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Making brake lines?
Posted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 1:41 pm
by Hulksta
Looking to here from those that have done there own brake lines before...
What pipe do you use to make the lines, and where would i get some?
Does the tube need to be double flared?
Any tricks/tips for someone that hasnt done it b4?
Posted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 2:32 pm
by berad
enzed/pirtek etc
Yes it does need to be double flared.
Posted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 4:12 pm
by ozy1
head down to your local brake specialist they will sell you the brake line tube, and they may even have the flare tools required,
its not that hard, you may just need to get yourself a tube bender
Re: Making brake lines?
Posted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 4:24 pm
by A1
Hulksta wrote:Looking to here from those that have done there own brake lines before...
What pipe do you use to make the lines, and where would i get some?
Does the tube need to be double flared?
Any tricks/tips for someone that hasnt done it b4?
I bought tube from Toronto Brake service .. they also do ADR approved braided lines ....
First choice brake supplies at Cardiff also sell tube etc and nuts ...clips etc etc
for a decent line and a rig that has a V8 pushn it along I would make sure to use a proper double flaring tool
Dan
Posted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 5:44 pm
by Slunnie
I just got the hard line from BrakePro. It must be a double flare, I just got the tool from Blackwoods, likewise with the bender. I can recall the dia of the lines. Also get a pipe cutter, it makes flaring easier with a good end on it.
Posted: Fri Jun 19, 2009 12:39 am
by Athol
All brake line flares must be double flares.
Under the NSW RTA COP, copper lines are permitted on the body or chassis, provided that they are adequately supported. On suspension components such as axle housings, it must be steel bundy tubing. Notably, some steel bundy tubing comes with a copper coloured rust-preventative coating...
Copper is much easier to flare, and is preferred by most brake places. That doesn't make it legal...
Flexible hoses should carry a standards marking. There's ADR 7, an SAE J number, FMVSS number and a few other rarer overseas standards. Even most genuine Japanese hoses are marked with an SAE J number.
Athol
Posted: Fri Jun 19, 2009 7:25 pm
by roblrc
There is no way I would ever use copper for brake lines it will not withstand the line pressure. Most steel bundy tube used for for brake lines is copper coated (resists corrosion) and depending on the type of flare nut used will dictate the type of flair. Most reputable brake places will make steel brake lines for you at a reasonable price, just take the old ones in as a sample.
Posted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 8:10 am
by brad-chevlux
roblrc wrote:There is no way I would ever use copper for brake lines it will not withstand the line pressure. Most steel bundy tube used for for brake lines is copper coated (resists corrosion) and depending on the type of flare nut used will dictate the type of flair. Most reputable brake places will make steel brake lines for you at a reasonable price, just take the old ones in as a sample.
or a piece of fence wire bent to the correct shape to use a template. (if the line is custom or the old line is damaged to much)
Posted: Wed Jun 24, 2009 1:45 am
by Hulksta
Thanks guys, very helpful
Ive been trying to find a decent double flaring tool but have had no luck here in oz (they sell a great hydraulic one in the states)
BTW are the nissan lines metric or imperial?
Posted: Wed Jun 24, 2009 6:34 pm
by Slunnie
Hulksta wrote:Thanks guys, very helpful
Ive been trying to find a decent double flaring tool but have had no luck here in oz (they sell a great hydraulic one in the states)
BTW are the nissan lines metric or imperial?
Blackwoods
For the lift of me I cant think of the manufacturers name, but for non-production work its not a bad unit at all.
Posted: Wed Jun 24, 2009 8:00 pm
by fester2au
roblrc wrote:There is no way I would ever use copper for brake lines it will not withstand the line pressure. .
Copper line is quite a common occurence in England. Plently of off the shelf kits sold ready made to length with fitting and just need shaping. Don't know if there are different grades of copper for the application.
Posted: Wed Jun 24, 2009 8:21 pm
by Mick.
Hulksta wrote:Thanks guys, very helpful
Ive been trying to find a decent double flaring tool but have had no luck here in oz (they sell a great hydraulic one in the states)
BTW are the nissan lines metric or imperial?
If you need a double flaring tool set I have one you can borrow. I wont be needing mine for a while yet.
Cheers Mick.
Posted: Thu Jun 25, 2009 8:05 am
by tuf045
this is what i use,
http://www.tridon.com.au/Products/Produ ... 21&P=68813 i don't think it can be beaten for quality.
Posted: Thu Jun 25, 2009 8:13 am
by bru21
Make sure its bundy tube (would like rolled up paper from the end - although you can't see it with the eye)
99% of flaring tools are useless, plain and simple.
Try and borrow / buy a good one - I have bought 3 and only my third one works, and had borrowed 2 previously that also struggled to work!
The pipe slips in the clamp with the poor ones.
Posted: Thu Jun 25, 2009 8:13 am
by PJ.zook
How much did you pick up the Tridon one for?
Posted: Thu Jun 25, 2009 6:06 pm
by fester2au
What are these better flaring tools worth and how many flares do you need to do. Might be cheaper option to just get the tube bend it to shape then get brake or hydraulic place to put nuts on and flare.
Posted: Thu Jun 25, 2009 6:51 pm
by Mick.
fester2au wrote:What are these better flaring tools worth and how many flares do you need to do. Might be cheaper option to just get the tube bend it to shape then get brake or hydraulic place to put nuts on and flare.
I think I paid about $400 for mine from Snap On about 10 years ago. Between me and a couple of mates we have made brake lines for about 5 different vehicles ranging form 4wds to hot rods and we have never had any dramas with a flare failing.
There are a lot of dodgy ones out there that are plain usless.
Cheers Mick.
Posted: Fri Jun 26, 2009 8:20 am
by tuf045
PJ.zook wrote:How much did you pick up the Tridon one for?
not sure because it would be nearly ten years that i have had it. from memory if think i payed around $550