Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Just a thought.
The arms look similar in design shape, the rover arm is approx 70mm longer than the GQ arm.
Rover's have no lack of flex in the front end, just looking at the arms you can see how much less the rover one's wrap around the diff (appaerntly the cause of flex issue in the front of a GQ).
Ever been done? Any major issues anyone knows of?
Will moving the diff forward 70mm cause major issues?

Thanks for any ideas, help and or info.
Tim

you will have to move your panhard mount forward too or it will get smashed by the diff centre, thats provided you get it back on it the first place. Then theres spring mounts ect.

But by using drop boxes it could be done easily providing the radius arms clear the steering linkage.

Had thought of drop boxes, only problem is its a shorty and dont really want to go the 4inches lift drop boxes are made for.
Otherwise yeah it would make it alot easier.
Pretty sure steering would clear as the rover arm runs in a very similar position.

run superior flex arms a lot less hassle and probably cost by the time your finished. i have them in mine and make a huge difference, its now the shocks that limit travel

steering will only just clear going 50mm forward, on full lock left my steering arm touches my panhard mount on the diff but only just,

the panhard smacks the diff on up travel, if the panhard mount was forward by 15mm it would just clear,

so to move your diff foward by 70mm you need to move your panhard mount forward by approx 90mm for clearance and your steering box will have to be moved forward about the same, unless you plan to run some funky A$$ bent steering arm (dont do this)

my front diff is forward 50mm with the home made 5 link

Ok, well im sure i've heard of 25mm spacers. So im huessing this is a safe amount to move the diff forward?
I have 2 inch lift in it now, if i use some 15mm spacers as well would i get away with using a drop box, split the difference, go back 50mm with the drop box mount, only goin forward 20mm. I can fab drop boxe's myself at zero cost. Modifying the front bush mounting points isn't a problem for me either. Just time, and some swearing.
Superior are are great product from what i've seen and heard, but, pair of rangie arms, $100. Fab work myself. Might not work. Like the idea of doing it myself.

14mm radius spacers puts the nut on the radius arm at the end of the pin. The panhard will just clear if stock, if adjustable the locknut will hit.

Is there enough space to move the chassis mount back 70 mm in a drop box without interfering with the mounting of the crss member?
I've just found out the rover and patrol arms are basically the same legnth, in relation to axel centre and chassis mounting point.
Its only the fact the bushes are that much closer together that gives a 70mm difference from chassis mounting point to the first bush. Maybe a smaller diameter housing, guessing on that one.

would you have to get a longer front tailshaft
and with 35s on my patrol with the snake arms in it
when i get full travel the tyre only cleers the bullbar by 50mm
so if you are gunna move it forward it may hit your bull bar and wont your springs look wonky they wont be pointing straight down anyway

I'm surprised more people have not thought of it...or if they have, they have been reluctant to mention it. After all, what Partol owner in their right mind would want rangie bits in a Nissan?

Is giving the best of both, rover's renound stanard flex, with the drive line stregnth rover people tend to try and gain from nissan or toyota parts..

pom300 wrote:would you have to get a longer front tailshaft
and with 35s on my patrol with the snake arms in it
when i get full travel the tyre only cleers the bullbar by 50mm
so if you are gunna move it forward it may hit your bull bar and wont your springs look wonky they wont be pointing straight down anyway

The post above you dose say that they are pretty much same length, so with the right adoptor plates or modifications on the diff housing brackets could be done, providing the tie rod clears the arms.

Micka wrote:I'm surprised more people have not thought of it...or if they have, they have been reluctant to mention it. After all, what Partol owner in their right mind would want rangie bits in a Nissan?

yep, tried it! too many issues, too much stuffing around and the pin centers are the same as cruiser. so you may as well put in 80 series ones.
but still not that much of an advantage as the bush to axle tube distance starts to come into play.

1MadEngineer wrote:

Micka wrote:I'm surprised more people have not thought of it...or if they have, they have been reluctant to mention it. After all, what Partol owner in their right mind would want rangie bits in a Nissan?

yep, tried it! too many issues, too much stuffing around and the pin centers are the same as cruiser. so you may as well put in 80 series ones.
but still not that much of an advantage as the bush to axle tube distance starts to come into play.

The 80's mounts to the chassis totally different causing more mods, more major one's, or going to a drop box. Pin centers? Between the 2 bushes on the diff housing?
I looked under a mate's 80's and looked to me to cause a lot more issue's than a rover arm.
Some more info on what you found would be graet?

Update, Had a spare set of patrol arms and i've since picked up a set of defender arms. Will be having a good look at how and if the rover one's will fit today.
Looking like i will be taking measurements of both and making up my own.
Anyway here's a side by side comparison of them.
Huge difference in pin centre's as you can see, but diff housing location for length is good. Might be an issue with size of the housing itself fiiting between the 2 pin centres.

jet-6 wrote:

is that a custom d,box?
looks awesome. was it hard to fab up? that might be the go instead of bolting those castor plates on. is it a copy of a snake racing or all your own work?

MONGREL wrote:Update, Had a spare set of patrol arms and i've since picked up a set of defender arms. Will be having a good look at how and if the rover one's will fit today.
Looking like i will be taking measurements of both and making up my own.
Anyway here's a side by side comparison of them.
Huge difference in pin centre's as you can see, but diff housing location for length is good. Might be an issue with size of the housing itself fiiting between the 2 pin centres.

it looks a little light duty when sitting next to the nissan one.

waandy wrote:

jet-6 wrote:

is that a custom d,box?
looks awesome. was it hard to fab up? that might be the go instead of bolting those castor plates on. is it a copy of a snake racing or all your own work?

Not mine(but i wish), is off the shelf from "unlimited"

http://www.unlimitedindustries.com.au/452.html

jet-6 wrote:

waandy wrote:

jet-6 wrote:

is that a custom d,box?
looks awesome. was it hard to fab up? that might be the go instead of bolting those castor plates on. is it a copy of a snake racing or all your own work?

Not mine(but i wish), is off the shelf from "unlimited"

http://www.unlimitedindustries.com.au/452.html

That is hideously COOL!!! A drop box system using an 80 series arm!!Gotta be better than the 3rds Production items!! What a simple, yet brilliant, idea.

i pretty much got those in my hilux (arms are more custom tho). All from Unlimited



Im keen to see how they go, should be testing soon

Im not sure if its the colour but they look very cool

The unlimited arms use the 80's chassis mountng, although the pin centre's at the housing are unchanged as far as i know. So not much is gained.
The rover arm is a little thicker, remember too the rover's are pretty heavy 4b, stregnth wouldn't bethe issue.
The main problem i have found is driver's side arm sits right againts the pumkin of the housing, hence the need for out of round shape, and why superior flex, have the two different styles side to side.

BushTuckerNed,
Are those arms upside down?

nah there full custom ones.

but its basically a control arm flip

BushTuckerNed wrote:nah there full custom ones.

but its basically a control arm flip

Is your truck lifted quite a bit to use a flipped arm design? They look good, let us know how they go.

Found one of my rear arms was snapped yesterday, so they took priority atm. Intended on making some stronger one's anyways so this just forced me to do it.
Thought i'd post em up. Kinda show's im not just talking Sh!t and do have a go myself.

I dont know why someone hasnt already just fabbed some super strong threaded pipe to screw onto the thread of patrol arms. And put johnny joints/eyelt bush's on the end. It will lengthen your front arms and allow cruiser type eylets for easy up and down movement and the thread will also allow twist. Just have to easily custom make some drop box's that sit back further.

Then the only problem is shocks.

But having said that. Have you seen the new cruiser self disconnecting sway bars. Im definately going to fab some for my truck. If I do it well enough I might sell them as a bolt on system.

Where the sway bars bolt on, (instead of using dissconnectable sway bar pins) They use a piston driven shaft and oil. The front left side in joined via a pipe to the left rear piston. As to go around a corner and body roll accures the pressure in each is similar and cancel each other out causing them to act normal.

But when 1 wheel wants to tuck causing pressure and the other wants to drop. The oil is distributed into the 1 with the least amount of pressure. If that makes sence.

Put 1 on each side to make sure full travel is acheived and maybe a beefed up sway bar and going 5 link front.

Here, think of the possibilties... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a0JEIjVBRC8