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Looking at an FJ40 shorty
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
Looking at an FJ40 shorty
G'day all
Im looking at getting an fj40 as a bit of a play around project car and maybe future comp vehicle, now the 40 im looking at seems to be in pretty good nick an has just had a v8 dropped into it. But im worried about the approach angle on these things as the front leaves stick out a fair way is there an easy way to fix this, well more a cheap way lol lookin 4 a cheap project dont care how long it takes. im also not familiar with Toyota's particularly the older ones is there anything to look out for.
Thx in advance
Im looking at getting an fj40 as a bit of a play around project car and maybe future comp vehicle, now the 40 im looking at seems to be in pretty good nick an has just had a v8 dropped into it. But im worried about the approach angle on these things as the front leaves stick out a fair way is there an easy way to fix this, well more a cheap way lol lookin 4 a cheap project dont care how long it takes. im also not familiar with Toyota's particularly the older ones is there anything to look out for.
Thx in advance
Muttley 88 GQ safari 4.2 diesel, front lokka, PTO winch, 33 muds. 3" susp/ superflex arms.
only ways to fix the approach angle for the front chassis are to either, fit bigger tyres, or to turn it into a coil front at great expense and trim @ even greater expense.
Its a great cheap project car if you dont start modifying the chassis, and the front leaves really dont stick out that far with larger tyres, and you soon get used to it, even if you are digging holes in the dirt with the front shackles.
There are heaps of things to look out for, the main one being rust, as the mechanicals are lots easier to repair. Certainly there are heaps getting around with v8s too, some are well done, but because its such an easy car to work on, plenty have the yobbo backyard v8 installation, which can look good, but still work poorly in so many ways.
Sam
Its a great cheap project car if you dont start modifying the chassis, and the front leaves really dont stick out that far with larger tyres, and you soon get used to it, even if you are digging holes in the dirt with the front shackles.
There are heaps of things to look out for, the main one being rust, as the mechanicals are lots easier to repair. Certainly there are heaps getting around with v8s too, some are well done, but because its such an easy car to work on, plenty have the yobbo backyard v8 installation, which can look good, but still work poorly in so many ways.
Sam
Don't stop me Just larger rubber here 35'shulsty wrote:Fit larger rubber and move the front diff forward, will increase approach angle. I run leaves and dont find the approach angle much hingerance.
http://www.fj40-2f-eti-locked-n-loaded.com
Advanced (HB) Intercoolers
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Advanced (HB) Intercoolers
http://advancedhbintercoolers.com
Twisted by Design
I've only hit the shackles the once, and when I did they just grinded up over the rock and I kept going. They look like more of a problem then what they are. Mine has the diff forward 1" from stock, and runs 35s.
Would like to do a shackle reversal one day to improve the approach angle, but its a fair bit of work.
Would like to do a shackle reversal one day to improve the approach angle, but its a fair bit of work.
2012 FJ Cruiser
1984 BJ42 - Stretched and Coilovered
1977 HJ45
1984 BJ42 - Stretched and Coilovered
1977 HJ45
Im here for the sausage!
Resident Terrorist
I hit mine often when attempting a decent step up. You learn to get around it by approaching at a bit of an angle to get one wheel climbing first.
From my understanding, shackle reversal is pointless while still spring under as you have to space the fixed hanger down a fair bit on the front to get castor right. Ends up being almost as low as the shackle was. Spacing down the fixed hanger isnt needed if you go spring over like the pic above.
If I'm wrong please let me know.
ps: for the record, I run 35s and extended front shackles.
From my understanding, shackle reversal is pointless while still spring under as you have to space the fixed hanger down a fair bit on the front to get castor right. Ends up being almost as low as the shackle was. Spacing down the fixed hanger isnt needed if you go spring over like the pic above.
If I'm wrong please let me know.
ps: for the record, I run 35s and extended front shackles.
Twisted by Design
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