Outer Limits 4x4 Board

just a quick on folks

i need to replace the seal between the transfer and gearbox on a 75 series. I realise that you have to pull the transfer completely apart to do the job, exactly how difficult is that? I'm pretty handy with the spanners but gearboxes are the last great challenge. is it as simple as put it back together the way it came apart or will if fark it up if i dont torque something exactly right or use some special gearbox rebuilders trick.

Are there any special tools required other than a torque wrench? do i need a gear puller?

Also once i get access to the gearbox output shaft and pull out the old seal i intend to inspect the shaft to see if the sealing surface is stuffed. if it is, how hard is it to fix? can you use a speedy sleeve? or does the shaft need to come out and how hard is that to do? I'm guessing that if the seal has worn a groove in the shaft that just replacing the seal won't fix the problem for long.

any advice would be great.

MILO

If you get stuck I can post you a disc with the manual for H41, H42, H50, and H55F transmissions and transfer. Just email me on cpe351@yahoo.com.au

Also have electronic versions of 1HZ - 1HD-T engine manual and
1984 to 1990 Landcruiser Body and chassis Manual

I'm pretty sure if you do some searching these manuals are pretty readily avail. for download at a few sites.

awesome mate. if you're in the blueys i could probably just pick it up

Any reason you dont just fit an equaliser tube? That seal will just leak again down the track.

RAY185 wrote:Any reason you dont just fit an equaliser tube? That seal will just leak again down the track.

thanks mate i have tried that but no good

equaliser tubes won't help where the oil is being transferred from the gearbox to tcase (from what i gather normally the tcase is getting pressurized and pumps oil thge other way) Fitting the equalizer tube in my case means that the transfer case is always running over full and leaks past the PTO output shaft seals, rear output seals, up the speedo cable and so on. This is because the transfer filler is lower than the gearbox filler and to have the gearbox at the appropriate level means the tcase must be over filled. I know this because i have fitted the equalizer tube and it is still forcing oil out past every farking orifice onthe tcase.

As for the inter seal leaking again, that is why i am asking if i should or if i can repair any damage to the seal surface on the shaft. If i do this then it should be good for another x hundred thou kilometers. They should only leak again if you do a half arsed job which i hate at the best of times.

rockcrawler31 wrote:awesome mate. if you're in the blueys i could probably just pick it up

I'm at Hazo but be workin in Penrith till 2.00pm 2 moro. You can either make an arrangement to meet me somewhere some time or just email me you address.


The disc is burnt and waiting, let me know what you want to do.

did you have a thread a few weeks ago about this problem?

Has the transfer case ever been seperated from the gearbox before? If they left a bolt out (because it stripped or whatever) then this can cause your problem.

Someone on the forum had this problem, replaced the bolt and all fixed.

Yeah fair enough. I didnt realise it was leaking the other way around. Equaliser tube definately wont help there.

I think Shadow might be talking about me (although I dont recall posting about it on here). I bought a second hand box and transfer with reduction gears. It felt tight and I was pressed for time to dismantle to check condition so I fitted it up as is. Was losing oil from the box into the transfer pretty fast. I pulled the transfer down and found the previous owner (well his mechanic) had left 2 internal bolts (inner transfer case housing to gearbox) out. These holes are open into the gearbox so oil was coming through from there. After about 6 deliveries from Toyota I finally ended up with the right bolts and put it back together with no more dramas.

Like Shadow says, if your transfer has been apart recently, this could be your problem. Otherwise the seal may have popped out of position. Rather unlikely IMHO. As you know, if the seal is worn its way more likely to push oil from transfer to box than box to transfer.

I have pics of the inside of the case to show the missing bolts I'm talking about. Let me know if you want me to throw them up.

RAY185 wrote:Yeah fair enough. I didnt realise it was leaking the other way around. Equaliser tube definately wont help there.

I think Shadow might be talking about me (although I dont recall posting about it on here). I bought a second hand box and transfer with reduction gears. It felt tight and I was pressed for time to dismantle to check condition so I fitted it up as is. Was losing oil from the box into the transfer pretty fast. I pulled the transfer down and found the previous owner (well his mechanic) had left 2 internal bolts (inner transfer case housing to gearbox) out. These holes are open into the gearbox so oil was coming through from there. After about 6 deliveries from Toyota I finally ended up with the right bolts and put it back together with no more dramas.

Like Shadow says, if your transfer has been apart recently, this could be your problem. Otherwise the seal may have popped out of position. Rather unlikely IMHO. As you know, if the seal is worn its way more likely to push oil from transfer to box than box to transfer.

I have pics of the inside of the case to show the missing bolts I'm talking about. Let me know if you want me to throw them up.

thanks guys.

yes it was me who posted abut this two months ago. i put in the hose as a temp fix to get me home. interesting about the bolts. the tcase has been out before i bought it for a recondition, but htat was ages ago and it has only started doing this recently. i'd be keen to see those pics of the bolts though.

There are only 4 bolts that hold the inner case to the gearbox. I was missing 2. You can see the other 2 in the pic. One of them is external to the case on the left, the other is just below the idler shaft hole.

no "special" tools required unless you are replacing bearings. you might need a 3 leg puller to get the input shaft end bearing and/or the PTO gear off.

thanks dunce. Other than making sure you put it all together in the same order as it came off how hard is it to reassemble properly?

I down loaded the full 115 page manual from a link i found on ih8mud il see if i can find the link and post it here and in the tech section

rockcrawler31 wrote:thanks dunce. Other than making sure you put it all together in the same order as it came off how hard is it to reassemble properly?

use grease to stick the idler gear thrust washers to the case halves so it doesn't fall in.

you need use the gasket between the case halves or the output shaft preload will be wrong. (ie try to save the gasket) alternatively you can ditch the gasket and use RTV/FIPG but then you have to set up the output shaft bearing preload again ..

good idea but not mandatory to put fresh seals, gaskets and bearings through it, the kit is $200ish, maybe cheaper off ebay. you will need a press or some long pullers to get the output shaft bearings off.


it is a LOT easier if you have a hoist or pit, it can be done with the vehicle on the ground, it's just uncomfortable.

drain the transfer AND the gearbox before you start disassembly, otherwise when you pull the idler shaft out, it will drain the gearbox all over you.

for the job you want to do there is probably no need to pull the front half of the case off the gearbox.

get new nuts at least.

lokka wrote:I down loaded the full 115 page manual from a link i found on ih8mud il see if i can find the link and post it here and in the tech section

Found it here in bible heres the link its the 8th file down has all the boxes and transfers in it with all the info you will ever need
http://forums.bauchan.org/portal/downlo ... cid=17&p=2

lokka wrote:I down loaded the full 115 page manual from a link i found on ih8mud il see if i can find the link and post it here and in the tech section

It's in the bible

Dunbdunce thats some good info have you ever seen a transfer with a busted locking collar for the 4wd activation ???

Looks like ive busted mine through abuse il be finding out in the next week or so how bad ive damaged it as its making some harsh ratcheting sounds while in 4wd ...

I thought these 60's were near on unbreakeable ive managed to do a rear diff (busted planetary gears) and now busted the 4wd lock up in the transfer maby those front wheel burnouts were just to much for the old dunga

joel HJ60 wrote:

lokka wrote:I down loaded the full 115 page manual from a link i found on ih8mud il see if i can find the link and post it here and in the tech section

It's in the bible

Yep my mistake i must have found the link here and not on mud

lokka wrote:Dunbdunce thats some good info have you ever seen a transfer with a busted locking collar for the 4wd activation ???

Looks like ive busted mine through abuse il be finding out in the next week or so how bad ive damaged it as its making some harsh ratcheting sounds while in 4wd ...

I thought these 60's were near on unbreakeable ive managed to do a rear diff (busted planetary gears) and now busted the 4wd lock up in the transfer maby those front wheel burnouts were just to much for the old dunga

nice, you may have broken the teeth off the collar or the front output dog.

nothing is unbreakable if you don't have a degree of mechanical sympathy

If I were you I'd be looking for a complete 2nd hand transfer for parts or to swap on whole, if you have shredded parts, wear debris will have circulated through the whole case and the damage will extend well beyond the broken parts.

dumbdunce wrote:

lokka wrote:Dunbdunce thats some good info have you ever seen a transfer with a busted locking collar for the 4wd activation ???

Looks like ive busted mine through abuse il be finding out in the next week or so how bad ive damaged it as its making some harsh ratcheting sounds while in 4wd ...

I thought these 60's were near on unbreakeable ive managed to do a rear diff (busted planetary gears) and now busted the 4wd lock up in the transfer maby those front wheel burnouts were just to much for the old dunga

nice, you may have broken the teeth off the collar or the front output dog.

nothing is unbreakable if you don't have a degree of mechanical sympathy

If I were you I'd be looking for a complete 2nd hand transfer for parts or to swap on whole, if you have shredded parts, wear debris will have circulated through the whole case and the damage will extend well beyond the broken parts.

Yep im hearing ya its my first tojo and i wanted to push it hard and test its threshhold

I have 2 spare cases one on an auto and one on a 4speed with the fairy O/D so spares are a plenty

lokka wrote:

dumbdunce wrote:

lokka wrote:Dunbdunce thats some good info have you ever seen a transfer with a busted locking collar for the 4wd activation ???

Looks like ive busted mine through abuse il be finding out in the next week or so how bad ive damaged it as its making some harsh ratcheting sounds while in 4wd ...

I thought these 60's were near on unbreakeable ive managed to do a rear diff (busted planetary gears) and now busted the 4wd lock up in the transfer maby those front wheel burnouts were just to much for the old dunga

nice, you may have broken the teeth off the collar or the front output dog.

nothing is unbreakable if you don't have a degree of mechanical sympathy

If I were you I'd be looking for a complete 2nd hand transfer for parts or to swap on whole, if you have shredded parts, wear debris will have circulated through the whole case and the damage will extend well beyond the broken parts.

Yep im hearing ya its my first tojo and i wanted to push it hard and test its threshhold

I have 2 spare cases one on an auto and one on a 4speed with the fairy O/D so spares are a plenty

cool, go for the one off the auto, it might have 2.3:1 low range and roller bearings on the output gears - smoother, quieter and better crawl!

the fairey isn't great for hardcore stuff, if you shredded a stock transfer you'll destroy the fairey first time out.

dumbdunce wrote:

lokka wrote:

dumbdunce wrote:

lokka wrote:Dunbdunce thats some good info have you ever seen a transfer with a busted locking collar for the 4wd activation ???

Looks like ive busted mine through abuse il be finding out in the next week or so how bad ive damaged it as its making some harsh ratcheting sounds while in 4wd ...

I thought these 60's were near on unbreakeable ive managed to do a rear diff (busted planetary gears) and now busted the 4wd lock up in the transfer maby those front wheel burnouts were just to much for the old dunga

nice, you may have broken the teeth off the collar or the front output dog.

nothing is unbreakable if you don't have a degree of mechanical sympathy

If I were you I'd be looking for a complete 2nd hand transfer for parts or to swap on whole, if you have shredded parts, wear debris will have circulated through the whole case and the damage will extend well beyond the broken parts.

Yep im hearing ya its my first tojo and i wanted to push it hard and test its threshhold

I have 2 spare cases one on an auto and one on a 4speed with the fairy O/D so spares are a plenty

cool, go for the one off the auto, it might have 2.3:1 low range and roller bearings on the output gears - smoother, quieter and better crawl!

the fairey isn't great for hardcore stuff, if you shredded a stock transfer you'll destroy the fairey first time out.

Yep thats the plan dunce to use the auto transfer hopefully its the lower ratio ...

To get the transfer off will i only need the 3 leg puller or may i need other special tools i got most of the gear i need i think ...

As for the fairy its not going to be used and will go in the sell off pile soon as i have a good stcak of bits i need to offload soon ....

rockcrawler31 sorry for the hijack man but saves me staring a new thread askin preaty much the same stuff as u did man ...

not a problem lokka

dunce - from your post i'm guessing you can access the offending seal with the second half still on the gearbox

and new nuts? which nuts do you mean?

I have sourced a gasket kit off ebay for 90 bucks. if i replace the gasket with the new one is it okay to assume the preload will be fine? also the ebay folks suggested using some toyota gasket silicone, will rtv blue be fine on the gaskets instead? and i'm guessing both sides of the gasket