Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hey peoples.. what are everyones thoughts on turbo timers? Should you let the turbo cool down everytime before switching the eng off?? Just wondering if its worth investing in a turbo timer or not.. Thanks

IMWO, not worth the bux.
I take it easy for the few 100mtrs before home, and if it isnt <200 by then, I get out, get me phone/wallet and stuff, and its done by then..
Same when going to shops, by the time you park, it usually drops 100 so your fairly safe.

Also some insurance companies dont allow them, or didnt when I called yrs back..

Useless gimmick.
If you want to know if the turbo needs cooling down, then fit an EGT gauge and look at that.

It's very rare that it ever needs idling down. Idling is bad for diesels, best to minimise it.

x3

Waste of money. Buy and fit a quality pyro and you'll be fine.

thanks guys.. reckon i'll take it off then!

Umm in the first post you ask if you should invest in one then say you'll pull it out...so which is it?

NutterGQ wrote:Umm in the first post you ask if you should invest in one then say you'll pull it out...so which is it?

Take it off the list maybe?

Really depends on your motor, If its a deisel I wouldnt bother,

I have a tb42 turbo and I might be a tad overboard but I like to see the pyro down to about 400c before turning it off.
If I have been on the highway cruise is around 650c so 3 minutes on the timer will bring it down to 400c.
If I have been just around town its usually around 480 (depending on how I have been driving) so 1 minute is perfect.
Most times I just put on the steering lock, get my stuff together and its down to 400c but if Im late for work or impatient I simply flick it on a minute lock the door and bolt.

Cooling down the turbo is important how you do it isnt.

If its a water cooled turbo then turn of below 350c but if its not then turn it off below 200c.
chpd80 you temps seem a bit high allround .JMO

Yeah mate its watercooled,
Tuned by Joel at PGS here in Vic. He has seen temps nearly double that on hard worked Petrol Comp trucks, and as he says a lot of passenger cars catalytic convertors dont start working until 650 degrees as they are tuned from the factory to run at those temps.

Yes I was worried the temps were too high which is why I took it to him but he is the expert and assures me they are fine.

Petrol temps are way way higher than diesel temps as I was used too.

KiwiBacon wrote:Idling is bad for diesels, best to minimise it.

I'm not sure exactly what you mean by that, I always thought that it was good to idle a diesel (or any engine) when cold to get the oil flowing, and as for when you stop driving, I have never been told that it is bad to idle my diesel engine... please correct me if i'm wrong. Sorry to lead you away from the topic at hand.

My NG Pajero 2.5 TDI is fitted with a Turbo Timer, but who knows if I need it or not (in relation to the turbo temperature)?? I have mine set on 30 seconds most of the time, but another benefit that I can see from having a turbo timer on my car is that when I do long distance night driving with my high beams and 4x Lightforce spotties, it's good to put a bit of charge back into my battery before shutting it off (turbo timer is often set to 2 or 3 minutes or more). My Grandfather's Landcruiser HJ62 also has a turbo timer fitted (more than 20 years ago) with no issues ever.

Sammyboy wrote:

KiwiBacon wrote:Idling is bad for diesels, best to minimise it.

I'm not sure exactly what you mean by that, I always thought that it was good to idle a diesel (or any engine) when cold to get the oil flowing, and as for when you stop driving, I have never been told that it is bad to idle my diesel engine... please correct me if i'm wrong. Sorry to lead you away from the topic at hand.

My NG Pajero 2.5 TDI is fitted with a Turbo Timer, but who knows if I need it or not (in relation to the turbo temperature)?? I have mine set on 30 seconds most of the time, but another benefit that I can see from having a turbo timer on my car is that when I do long distance night driving with my high beams and 4x Lightforce spotties, it's good to put a bit of charge back into my battery before shutting it off (turbo timer is often set to 2 or 3 minutes or more). My Grandfather's Landcruiser HJ62 also has a turbo timer fitted (more than 20 years ago) with no issues ever.

dont know about your set up but on mine, the alt light comes on to say its not functioning once the turbo timer takes over, so chances are its not charging anything.

I have turbo timer and EGT, so can monitor what is going on.

I have it set to 30 seconds, which in almost all cases is heaps of time to get the EGT below 200C. If i have cruised in taking it easy, I will simply hit the stop button.

Mine is a plug in boggard on a GQ, alternator continues working until engine shuts off.

As for idling.... for that amount of time, I don't think you are going to glaze your bores (well, not for the seconds that mine idles for, it idles more sitting at the lights!!). If you are worried, just give it a good bootful when you drive it again, stop the glazing (I don't think mine will EVER glaze LOL)

Sammyboy wrote:

KiwiBacon wrote:Idling is bad for diesels, best to minimise it.

I'm not sure exactly what you mean by that, I always thought that it was good to idle a diesel (or any engine) when cold to get the oil flowing, and as for when you stop driving, I have never been told that it is bad to idle my diesel engine... please correct me if i'm wrong. Sorry to lead you away from the topic at hand.

My NG Pajero 2.5 TDI is fitted with a Turbo Timer, but who knows if I need it or not (in relation to the turbo temperature)?? I have mine set on 30 seconds most of the time, but another benefit that I can see from having a turbo timer on my car is that when I do long distance night driving with my high beams and 4x Lightforce spotties, it's good to put a bit of charge back into my battery before shutting it off (turbo timer is often set to 2 or 3 minutes or more). My Grandfather's Landcruiser HJ62 also has a turbo timer fitted (more than 20 years ago) with no issues ever.

He is correct in a way, but its not specifically idling that can glaze bores, its a constant RPM anywhere in the range that can cause glazing.
Having youre truck sitting on a turbo timer wont do fark all as you have to have it running for a long long long time before glazing becomes an issue, as when you start it up the next morning and go to drive it, the piston will be moving at different speeds and loads.
Keeping youre injectors in good condition also helps prevent glazing.

Sammyboy wrote:

KiwiBacon wrote:Idling is bad for diesels, best to minimise it.

I'm not sure exactly what you mean by that, I always thought that it was good to idle a diesel (or any engine) when cold to get the oil flowing, and as for when you stop driving, I have never been told that it is bad to idle my diesel engine... please correct me if i'm wrong. Sorry to lead you away from the topic at hand.

Unless your engine has issues, oil pressure should be reached within seconds of startup. From there you need to get the engine to operating temp as soon as you can. Many diesels can't warm up when running at idle.

At cold idle you're squirting diesel against cold surfaces where it can't burn cleanly. It soots up your oil and can glaze bores. Both are worth avoiding. The same thing happens on cool-down. Basically as soon as your engine reaches a safe exhaust temp, shut it down.

So you're saying that once the oild pressure has reached normal, you can run it as hard as you want??

I've always waited until the thermostat has opened before i do any "spirited" driving.

coxy321 wrote:So you're saying that once the oild pressure has reached normal, you can run it as hard as you want??

No, that would be stupid.

I was told by a diesel mecho when I was young that it is better to start driving right away, but gently. No bootfuls until the gauge starts to rise.

lump_a_charcoal wrote:I was told by a diesel mecho when I was young that it is better to start driving right away, but gently. No bootfuls until the gauge starts to rise.

That's what I do. Driving it gently is the best way to get everything warmed up.
Then put the boot in.

I have an auber pyro which is designed for commericial applications and does a heap of different functions.

Someone who has a bit of sparky knowledge should create a set up which makes the turbo timer redundant and keeps the engine running until it reachs a set temp say 200 C then automatically shuts it off.

then you have the best of both worlds, as most of the time it wont keep running (this way you can use your toyota handbrake - first gear) but if it is hot then it takes control and protects your donk.