper if you have the time and facilitieswrksux wrote:300+ US each plus shipping or get them locally = pricey
or try and make some which is the route in going down
www.trailtrack4x4.com
yeah we have a toolroom at work and im a fitter by trade so shouldnt be too hardNuckingfuts wrote:Ive made alot of dies (through work) and a few very big ones at that, I dont use them but they are for a company that specialises in tube bending etc. so its very possible and much cheaper if you have the time and facilitieswrksux wrote:300+ US each plus shipping or get them locally = pricey
or try and make some which is the route in going down
It's simple: questions are inherently good. Your questions... not so much
2003 GUIII turbo intercooled 4.2 DX
2003 GUIII turbo intercooled 4.2 DX
as for import duty bender and one die is under the 1000 limit with shipping have already comfirmed with the retailer. im buying from a store in the USA when i get there in 2 weeks so duity wont be a problem and if the dollar fell the duty would still be minimal
It's simple: questions are inherently good. Your questions... not so much
2003 GUIII turbo intercooled 4.2 DX
2003 GUIII turbo intercooled 4.2 DX
im using a pro-tools 105HD and a protools hsn501I notcher, both great apart from striping threads on the notcher shaft, spoke to protools about it, first 1 they have ever heard about, i have a feeling a mate who borrowed has been doing things he should have been.
old shaft did over 3000 notches before it had problems, new one has done 500 and is still fine
old shaft did over 3000 notches before it had problems, new one has done 500 and is still fine
[b]86 Nissan MK Patrol[/b] - In bits atm, be back together soon
[b]MWB GQ Patrol[/b] - Being built, 383 chev, coilovers, etc
[url]http://www.kiwiracing.co.nz[/url]
[b]MWB GQ Patrol[/b] - Being built, 383 chev, coilovers, etc
[url]http://www.kiwiracing.co.nz[/url]
If over get them to mark it as a gift, then theres no duty on itwrksux wrote:as for import duty bender and one die is under the 1000 limit with shipping have already comfirmed with the retailer. im buying from a store in the USA when i get there in 2 weeks so duity wont be a problem and if the dollar fell the duty would still be minimal
'89 Hilux Single Cab - 3RZ, 35" Kreepy Krawlers, 4.88's, F & R Air lockers, RUF, Longfields, TG Highsteer, Highmount and no money
Just checked, it used to be if it was marked gift you don't pay import duty on itWooders wrote:Rubbish. Customs doesn't care if its a gift or not.Weiner wrote:If over get them to mark it as a gift, then theres no duty on it
'89 Hilux Single Cab - 3RZ, 35" Kreepy Krawlers, 4.88's, F & R Air lockers, RUF, Longfields, TG Highsteer, Highmount and no money
I have a speedwerx bender and I agree with everything bru21 says.
It bends tube for sure but I wish I had a JD2.
Steve.
It bends tube for sure but I wish I had a JD2.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Just a quick question about the JD model 3 hand operated bender is it able to bend 50mm OD 3.5mm wall thickness tube? would it be fairly easy or be pretty tough going. I was under the impression that the speedworks one would of been better than the JD cause it was hydrolic but this has now got me thinking
Thanks
Thanks
100249 M3B Round Tube Die Set - 2" (6.5-90) 90 .095" $295yamahasRsweet wrote:Just a quick question about the JD model 3 hand operated bender is it able to bend 50mm OD 3.5mm wall thickness tube? would it be fairly easy or be pretty tough going. I was under the impression that the speedworks one would of been better than the JD cause it was hydrolic but this has now got me thinking
Thanks
100250 M3B Round Tube Die Set - 2" (6.5-180) 180 .095" $345
I'm sure It will. I bend 13/4 .120 4130 which should be as stiff as mild 50mm 3.5 wall. I can do it by myself and I'm only wee!
ADHD Racing would like to thank
Mrs Bru @ Sunshine Coast Developmental Physiotherapy - www.scdphysio.com.au , Ryano @ Fourbys www.generaltire.com.au Blitzkrieg Motorsport
Mrs Bru @ Sunshine Coast Developmental Physiotherapy - www.scdphysio.com.au , Ryano @ Fourbys www.generaltire.com.au Blitzkrieg Motorsport
bender
have a read you might be able to get one at a good price http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic175361-30.php
www.teamecr.com.au
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