Outer Limits 4x4 Board

ok guys, the rear hub seals are leaking and im looking at doing the seals and bearings this weekend.

ive got the workshop manual for it and its fairly descriptive

my questiuon is,

do you need the big socket to release the hub? i know the fornt needs a really long shank socket, but does the rear need that aswell? assume it does.

if ya do need it what are they worth or can ya hire them?

any little tricks to it

was gonna change the bearings over since im in there anyway, was gonna go genuine but they will more than likely charge a fortune for em

can ya recomend any good bearing brands? just use high temp bearing grease? not some special grease that will give me 15kw extra or something silly?

will definantly go genuine seals.

Is easy mate, done mates 60 couple of months ago. The factory manual is pretty good too from memory. Though cant for the life of me remember the socket style we used sorry. Will look up and post though id say that i will be beaten by someone else.
layto....

ok ive got a loan of a 54mm socket for the weekend.

ive also got some prices

$84 for a rear bearing kit, comes with hub seal bearings races, and the inner axle seal is $10.50ea

so id need two of ea of these.

these a good price?

am also going to do the brake cylinders and linings while im in there
cylinders $22ea
linings $44 pair


as for grease, i was just going to use castrol HTB, but if you guys have something better in mind im all ears

heh

after all that i dont think i need the 54mm socket for the rear, only the front.

seems the locking nut is not a socket rather round with lugs hanging out the front.

wierd looking thing, think a screwdriver will do it tho

Shadow wrote:
$84 for a rear bearing kit, comes with hub seal bearings races, and the inner axle seal is $10.50ea

OUCH!

the bearing kit should be $40 - $50, which should include 2x bearings, outer seal, drive plate gasket and probably a few bits for the front axle as the bearing kit is the same. the inner seals should be about $3 each tops.


you might need an impact screwdriver to loosen the locking nut retaining screws, they are tight and famous for having their heads mashed no matter how hard you push the screwdriver in.

Shadow wrote:ok ive got a loan of a 54mm socket for the weekend.

ive also got some prices

$84 for a rear bearing kit, comes with hub seal bearings races, and the inner axle seal is $10.50ea

so id need two of ea of these.

these a good price?

am also going to do the brake cylinders and linings while im in there
cylinders $22ea
linings $44 pair


as for grease, i was just going to use castrol HTB, but if you guys have something better in mind im all ears

DUUUUDE 54mm socket not needed on rear.

Alls ya do is undeo those two phillips head screws, think impact driver but they are tight little fawks/

bj on roids wrote:

Shadow wrote:ok ive got a loan of a 54mm socket for the weekend.

ive also got some prices

$84 for a rear bearing kit, comes with hub seal bearings races, and the inner axle seal is $10.50ea

so id need two of ea of these.

these a good price?

am also going to do the brake cylinders and linings while im in there
cylinders $22ea
linings $44 pair


as for grease, i was just going to use castrol HTB, but if you guys have something better in mind im all ears

DUUUUDE 54mm socket not needed on rear.

Alls ya do is undeo those two phillips head screws, think impact driver but they are tight little fawks/

even for genuine stuff (thats what the prices ive got are)

i know genuine parts are generally dearer but id prefer to use them. ill get a price for non genuine tomorrow.

We use castrol HTB at work and thats what i use in my and mates cars *(free hehehehe). Not had any trouble from it.
layto....

ok i decided to go with Toyota genuine parts

Got the bearing kits for $74 a side and the seals for $8 ea

used Castrol HTB

When we pulled the hub off, we noticed that there wasnt a sceric of grease left in the left hand side hub, This was the side that was leaking and it seems the oil washed all the rgease out. Amazingly the bearings were still 100%, no pitting scores etc, we changed them anyway (had them now lol)

To do the preloading of the bearings we used a simple puller to make up a three pronged tool. This worked really well as the puller had a large bout 19mm bolt through the middle which when locked up against the puller plate, Provided an excelent point for the torsion wrench. 3 bolts about 1.5" were used as the pins and locked up with a nut on the back of the puller. This allowed us to correctly apply the 60nM (43.6foot-pounds) to the bearing.

other than the special nut there was nothing complicated about it at all. threw it all back together (both sides) and put new diff oil in (had dumped it before we started).

all up it cost me

$74x2 bearing overhaul kit,
$8.60x2 inner axle seals
$6 Castrol HTB (Repco) (interestingly repco wascheaper than supercheap here!)
4L Castrol LSX90 $31

so total of $198

the fact that after 370thousand the origonal bearings were still in near perfect condition was reasuring and also reinforced my decision to go with genuine parts. If i had the bearings out before i purchased the parts i probably would have gone with new bearings as the car had been running on a blown inner axle seal for about 60k.

The diff oil needed a change anyway, as a side note, i have also noticed that the diff whine has dissapeared since chanigng the oil, hopefully this wont return. (whine at 95-100)

all up a good exercise.

the front cv's are shot (right one anyway) and we will be doing the same to the front in the near future, although the front doesnt leak the cv's need to come out and its morethan likely worthwhile doing at least the seals while they are out.

front kits will be more or less the same $74ea
cv changeover is $132 a side
Diff oil is about $26

so i shoulds have the front done for about $450. does $132 for exchange CV's seem about right?

bj on roids wrote:
DUUUUDE 54mm socket not needed on rear.

Alls ya do is undeo those two phillips head screws, think impact driver but they are tight little fawks/

impact screw driver did the trick. they had never been out since new and they were tight little fucks, took some hammering with the impact screwdriver (once i figured out which wy was out lol)

the biggest b i t c h in this job was removing the collets, we had predicted this and i was bombarding them with 5-56 for the week prior.

once we got the nuts off they still didnt want to budge, just went round the sides and face with a hammer and pin punch and after about 15minutes of hammering the first one popped out, shot to other side of garage :o from there they all came easy

The trick is to leave the nuts on a couple of turns so the collets dont do the disappearing trick into the depths of the shed!