Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hey all
basically just swapped petrol over to diesel in my gq swb
all the plugs for the solenoids and the switches are there and are plugged in and there is vacuum to the solenoids but nothing coming out the other side. just wondering is there like a fuse or a controller that i need to swap to make it work or anything like that cause id like to make it work over spending up on an arb unit. and as of yet havent checked if there is power to the solenoids but i know they work as they are less than 18months old and were working up until the engine swap
cheers in advance
ben

So check the solenoids are working!

quick check today proved my theory that there is no power getting to the solenoids, hence i asked if there is any module that needs to be swapped.
since asking ive heard there is a control unit of some sort bolted to the dash support near the stereo, up till now i havent had a chance to get in and have a look been busy.

There is a speed sensor on them I think. Where it is I got no idea. But remember something about them not being able to be engaged above a certain speed.

mmm interesting wonder if the instrument clusters are different then? mayby thats where is gets it signal from

Yer cant remember where its at. For a temp fix just run a On-On switch. And power the solenoids off that.

I have mine running via change over relay and a switch. Full custom loom and wanted it simple.
The speed cutout is on the back of the speedo. If you pull the cluster you, at the top of the speedo (on the PCB) is 10km symbol. If you follow this to the plug that is the wire that operates the cutout. I pretty sure if you cut the wire the diff lock still works and stays on at all speeds.

Or I'll sell you my complete diff lock, solenoids and switch as I'm going back to an LSD.

PS Turps, don't tell me you bought ones of these 12 months ago as well!!

nzdarin wrote:I have mine running via change over relay and a switch. Full custom loom and wanted it simple.
The speed cutout is on the back of the speedo. If you pull the cluster you, at the top of the speedo (on the PCB) is 10km symbol. If you follow this to the plug that is the wire that operates the cutout. I pretty sure if you cut the wire the diff lock still works and stays on at all speeds.

Or I'll sell you my complete diff lock, solenoids and switch as I'm going back to an LSD.

PS Turps, don't tell me you bought ones of these 12 months ago as well!!

Nope, my dad nearly brought a GQ with one 14yrs ago, then the dumb arse brought a 60series. I should have slapped him ages ago.
I got my idea from reading other peoples fixes on here.
I went looking and couldn't find the threads. But there's a number of bypass fixes with both the on-off and changing the solenoids that you have borrowed from other cars. Think there was also instructions on how to change it to positive pressure instead of vacuum operated.
Theres been some good lists of bits over the years.

Darin I got ARB's and unless I happen to buy a daily driver wagon (family car) that happens to have one, I doubt I will ever have one.

Slightly off topic and just out of interest:
I understand that the control unit prevents the factory locker from being engaged above 10 km/h. If you engage it below 10 km/h and then exceed that speed, does the controller disengage the locker or does it stay engaged at any speed?

Cheers
J

JBE wrote:Slightly off topic and just out of interest:
I understand that the control unit prevents the factory locker from being engaged above 10 km/h. If you engage it below 10 km/h and then exceed that speed, does the controller disengage the locker or does it stay engaged at any speed?

Cheers
J

The control unit only stops it engaging above 8Km/h to stop damage to the locker gear. Stays engaged after that, and can also disengage at any speed

Just out of interest are the factory lockers in the gu ti any good? And are they a front and rear locker?

str8up wrote:Just out of interest are the factory lockers in the gu ti any good? And are they a front and rear locker?

the factory locker is a VERY solid unit.
you only have to think about protection for the diapham on the diff. some 7mm plate works good .
no front locker, only rear.
Jes

i would be interested in the instuctions on how to convert it to positive pressure instead of vacuum, mite engage and disengage a little quicker, im assuming the only thing to be careful of is not to run heaps of psi into it or the diaphram may break, and i think its turned out to be the solenoids that have shat themselves. if i swap the hoses over i can get it to work but have to get out to do it.

BeNoS wrote:i would be interested in the instuctions on how to convert it to positive pressure instead of vacuum, mite engage and disengage a little quicker, im assuming the only thing to be careful of is not to run heaps of psi into it or the diaphram may break, and i think its turned out to be the solenoids that have shat themselves. if i swap the hoses over i can get it to work but have to get out to do it.

with a proper working vacuum/switching system the ON-OFF operation of the locker is pretty much instantaneous.

Jes

even when i had the brand new solenoids on which would be less than 18 months ago it had its days when sometimes it would come on straight away other times it takes ages.

My truck is a diesel and I get the vacuum from the vac pump on the alternator. I also don't use the control box in my set up. I tossed the original solenoid out and replaced them with an industrial pneumatic solenoid. It takes my factory locker anywhere from straight away to twenty seconds to engage. I think this is as quick as the ARB lockers. Maybe the control box does weird things