Outer Limits 4x4 Board

i have a problem with my cruiser it wont get warm to run heater in the morrnings, on flat and cool days, down hill with heater on full its still blows cool, but up hills its ok, up long hills if i push it i need heater on or motor gets 2 hot. I cant work it out, i put a near new thermostat in 4 weeks ago no change, there is no a/c rad anymore, tho it has a arb bullbar with warn hi mount winch and a set of lightforce 240s spotlights up front. I need 2 get it working properly so i can heat the cab in winter and run cool in summer. Any ideas?

Have you tried draining and flushing out the cooling system, maybe some scale cought in the water valve.
Also check your viscous fan clutch and fan shroud. I know it sounds silly but i removed my fan shroud a few years ago and had issues with the cooling system until i re-fitted it and replaced the fan clutch, then it was fine again.

x2 viscous fan, if you replace only use genuine tho!!!!!!!!!

beavis wrote:Have you tried draining and flushing out the cooling system, maybe some scale cought in the water valve.
Also check your viscous fan clutch and fan shroud. I know it sounds silly but i removed my fan shroud a few years ago and had issues with the cooling system until i re-fitted it and replaced the fan clutch, then it was fine again.

yeah have flushed the cooling system its got good coolant in it. might get a new clutch, how do i test old 1?

Staying cold on cool mornings and getting hot when ya push it hard, My old 12HT did the same thing and it was thermostat! I know you said you changed it 4 weeks ago, but it could have been a dud! I would buy a Genuine toyota thermostat, but before you put it in, test it in water on the stove and bring it to the boil, Monitor it with a thermometer, Operating temp is 82 Deg C, and it will be opened to its maximum at 90 Deg C. but before you do that just give the valve a push open and close with ya fingers to make sure its not just stuck shut. That can happen during the manufacturing process.

The 60's have a decent cooling system. With a dodgy thermostat on cold mornings it will work too efficiently meaning she'll stay cold and when you work it hard if the thermostat isnt controlling the flow, the water can rush through before it gets a chance to cool down. My old 60's temp gauge used to sit just under half way at operating temp. But it was known to do its own thing occasionally.

I too would check the viscous hub. That way be contributing to the over heating problem if it is the case and not the gauge giving false readings. Do you have an aftermarket guage or going off the factory one. In my old Sahara the factory one played some funny games nearly all the time, it would go up to just under red at 90 Deg C. I would pull over, pop the bonnet and feel the radiator cap and it didnt smell warm, coolant level in the overflow bottle would be normal, and the radiator wouldnt feel hot. So i just learnt to trust the VDO Water temp guage and not the factory one.

my 2c
Troy

Yeah like vsaharax said those toyo gauges are not that reliable. By memory mine runs at 80 degrees celsius or 175 in the old language.

As for the fan clutch i'm not exactly sure how to check em but other than the obvious wobbling or oil loss, i remember someone saying something about how hot they feel after running. i.e. if its too hot too touch it may have no oil left. Some other people on here might have more knowledge into the workings of the fan clutch.

Also have you tampered with the boost at all? As this will most often affect your under load running temp. if you dont use pyrometer.

x3 thermostat.

if the fan clutch is bad it will probably run hot unless the fan clutch is jammed up and turned at water pump speed.

Get the vehile to operating temp and sut her down. Then grab hold of the fan and get some one to start the vehicle for you. If the fan hub is knackerd you will fell verry little resistance on the fan. Whilst it is running let it go and then shut engine of whilst watchin the fan, if its stuffed it will free wheel for quite a while after shut down.

land8079 wrote:... grab hold of the fan and get some one to start the vehicle for you. ...

that is possibly one of the most ridiculously dangerous things anyone has ever said on this forum. hopefully the sheer stupidity of this course of action is obvious.

dumbdunce wrote:

land8079 wrote:... grab hold of the fan and get some one to start the vehicle for you. ...

that is possibly one of the most ridiculously dangerous things anyone has ever said on this forum. hopefully the sheer stupidity of this course of action is obvious.

x shiatloads. Please don't do this.

Have you pulled the heater hoses off the tap and made sure the tap is operational?

land8079 wrote:Get the vehile to operating temp and sut her down. Then grab hold of the fan and get some one to start the vehicle for you. If the fan hub is knackerd you will fell verry little resistance on the fan. Whilst it is running let it go and then shut engine of whilst watchin the fan, if its stuffed it will free wheel for quite a while after shut down.

you have not come across a good 1 i take it. cause i tryed what you said with both hands just in case, but it was a good 1 and shreded both my hands.

i have a bit more boost 10pound tho the temps dident change before or after. I might try a new thermostat and fan soon.