Outer Limits 4x4 Board

i need to cut down my new tailshaft for a 4 link conversion can i simply cut it at the uni then cut a section out and reweld the uni on? i realise that the cuts would need to be as straight possible for the balance or whateva.

Anyone done it or am i silly for even suggesting it?

-Waz

If you had access to a suitable sized lathe and knew how to use it, you could turn the weld yoke off, cut the shaft to length then install the yoke and weld it in the lathe. I've seen it done, and it does work.

If the yoke is perfectly true to the shaft, it doesn't even need balancing. Balancing is only needed to compensate for yoke runout or curvature in the tube.

Without a lathe, don't even think about it.

that is the only way it should be done!
for the sake of 150 balanced

a lathe i do have access to, so i should be able to cut the weld from the yoke end and take the yoke off alltogether?

I'd have it balanced afterwards - vibrations is not mechanically cool.

Still you could drive it and see how it goes, but it doesn't seem really the most professional approach IMO

MightyMouse wrote:I'd have it balanced afterwards - vibrations is not mechanically cool.

I would want it balanced too. And my feeling is that by the time you get it balanced, your life might be easier to get it shortened AND balanced by someone else.

But... that is because personally my confidence level would not be that high with this job.

one_waz wrote:i need to cut down my new tailshaft for a 4 link conversion can i simply cut it at the uni then cut a section out and reweld the uni on? i realise that the cuts would need to be as straight possible for the balance or whateva.

Anyone done it or am i silly for even suggesting it?

-Waz

you can do it, but as been said balance at high rpm is important.
if you have a lathe, and the tailshaft is straight to start with you are already 3/4 of the way there

JEs

i have done it a few times ( i am a machinist). its really very easy. as already said, dont attemp it without a lathe because it wont work. Dont cut the yolk straight off the end either, they have a section that locates in the inside of the tube that you dont want to cut off. The tube usually tapers in towards the uni, so you might need a spacer turned up so it all locates properly because the diameter is goin to get bigger. depends which end an how much shorter you go etc etc i spose

turns out i want to lengthen a shorter shaft i have rather then cut down the longer one. so i can start by turning the ends off, do both the yoke and uni have locators on them? my plan is to turn both the ends off get some decent tube to lengthen it then weld it in the lathe. and have it balanced when finished.

is there a trick to pulling the dust cover off the yoke ?

Yes both ends will have locators , when machining the weld only do the half on the shaft side , not the uni or slip joint side to avoid machining the step off. The weld sits halfway across each section of the joint if you can understand that , also mark the shaft so the uni/slip joint go back in parrallel to each other , Cheers Paul.

It would be easier to shorten a longer shaft and less dramas with balancing it. I have seen truck tailshaft shortened as described above, mark the orientation of the yolk and shaft, re-align marks before you weld it. If you are only shortening it a little the balancing may not be affected much at all.
The truck tailshaft I saw done like this was done in a farm shed with lathe and taken to driveline specialist for balancing, it needed nothing done to it, it was perfectly balanced

ive decided to make a one piece to solve some fab issues with the 4 link so thats why i need to lengthen now insted of the shorten. Any ideas on getting the dust cover off the yoke? it spins easy but i cant manage to get it off

I got quoted about $100 a couple of years ago from a joint in Keysborough. Why would you bother doing it yourself?

self satisfaction

ive done tailshafts for years, and if its a daily driver get a shop to do it otherwise you WILL have vibration issues!

its not a daily driver, but i will probably get a shop to balance it. should get rid of most the vibration issues

so i have machined the yoke and uni off the old shaft and was surprised that the shaft wass only about 1 - 2 mm wall thickness. Have started machining a pipe to replace it, it was about 10mm wall thickness. how thick should i make the new shaft remembering its twice the length, 5mm?