Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Guys,

I have been doing a bit of reading about the axles and their weaknesses. I want to know the life expectancy of stock axles with 35s and a somewhat cautious right foot?

Trying to weigh up if it is worth taking the plunge if I am going to have to fork out 3K+ just to make sure I can get home after a trip.

I have previously owned a Pajero on 35s and a Jeep Cherokee(another weak axle) on 30s, and have yet to suffer any breakages.

Thanks

Even being careful they may last for months or break in the first outing, GQ or 80LC diffs would be a wise upgrade if you plan on running 35's for any length of time.

If you're careful they will be fine, just control wheelspin very quickly and foot down wont be the way to go. Wheelspin will kill them pretty quickly. I wouldn't have any expectations to not break them though as it'll eventually happen.

These break enough on 29's though.

There is no "likely" in the equation, it will happen

I must admit i broke the pins in the diffs before the axles so havent yet broke an axle (on 35's).
I have just gone back to a rangey and have put lockers in it so will see how long tha axles last now.

cloughy wrote:There is no "likely" in the equation, it will happen

X2, just be prepared for some trackside repairs. But in saying that I've been on club trips with std axles and 35's and they have survived, then break on the next outing on the first hill

Trav

How likey are you to get up in the morning and go and take a leak? it's about the same probability that your diffs and/or axles will fail.

i run upgraded centers and
havnt broke axle yet running 35x13.4x16s or 34"tsl's
with them but
blew a few diff heads and cv's before diff head upgrade
but think cv's may break before axles
i like the
standard axle as a controlled weak link
but next on list heat shrink my
cv's and peg the crown wheel with
custom hd axles
Q.does arb guarantee bigger tires than standard?
option run toyota surf lsd's centers f/r and bigger bearings
onto l/r diff head and custom toyota axles
may work out cheaper than detroit/arb's
and easy to source and strong
or Imo upgraded 24spline l/r axles and Detroits f/r lockers
as they guarantee up to 38" tire for l/r

TRobbo wrote:How likey are you to get up in the morning and go and take a leak? it's about the same probability that your diffs and/or axles will fail.

Yep, because even if you don;t take a leak in the morning, your bound to at some stage in the day

two words : BREAD STICKS ..

upgrade.. only gets messy with 35s trust me

SWAMPRR wrote:two words : BREAD STICKS ..

upgrade.. only gets messy with 35s trust me

Breadsticks sounds like a solid upgrade for rover diffs...

theres no question bout it, the axles and diffs are weak as piss, ive busted 4 centres so far and ive only got 32's and ive had the car since november.
but i do have a question, if get my hands on some 4.1 crown and pinion wheels, besides the cvs, would that help lesson the load on everything else running 35's????
im gettin lotsa monies from tax so i wona set up for 35's,
and also bout how much would i expect to pay for set of front and rear 4.1's????
cheers fellas

mrbenwithag wrote:theres no question bout it, the axles and diffs are weak as piss, ive busted 4 centres so far and ive only got 32's and ive had the car since november.
but i do have a question, if get my hands on some 4.1 crown and pinion wheels, besides the cvs, would that help lesson the load on everything else running 35's????
im gettin lotsa monies from tax so i wona set up for 35's,
and also bout how much would i expect to pay for set of front and rear 4.1's????
cheers fellas

might pay to peg 4.1/4.7 as more flex in crown wheel
and upgrade centers as changing ratio means
you will be pulling more revs
which will put more load on carriers

Even if you drive like a grownup on 32's you'll break em, 35's and a bit of fun... stock up on axles!

Ive had mine for 2 and half years its got 31s havent broken any axels yet and i drive mine pretty hard

wolfengo wrote: and i drive mine pretty hard

If you have standard Diffs and Axles....you will break the diff centre before an axle. Generally speaking you will start breaking axles after you put uprated diff's and or lockers in.

The Crown Wheel and pinion is not the problem it's the hemisphere!

Excessive wheel spin tends to weld the spider gears to the shaft in the hemisphere...the shaft then spins in the hemisphere....this elongates the hemisphere.....the spider gears no longer mesh properly...all hell breaks loose. if you are lucky the hemisphere will smash into pieces....if you are unlucky the shaft will punch a hold in your diff casing.

The el-cheapo way of getting more life from the diff is to weld the shaft to the hemisphere, this will stop the shaft from spinning in the hemisphere.

I broke 2 rear diff's with only 31 inch tyres. Then bought a Maxi Drive.

I never broke an axle.

From what I've seen anything can and will break in there. From what I've seen on the trail, more axles go than hemispheres, but I suspect it may depend on how you're inducing the failure.