Outer Limits 4x4 Board

G'day, just got an '83 bj 42 that is mechanically excellent, but it's got more than its fair share of rust, of particular concern is the tub, there's a few spots on the arse end that have had copious amounts of bog applied, but that doesn't cut it for me, so I'm going to have a crack with either a mig or a tig - which would you use? I've got access to both and plenty of time to get them down pat. Also, what thickness sheet steel should I use? Oh the fun.

A tig would be better for the actual welding of the panels, but I think too much mucking around for panel repair. I think you will find a mig handier, easier to do rust repairs with and easier to get into tighter spots (not needing two hands to use). I've used both although not used the tig for rust repairs, I've always just used the mig for rust repairs.

hj 45 wrote:G'day, just got an '83 bj 42 that is mechanically excellent, but it's got more than its fair share of rust, of particular concern is the tub, there's a few spots on the arse end that have had copious amounts of bog applied, but that doesn't cut it for me, so I'm going to have a crack with either a mig or a tig - which would you use? I've got access to both and plenty of time to get them down pat. Also, what thickness sheet steel should I use? Oh the fun.

It all depends on where your rust is. I use the mig on some stuff and then the oxy on butt welding panels b4 planishing them up for a finish. If your just after a patch up mig it. Tig can be good on panels too.

Mig welds are hard so you can not hammer up your patch like you could if you use a TIG or Oxy.

Use 1mm body metal.

Cheers, the major areas are the seam where the wheel well butts up against the side of the tub - driver's side especially and the curved corner on the rear, also bits and pieces in the floor and front of the tub, but they're not the major concern, it's been bogged up and had a pretty good paintjob over the top, but I won't be happy until it's all steel. Not sure if the RWC guy would like that many bog spots either.

hj 45 wrote:Cheers, the major areas are the seam where the wheel well butts up against the side of the tub - driver's side especially and the curved corner on the rear, also bits and pieces in the floor and front of the tub, but they're not the major concern, it's been bogged up and had a pretty good paintjob over the top, but I won't be happy until it's all steel. Not sure if the RWC guy would like that many bog spots either.

Plug weld your wheel well butts up to the tub. For the curve on the rear quarter, but weld into rest of the quarter with oxy or TIG so you can hammer it up and where the lip is normally spot welded plug weld it with the mig. The RWC guy wont give a shit about bog, just as long as your chassis and cab mounts are sound and not rust covered in spray on sound deadner etc.

g'day, hj45,

Try to get on to uted1 if ya can he's just done a brilliant job of rust repair on some 40 series doors... if anyone can point ya in the right direction it's him...

hi there HJ 45

i had the same problem when i started doing up my 47s ute didnt want a bit of rust in the old girl at all. The thought of rust makes me cringe at the best of timmes and the though of a bogged up cruiser doesn't rate any higher. What i did with my cruiser is pulled it appart.



sandblasted the crap of it inside and out



did the rust repairs needed with the trusty mig welder cutting out and bits with the angel grinder

then paint



Dont be at all scared to do it yourself i am a mechanic and hadnt tuched a pannel before and the pannel beater was stoked with the job that i did. Now i can say that i own a full metal 47s with sweet FA bog. go for it bud

Nice job on the 47 Azza. I'll strip the thing down to the tub and evaluate what I have to do from there.

Cheers,

HJ