Im just after peoples opinions on routing the wire rope towards the front. im setting the winch to pull front and rear and its not a comp truck, (GU coil cab ) so it wont get repeated use and most winches will be from the rear.
Im interested to hear how people are routing the rope from about the gearbox Xmember forward.
A search showed that some are using rated eyes while others are running it through pipe as guides.
my concern is the amount of deflection needed to off set the rope around the engine mount and over the front axle and if rated eyes and such cause issues when guiding the rope at these angles, ( so far ive used pulley's ).
Ive also noticed some with coil sprung rovers have run the rope through the chassis rail, anyone see a problem with this ( apart from re routing if rope breaks ).
I have a 50mm body lift and a 50mm driveline lift so i should have enough room to route it outside the chassis but running it inside the chassis makes it a bit easier.
Terrain Tamer 9500lb, 9mm rope,
cheers jason
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mid mount winch
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I have seen a couple of cars with this. And I want to do the same.
Have my PTO mounted just behind the cab facing backwards. Run the cable around the back of the tray then forwards.
But I havent had time to even look at how to do it yet. The only pics I have are the rear of a GU.
Have my PTO mounted just behind the cab facing backwards. Run the cable around the back of the tray then forwards.
But I havent had time to even look at how to do it yet. The only pics I have are the rear of a GU.
THOUGHT FOR THE DAY....
Has anyone ever cut up a GU Patrol chassis before and taken note of its internals?
have they got any internal cords for stiffening?
I remember my rangie chassied trailer i made had internal strengthening sections around the spring mounts, engine mounts, crossmembers and suspension links where they join the chassis,, and i also note that the rangie chassis material thickness was considerably less than a nissan's.
If there is no other obstructions i think inside yhe chassis may work alright.
have they got any internal cords for stiffening?
I remember my rangie chassied trailer i made had internal strengthening sections around the spring mounts, engine mounts, crossmembers and suspension links where they join the chassis,, and i also note that the rangie chassis material thickness was considerably less than a nissan's.
If there is no other obstructions i think inside yhe chassis may work alright.
PM "cj!" his Sierra has a mid mount Warn that does front and rear.
Its a new build which means I've yet to see more than pics - but if its to the same standard as the rest of the vehicle it'll be well done.
Might be of some interest.
Its a new build which means I've yet to see more than pics - but if its to the same standard as the rest of the vehicle it'll be well done.
Might be of some interest.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
Keep in mind that this what buillt within certain physical limitations and on a Sierra and was not built with comps in mind.
The red circle shows the removable block that is slipped on for front pulls to guide the rope across the rear cross-member to the other block set into the cross-member (in the blue circle). These were constructed from a couple of snatch blocks. The rope actually goes through the pintle hook without touching.
From there it is a straight run to the front although a new transfer case mount was made that also houses a boat trailer roller to prevent the rope rubbing under the mount.
At the front it comes out through a shortened hawse fairlead thanks to Awill4x4.
There is a belly pan to provide some protection to the rope and the only static point that the rope passes through is the front fairlead keeping friction to a minimum. The hook needs to be removed before the rope can be passed through the rear cross-member and run to the front where it is then re-attached. A line is in place for running the rope so that you don't need to crawl underneath. This would generally be done before entering an obstacle that may require a front pull. It is a minor inconvenience but as it is not built for comps, speed isn't really an issue.
The red circle shows the removable block that is slipped on for front pulls to guide the rope across the rear cross-member to the other block set into the cross-member (in the blue circle). These were constructed from a couple of snatch blocks. The rope actually goes through the pintle hook without touching.
From there it is a straight run to the front although a new transfer case mount was made that also houses a boat trailer roller to prevent the rope rubbing under the mount.
At the front it comes out through a shortened hawse fairlead thanks to Awill4x4.
There is a belly pan to provide some protection to the rope and the only static point that the rope passes through is the front fairlead keeping friction to a minimum. The hook needs to be removed before the rope can be passed through the rear cross-member and run to the front where it is then re-attached. A line is in place for running the rope so that you don't need to crawl underneath. This would generally be done before entering an obstacle that may require a front pull. It is a minor inconvenience but as it is not built for comps, speed isn't really an issue.
[quote="4WD Stuff"]
I haven't quoted Grimbo because nobody takes him seriously :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: [/quote]
I haven't quoted Grimbo because nobody takes him seriously :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: [/quote]
Ive mounted my winch on a Xmember over the rear spring mounts (strengthening them aswell) facing to the rear, the rope runs rearward to a pulley at the rear Xmember. from there it turns 180 to the front and another pulley, beside the winch, which sends it down the rise in the chassis rails to under floor pan height.
Thats where im up to so far.
Also, worth noting that this set up has chassis damaging potential, because of the extreme forces being dealt with by winch mount and rear anchor point and the chassis in between.
I didnt want to change my wheelbase while winching so a fair bit of strengthening went into the chassis and im bracing between the 2 xmembers ie: winch mount and rear pulley mount
.
My set up wont require rerouting of the rope to pull front to rear, rather it will pull single line from the front and double line from the rear using a snatch block.
Thats where im up to so far.
Also, worth noting that this set up has chassis damaging potential, because of the extreme forces being dealt with by winch mount and rear anchor point and the chassis in between.
I didnt want to change my wheelbase while winching so a fair bit of strengthening went into the chassis and im bracing between the 2 xmembers ie: winch mount and rear pulley mount
.My set up wont require rerouting of the rope to pull front to rear, rather it will pull single line from the front and double line from the rear using a snatch block.
Yes, mine is very well braced. We put in two new crossmembers to mount the winch cradle and battery with as well as building a very strong new rear crossmember at the back of the chassis and there is a brace between the rearmost winch crossmember and the rear of the chassis too. The Engineer is fine with all the work.
I can also leave it setup for a single line front pull and do a rear double line pull if desired.
I can also leave it setup for a single line front pull and do a rear double line pull if desired.
[quote="4WD Stuff"]
I haven't quoted Grimbo because nobody takes him seriously :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: [/quote]
I haven't quoted Grimbo because nobody takes him seriously :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: [/quote]
Front to rear it just has the roller to drop it slightly to clear the t-case mount and other than that it clears everything 
it took a little planning though and the front fairlead sits off to the side slightly and a little lower than originally planned but as least the rope has a good run.
I like rollers because they don't have the same drag as a fixed eye or running it through tube that is full of mud.
it took a little planning though and the front fairlead sits off to the side slightly and a little lower than originally planned but as least the rope has a good run.I like rollers because they don't have the same drag as a fixed eye or running it through tube that is full of mud.
[quote="4WD Stuff"]
I haven't quoted Grimbo because nobody takes him seriously :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: [/quote]
I haven't quoted Grimbo because nobody takes him seriously :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: [/quote]
Nice setup (and nice bike) cj.
There is also a 100" Landie hybrid floating around, which belongs to a guy called Nigel in vic. The vehicle was mostly built by Bill Larman. It also runs a similar setup with a mid mounted 8274.
I am planning to do something similar on my Landie.
There is also a 100" Landie hybrid floating around, which belongs to a guy called Nigel in vic. The vehicle was mostly built by Bill Larman. It also runs a similar setup with a mid mounted 8274.
I am planning to do something similar on my Landie.
_____________________________________________________________
RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
Yeah i knew bill and ive seen nigels car 100'' rover thats where i got the idea, but i never looked at the forward rigging of the rope, ( i was too busy drooling over the Portal hubs Bill was making ), im pretty sure they ran it through the chassis rails too.
when i saw the truck it had a mid mounted P.T.O winch pretty sure.
when i saw the truck it had a mid mounted P.T.O winch pretty sure.
Not mine...it belongs to a certain gwagen owning person who also bares a degree of responsibility for the state of my toyRed Dog 4x4 wrote:Nice Kona Stinky in the back ground CJ
As has been said more than once so far "at least it's a lot of work"[quote="4WD Stuff"]
I haven't quoted Grimbo because nobody takes him seriously :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: [/quote]
I haven't quoted Grimbo because nobody takes him seriously :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: [/quote]
amen to thatcj wrote: "at least it's a lot of work"
We investigated the idea of double line pulls only to the rear, but it seems a shame to have 75ft/m and then throw it away by double line pulling most of the time.
Steve.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Ok i'll post pics of work so far (hit a bit of a wall lately)
Blue arrows show 3 of 4 of the pulleys used to direct rope to the front
this is the rope entering chassis at about gearbox xmember
front fairlead
i made these out of snatch blocks
blue arrow shows rear pulley. green arrpws show braces between winch mount and rear pulley crossmember.[/img]
Blue arrows show 3 of 4 of the pulleys used to direct rope to the front
this is the rope entering chassis at about gearbox xmember
front fairlead
i made these out of snatch blocks
blue arrow shows rear pulley. green arrpws show braces between winch mount and rear pulley crossmember.[/img]
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