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buying a 40
Posted: Mon Apr 26, 2004 7:12 pm
by 40 lover
hey,
16 years old, about to get P's,
wanting a 40 (soft top, diesel, manual (4/5 speed) power steering), wondering about prices
3-4" suspension lift, 2" body lift(don't want to go any higher in body lift, because of trouble with extending steering rods and what not
2" spacers
35-37" tires, either BFG muds or goodyear MTR's
maybe take 1 or 2 leafs out of pack, for extra flex
maybye spring over instead of other lift choice at top of paragraph with flat springs at rear
open for suggestions, critisism, tips
Posted: Mon Apr 26, 2004 7:30 pm
by bad_religion_au
how much wheeling you done?
i'd say buy a stock 40, or maybe 2 inch lifted, and wheel it and then see about the mods.
that way you get used to top heavy handling, stopping a brick on big wheels, and all the rest of the joys of owning a 40... not to discourage you, just start small and build up to it. and you don't waste money on a mod you won't use... for instance if your running purely deep thick mud, MTR's may not suit as well as a set of boggers for offroad.
good bj40 around 4-5 grand from what i seen, you'll pay more for 5 speed, and power steering.
and in some places you'll get asked for more if it's a soft top... if this is the case find a nice hard top, and unbolt the top (don't know if you knew that all the hard tops = soft top with spare roof) and that way you got better weatherproofing as an option.
get disks if you can, watch out for any "rewiring" as wiring faults are time consuming to track... look for oil leaks, grease leaking out of the free wheeling hubs, RUST... everywhere, bottom of doors, sills, footwell, back of tub, under rear doors, firewall, cowl, windscreen surround. and if it isn't leaking from the engine or transfer case check the oil level... good idea to check the oil in transfer/ transmission and both diffs anyway, as 1 you wanna know if it's actually had oil, and 2 it helps to know that you can get the fill plugs off before you buy it and run into that headache
Posted: Mon Apr 26, 2004 7:44 pm
by Jonathan Ferguson
Fully Sick
For mine, I'd like to get $8,000 ~ $9,000 as a minimum. - But I have to get a new Car first.
Posted: Mon Apr 26, 2004 8:49 pm
by Eddywelder
there is a cheap one with v8 power at a car yard near my place in st marys nsw price is $2999 though it is a hardtop.....looks ok when I have driven past...maybe get it cheaper for cash price..
Posted: Mon Apr 26, 2004 9:37 pm
by bj42turbo
Good choice.........Go the Forty
Cheers Dazz
Posted: Mon Apr 26, 2004 9:42 pm
by bj42turbo
Jonathan Ferguson wrote:Fully Sick For mine, I'd like to get $8,000 ~ $9,000 as a minimum. - But I have to get a new Car first.
That the first pic I have seen that dosent involve you driving through and covered in mud, Looks very nice. Seeing a pic of a forty just makes me warm and fuzzy inside.
Cheers Dazz
P.S. what happened to the ih8mud trip to toolangi
Posted: Mon Apr 26, 2004 10:41 pm
by Jonathan Ferguson
P.S. what happened to the ih8mud trip to toolangi
Nothing, Unless someone has stolen it.
Would like to go, But the BJ40 is far too unreliable. - Would hate to inconveniance anyone.
Re: buying a 40
Posted: Tue Apr 27, 2004 12:01 am
by dumbdunce
40 lover wrote:hey,
16 years old, about to get P's,
wanting a 40 (soft top, diesel, manual (4/5 speed) power steering), wondering about prices
3-4" suspension lift, 2" body lift(don't want to go any higher in body lift, because of trouble with extending steering rods and what not
2" spacers
35-37" tires, either BFG muds or goodyear MTR's
maybe take 1 or 2 leafs out of pack, for extra flex
maybye spring over instead of other lift choice at top of paragraph with flat springs at rear
open for suggestions, critisism, tips
man, I wish I had ten grand to spend on a truck when I was 16!
you'll be looking at $4000 - $6000 for your truck, plus easily t same again for those modifications esp if you go springover and depending on how much work you can do yourself, but like the other blokes have said, buy a stocker and drive it, get it off road and learn how to drive off road before you start getting stuck into mods. also talk to the guys on this board and find out what mods are legal, what will require an engineer's report, and what is just out, full stop. you will never be able to get wheel spacers approved for on-road use, for example. also, other modifications like a winch and diff locks might be better value that jumping in to suspension and wheels/tyres straight away.
cheers
Brian
40
Posted: Tue Apr 27, 2004 1:53 pm
by DIRTY ROCK STAR
GO and buy one already done up, or atleast already half done makes it much cheaper for you.
and diesel sounds a winner my 2F costs a fortune in fuel.
mate look at insurance for your age too, unless you go without and dont crash or put it in your folks name??
sounds like a good choice though.
or consider buying a shitter, driving it hard, then sell it and buy or build a done up one.
the mods you are after you are looking at $$.
oh and be prepared for other road users including cyclists to hoon past you.
Posted: Tue Apr 27, 2004 2:25 pm
by bad_religion_au
Jonathan Ferguson wrote:P.S. what happened to the ih8mud trip to toolangi
Nothing, Unless someone has stolen it.
Would like to go, But the BJ40 is far too unreliable. - Would hate to inconveniance anyone.
it's unreliable and you want max $$$ for it
. that's one school of thinking. nice lookin truck though
don't worry about the reliability, if there's an inch of water anywhere i guarantee you my 2f will spit it a few times, all part of the fun.
lets go, i'm sure between us we can get all the rigs home again... dazz rebuilt his remember.
Posted: Tue Apr 27, 2004 6:22 pm
by bj42turbo
bad_religion_au wrote:Jonathan Ferguson wrote:P.S. what happened to the ih8mud trip to toolangi
Nothing, Unless someone has stolen it.
Would like to go, But the BJ40 is far too unreliable. - Would hate to inconveniance anyone.
lets go, i'm sure between us we can get all the rigs home again... dazz rebuilt his remember.
yeah I concur