Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Looking at getting more flex in my 80. got 4" lift, 2" body an 35's, anyone know where i can find more info on an xlink? cant seem to find anything.

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ptopic180132.php

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... highlight=

hth

cheers mate, dont know why but can never seem to find what i want with the search an google just kept showing me every page with the word link in it so pretty much every page ever made. Thanks again.

no probs

buy the 4wd extreme custom edition magazine, theirs a heap of info on it in there.

Or look here http://www.dobbinengineering.com/

Ive heard that they cause the radius arms to twist anyone running an xlink with factory radius arms experiencing difficulties.

Try the super flex arms from superior eng. They are doing them for cruisers now.

yeah looked at that but the xlink is half the price and can be pinned for on road use so is same as standard.
New radius arms are bout 1200 that why interested if anyone had issues with them bending cause in that case the superiors would be a cheaper option.

4 link it.

i have a home made x link in my 80, been in there a couple of years now at least and i just pulled it apart and the arms are still straight as...

flex aint gonna bend the arms, you are going to break something else before you bend them.

IMO if you have to reconnect bolts just to make it driveable on road then you may as well save the $$'s and just take out the front passenger side bolt whenever you go offroad!
If you change to something with little or no roll stiffness then you end up having to put something like a swaybar back on it to make it better offcamber, seems silly to me.
There is a reason those setups aren't used on high speed/comp rigs!

A sway bar isnt a bad thing, if its suited to the purpose, and has the links in the correct spot for compression, and droop.

Its all about tuning the set up, and building in some adjustment.

But a properly dimensioned 4 link isnt difficult, and works/drives/ best.

Its not all about flex, its also about being able to put the vehicle where you want it, have it soak up what its being thrown at, and have the vehicle behave and not do anything to catch you out while doing it.

5 -10 years ago offroad racers werent big on sway bars, now they drive everything faster, its become part of what they can tune on the car, next they will need more power, then the suspensuion wont cope with the speed, and then when it does, they need more power, and round it goes as it evolves.

The lower socio economic levels of off road competion are really just going full circle once at the moment, from more power, to better suspension, to tuning the suspension to suit, and as this suspension improves, more power will be the next requirement, and around it will go again.

This proccess becomes "he with the most $ will progress the fastest."

But it doesnt mean you cant watch what they do, and apply it to your own.

Assassin_Offroad wrote:A sway bar isnt a bad thing, if its suited to the purpose, and has the links in the correct spot for compression, and droop.

Its all about tuning the set up, and building in some adjustment.

But a properly dimensioned 4 link isnt difficult, and works/drives/ best.

agree fully, but by the sounds of it the OP just wants a cheap setup.

1MadEngineer wrote:

Assassin_Offroad wrote:A sway bar isnt a bad thing, if its suited to the purpose, and has the links in the correct spot for compression, and droop.

Its all about tuning the set up, and building in some adjustment.

But a properly dimensioned 4 link isnt difficult, and works/drives/ best.

agree fully, but by the sounds of it the OP just wants a cheap setup.

As apposed to value for money, your meaning ?

Its all about technology. And the best by far improvement has come from toyota themselves.

The new cruisers have a hydrolic swaybar. Its basically a hydrolic piston and is piped (2 pipes, with each 1 way valves) to the rear on the same side so 1 cant travel up without the other travelling down = Holds just like a normal sway bar but has full articulation if set up propperly. My 1 is going to have a piston on bothside though. Im going to get some made from a shock guy after I do my 5 link front. Going to be SWEEEEEETTTT. Can be used with any suspension set up and drive awsomely on the road.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a0JEIjVBRC8

TheBigBoy wrote:Its all about technology. And the best by far improvement has come from toyota themselves.

The new cruisers have a hydrolic swaybar. Its basically a hydrolic piston and is piped (2 pipes, with each 1 way valves) to the rear on the same side so 1 cant travel up without the other travelling down = Holds just like a normal sway bar but has full articulation if set up propperly. My 1 is going to have a piston on bothside though. Im going to get some made from a shock guy after I do my 5 link front. Going to be SWEEEEEETTTT. Can be used with any suspension set up and drive awsomely on the road.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a0JEIjVBRC8

make sure to tell us how your swaybar turns out, might be interested.

that 'sort' of setup has been around for years. I did one about 7 years ago on a rangie. You only need the ram on one side, and a cetop3 diverter valve (lever operated - notch removed and weight placed on the end of the lever aka plumb-bob) and subplate mounted upside down. tap the P port into the return line from the PS box, T port to tank return. A& B to ram. Mount the valve spool axis E-W across the car so when you go around a corner the weight swings the lever/handle and puts pressure into the ram = twisting the swaybar and giving "active" suspension.

1MadEngineer wrote:

Assassin_Offroad wrote:A sway bar isnt a bad thing, if its suited to the purpose, and has the links in the correct spot for compression, and droop.

Its all about tuning the set up, and building in some adjustment.

But a properly dimensioned 4 link isnt difficult, and works/drives/ best.

agree fully, but by the sounds of it the OP just wants a cheap setup.

Not so much cheap but more something that is going to give me the best results but can still hold its original characteristics on road. hence the reason why ide prefer an xlink over the superior superflex arms, although they do a great job and are designed to be used at high speeds something that is designed to flex will do on and off road unless it has a lock out. with the current talks and ongoing investigation in new suspension laws i dont wanna run something on road that might add to stricter laws. will be running swaybars with disconnect. Not familiar with the 4link.

Your rear is a 4 link [or 5 link, if you inlcude panhard rod]

Stops the bushes from binding like the front arm set up.

Ok, I have no idea what 1mad is talking about with the weights. These are just pistons that are plumbed into eachother. So at the end of the day, how would a 5link with sway bars connected drive on the road????