Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Have got myself a 1973 Rangie with maxi axles and maxi Lockers and running 35s, I have broken a CV so had them heat treated etc with no further problems.
What my questions are with regards to the diffs, what will break next, will it be the diff centres or are they pretty tuff.

And also I have beefed up steering arms however i did manage to bend the tie rod were the thread is about 90 degrees.
Whats the best way to make this point stronger ie has anyone grafted a Nissan tie rod end into the steering arm.
I have also been told to leave it alone because if I make it to strong the next thing to break would be the steering box.

Any help much appreciated...

As you said yourself, leave your front steering arm alone, and carry a piece of waterpipe in the back to straighten it back out so you can go home. The impact through steering boxes is supposed to bugger them over time...

With maxi axles and lockers and strengthened CVs, I'd take a guess that the next weakest point is probably going to be the crownwheel. Solution (or at least life prolonging option!) is apparently to peg them in some way. Not sure on details, never really looked into it myself.

With what you have done the weak link is now the crown wheel and pinion.

The best you can do, retaining the maxi-drive locker and axles etc. is to 'peg' the diff. I'm pretty sure there is info in this forum if you search back far enough (Reddo did his at one stage). The principle uses a bronze thrust block that limits the crown wheel flex (away from the pinion). You may also find information on Ashcrofts web site.

You can fit toyota diff centres (hypoid and much stronger) to your housings, but you won't be able to re-use the maxi-locker and axles. But you can get stronger longfield, 30 spline axles and cv's from Kieth at Rovertracks http://www.rovertracks.com/products/driveline.html

If you can sell your maxi-drive axle assemblies and get some stock ones, the Rovertracks kit is a good option.

For the steering, Maxi tie rod (from MR Automotive now) etc. or Rovertracks are both good. There are probably others.

EDIT: haha bush65, you bet me by 4 mins! must be my slow typing!

RangingRover wrote:With maxi axles and lockers and strengthened CVs, I'd take a guess that the next weakest point is probably going to be the crownwheel. Solution (or at least life prolonging option!) is apparently to peg them in some way. Not sure on details, never really looked into it myself.

http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/part_47.html

pics not working it looks like though, but you'll get the idea.

ashcroft wrote:If you are heavily off roading your Rover one of the first mods you will need is to change the diff centre for a stronger one be it either Detroit locker, ARB or other, once you have the diff centre up rated you may still experience a failure of the crown wheel and pinion gears.

The reason for the ring and pinion failing is because when the diff is shock loaded, the pinion will push the crown wheel away as the diff centre flexes, once the pinion teeth start to ride up the crown wheel teeth this can allow the pinion to spin and take some teeth off either gear.

We "Peg" the diff to hold the gears in constant mesh by putting a thrust pad behind the crown wheel, opposite the pinion, this means the pinion cannot push the crown wheel away.

Thanks for the info guys. I think that Diff Pegging is a good idea.
I suppose you would have to be going pretty hard to do a crown wheel.

Talking to the guys at Mr Automotive they reckon change the pitman arm on the steering box and the drag link to a later model Disco one which is a lot stronger. So if i bend another one i might look into it.

Thanks again for the advice.

MR automotive will be the best bet for anything that you will need for your Rover. They are great for just advise aswell.
Welcome to the world of Rangies.

Bush65 wrote:For the steering, Maxi tie rod (from MR Automotive now) etc. or Rovertracks are both good. There are probably others.

1" SCHD 80 pipe fits over the tie rods well, at least on my 90. It is only a few dollars and will make them as strong as any aftermarket tie rod.

Yep get them pegged def helps

Mal

I've also pegged my front its a 4.7 with a trutrack, stock axels and 35's havent broke an axel yet

What have you done with the little outer shafts on the front. The ones that have bolts on outside and run into the CV. Are yours standard or are they strengthened?
And did you pegg the diff yourself or do you know someone that can do it?

Thanks

Kirby wrote:What have you done with the little outer shafts on the front. The ones that have bolts on outside and run into the CV. Are yours standard or are they strengthened?
And did you pegg the diff yourself or do you know someone that can do it?

Thanks

Those are for early 10 spline cv's.

When upgrading inner axles (half shafts), you can change to better cv's. In order of increasing strength, early County genuine cv's, Ashcroft 4340/300M 24 spline cv's, Longfield toyota 30 spline cv's (used with toyota 30 spline diff centre and supplied by Rovertracks). New drive flanges are required to suit.

Tell me if I am wrong. I have been told that with Maxi Lockers because it replaces the diff centre this makes the centre a lot stronger than the original unit. And harder to break, so may not require Diff Pegging. Whats your opinion.

Kirby wrote:Tell me if I am wrong. I have been told that with Maxi Lockers because it replaces the diff centre this makes the centre a lot stronger than the original unit. And harder to break, so may not require Diff Pegging. Whats your opinion.

Umm NO

Kirby wrote:Tell me if I am wrong. I have been told that with Maxi Lockers because it replaces the diff centre this makes the centre a lot stronger than the original unit. And harder to break, so may not require Diff Pegging. Whats your opinion.

It is a stronger carrier and does run dual crosspins, but at the end of the day peggin the diff is always goin to help.

Britswed wrote:

Kirby wrote:Tell me if I am wrong. I have been told that with Maxi Lockers because it replaces the diff centre this makes the centre a lot stronger than the original unit. And harder to break, so may not require Diff Pegging. Whats your opinion.

Umm NO

Mal, was it your Rangie at Tuff Truck this year on display.
If so how do feel about posting up pictures of the little sliders you did on the rear trailing arms were they attach to the chassis. They were really neat. I have been trying to work out how to do it and still be able to get to the nut on the end of the trailing arm. Thanks Mate..

Kirby wrote:

Britswed wrote:

Kirby wrote:Tell me if I am wrong. I have been told that with Maxi Lockers because it replaces the diff centre this makes the centre a lot stronger than the original unit. And harder to break, so may not require Diff Pegging. Whats your opinion.

Umm NO

Mal, was it your Rangie at Tuff Truck this year on display.
If so how do feel about posting up pictures of the little sliders you did on the rear trailing arms were they attach to the chassis. They were really neat. I have been trying to work out how to do it and still be able to get to the nut on the end of the trailing arm. Thanks Mate..

Yep that is my car i will get some pics to you as soon as i can

Mal

Thanks..

Britswed wrote:

Kirby wrote:Tell me if I am wrong. I have been told that with Maxi Lockers because it replaces the diff centre this makes the centre a lot stronger than the original unit. And harder to break, so may not require Diff Pegging. Whats your opinion.

Umm NO

This is correct the solid billet maxi drive hemishpere is a lot more rigid than the standard hemisphere and this this will reduce but NOT eliminate the amount of flex the crown wheel will give. Ashcroft and others do make thicker & stronger crown and pinions in different ratios.

buzz66 wrote:

Britswed wrote:

Kirby wrote:Tell me if I am wrong. I have been told that with Maxi Lockers because it replaces the diff centre this makes the centre a lot stronger than the original unit. And harder to break, so may not require Diff Pegging. Whats your opinion.

Umm NO

This is correct the solid billet maxi drive hemishpere is a lot more rigid than the standard hemisphere and this this will reduce but NOT eliminate the amount of flex the crown wheel will give. Ashcroft and others do make thicker & stronger crown and pinions in different ratios.

This is also true for the New (recent years) style ARB locker for the 24s.
Couple this to a GBS crown and pinion set with High tuff axels and you would have a stronger diff.
My view is that a toyota convertion will be stronger though.

Thanks For the Info.

Did the SSS winch comp on the weekend, had a ball. However now have to come up with stronger engine mounts after leaveing my 2 on the track somewhere.

Try thease from QT http://www.qtservices.co.uk/product.asp?id=2694#

They look awsome, However i am running a 350 chev. So I am getting Madazz Fabrications to make me up something similiar. Thanks anyway..

Kirby wrote:They look awsome, However i am running a 350 chev. So I am getting Madazz Fabrications to make me up something similiar. Thanks anyway..

Probably 2 late, but IMHO, Qld Rollers and Liners in Rocklea Brisbane make the best engine mounts (and other rubber bits). Syd King (the owner) is a rangie, and bushie owner as well.

I use Jag V12 mounts on my truck been in there for years not even looking close too splitting

Mal

hey mal are the v12 mounts identical, i've been told this as well, just been to lazy thus far to take a stock mount in and compare them....

def90 wrote:hey mal are the v12 mounts identical, i've been told this as well, just been to lazy thus far to take a stock mount in and compare them....

They are larger in diameter.

def90 wrote:hey mal are the v12 mounts identical, i've been told this as well, just been to lazy thus far to take a stock mount in and compare them....

They are identical mounting wise as the rangie stocks,but way bigger

Mal

Thanks for the pictures Mal, appreciate it..

No worries

Mal