Outer Limits 4x4 Board

My sealing surfaces on driveshaft and hub on zook are pitted and are not gonna seal, can you fill in the pits with liquid steel or knead-it so the seals can run on it smoothly? Not sure if this is a stupid question or not, but worth the ask.

use a speedy sleeve get the from you local bearing reseller

Modified Toy wrote:use a speedy sleeve get the from you local bearing reseller

x2

Thought of that, apparently you cant get em for these sizes. Will give it a go anyway incase guy is full of crap.

Speedy sleeves are crap and are a very temporary repair.

Dont think i have much choice other than replacing whole components. For the cost of replacing what i need, i could buy two complete hilux axles, bloody zook stuff is expensive as.

you can ge the area Ground, Chromed (or metal sprayed), Then ground back to size, commonly known as GCG. we get it done on pump/motor shafts, spools etc when we can't get a new item. not sure how big the area is you need done but to give an idea an area about 50mm x 25mm is usually about $250 for us.

Not owning a Zook, pics would help to show the areas you want to repair

What we usually do is get the area machined and (if possible) get a sleeve made up that is thicker than a speedy sleeve usually about 3mm (but that is truck stuff) The problem with speedy sleeves is they are too thin and over heat and before you know it you have the same problem you started with. The best way to use a speedy sleeve is to get some sort of epoxy to fill the groove and then put the sleeve over the epoxy. This will help dissipate the heat.

SIMMO84 wrote:Speedy sleeves are crap and are a very temporary repair.

+1

If you HAVE to use them, a small amount of quickmetal under the sleeve can sometimes help.

Something i have done on other stuff with worn seal surfaces (in despiration), is make a small spacer shim for the seal to reposition the seal lips on a fresh part of the shaft, usually with a slightly shorter seal, if room allows. Proper repair or replace is a better option.

Thanks for replys guys.

Unfortunately offsetting the seal isnt an option as the whole surface is grooved and pitted. I dont know what the hell happened, but all the wearing surfaces in the hub are like that including inside the CV.

I will see if i can get speedy sleeves, we use special bonding compound at work when we use em on crankshafts so i will use that on the shafts.

SIMMO84 wrote:What we usually do is get the area machined and (if possible) get a sleeve made up that is thicker than a speedy sleeve usually about 3mm (but that is truck stuff) The problem with speedy sleeves is they are too thin and over heat and before you know it you have the same problem you started with. The best way to use a speedy sleeve is to get some sort of epoxy to fill the groove and then put the sleeve over the epoxy. This will help dissipate the heat.

On the speedy sleeve kit I used on my rear output flange thats the instructions they gave. Sand back the area and fill with metal fill then fit the sleeve over the top. Has held fine for over a year so far.

SIMMO84 wrote:Speedy sleeves are crap and are a very temporary repair.

-1.

speedisleeves are fantastic and will last as long or longer than the original component if installed correctly. correct preparation is the key. using an epoxy or MEKP adhesive filler beneath can help.

they are available for all kinds of sizes, should be able to get one to suit.

did you drive any salt water areas in Tassie PJ?...This might have got into your diff housing and caused the damage....

Yeh did drive in salt water. Its also eaten out my brass bush inside the hub stub too.
Found today that you can buy speedy sleeves, but theyre $50 each, combining that with farked CV and bush and its turning expensive.

The trick I was told with speedi sleeves is that the bonding agent must be a metal based liquid for he heat disapation reasons listed above. Otherwise they can burn through. A ceramic or plastic type of epoxy will not do it. So one of the metal repair agents would be the go.