I dont see a problem but i thought i might ask. Due to space i cant mount the control box for my Ironman 9500 winch actually on the winch where they are made to fit. I need to mount it inside engine bay, which means i have to extend the cables going to the winch by about two feet.
To make it easier im going to just replace the cables completely with longer ones of the same gauge, this shouldnt be a problem should it, would expect bugger all voltage loss?
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Winch elec cable lengths
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I'm still not clear - by "control box" do you mean the solenoids, or simply the switching wires?
Ultimately, you lose voltage over the entire length of the electrical path from positive battery terminal, through the solenoids, the winch motor and the return path back to the negative battery terminal.
Lengthening the cables between the solenoids & the winch motor isn't much of an issue if you can reduce the length between battery and solenoids. If you need to extend both, I would suggest either finding another solution, or using larger cables.
Ultimately, you lose voltage over the entire length of the electrical path from positive battery terminal, through the solenoids, the winch motor and the return path back to the negative battery terminal.
Lengthening the cables between the solenoids & the winch motor isn't much of an issue if you can reduce the length between battery and solenoids. If you need to extend both, I would suggest either finding another solution, or using larger cables.
I use an lpg blow torch to heat it up, and whack lots of solder into the lug after I have crimped it. Then I cover the whole thing with liquid electrical tape, and over the top of that with race tape. Makes for a perfectly sealed connection that is not prone to corrosion. especially good if you do beach work
this sounds like a good connection .crunk81us wrote:I use an lpg blow torch to heat it up, and whack lots of solder into the lug after I have crimped it. Then I cover the whole thing with liquid electrical tape, and over the top of that with race tape. Makes for a perfectly sealed connection that is not prone to corrosion. especially good if you do beach work
i wouldnt rely on solder alone as it can melt when heated up during winching and could cause a major failure.
Gu TD42t
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I personally believe that a correctly sized crimp lug crimped on the cable with the right tool is superior to a soldered lug connection for this application.
The connection will be practically impervious to corrosion if covered with glue lined heat shrink.
I know there are a lot of opinions out there, so I will qualify mine as an industrial electrician with more than ten years experience. We never solder lugs on to cables.
Cheers,
Krusty
The connection will be practically impervious to corrosion if covered with glue lined heat shrink.
I know there are a lot of opinions out there, so I will qualify mine as an industrial electrician with more than ten years experience. We never solder lugs on to cables.
Cheers,
Krusty
i very rarely solder joins.
1. soldering ends the only advantage multistrand wire has over single strand. flexibility.
2. solder becomes prone to cracking from vibrations, something that every 4wd suffers from.
3. solder doesnt allow the flow of electricity as well as crimps (generally).
4. a well crimped connection is MUCH harder to break.
5. much easier to switch wires around should you need to if you only have to pull 2 connectors apart than if you have to re-melt solder.
the only time i solder is if i am making a "T" connection, even then i would rather cut the wire and use crimp connectors if i can.
BUT!!!! if you only have a cheap crimping tool, then forget about it. go spend the money of a quality ratcheting crimper, its worth it!
my 2c worth
1. soldering ends the only advantage multistrand wire has over single strand. flexibility.
2. solder becomes prone to cracking from vibrations, something that every 4wd suffers from.
3. solder doesnt allow the flow of electricity as well as crimps (generally).
4. a well crimped connection is MUCH harder to break.
5. much easier to switch wires around should you need to if you only have to pull 2 connectors apart than if you have to re-melt solder.
the only time i solder is if i am making a "T" connection, even then i would rather cut the wire and use crimp connectors if i can.
BUT!!!! if you only have a cheap crimping tool, then forget about it. go spend the money of a quality ratcheting crimper, its worth it!
my 2c worth
[quote="Barnsey"]
Bronwyn Bishop does it for me.[/quote]
Bronwyn Bishop does it for me.[/quote]
Tried that, just splits the bastards.
Well ive rung everywhere, ya just cant get em.
One bloke i rang gave me an idea of using some nice copper bar, cut to about 2inch long, drill suitable holes at either end, bend 90deg in middle, then bolt one end of copper to solenoid (for lack of better description), and the other to a freshly crimped on lug, then heatshrink the shizen out of it.
Well ive rung everywhere, ya just cant get em.
One bloke i rang gave me an idea of using some nice copper bar, cut to about 2inch long, drill suitable holes at either end, bend 90deg in middle, then bolt one end of copper to solenoid (for lack of better description), and the other to a freshly crimped on lug, then heatshrink the shizen out of it.
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