Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hey just wondering what combinations give the most flex in a hilux (85mdl, with 91 cab and tub), at the moment i have (front) 2 inch lifted rears with extended shackles running commodore rear shock and that seems to flex pretty well (rear) is 3 inch rear springs with extended shackles which seems to flex bugger all. i have a wb 1 tonner and i am thinkin about trying to put the rear spings out of that in as they have thin leaves and look like they'd flex well and are about a foot longer.

im running a v6 and 37's if that makes any difference.....

any info would be very appreciated

Whats your budget?

Sounds like you've got the front sorted. Whats your rear shackle angle like?

What about IFS rears and inboarded shocks? Take the load leaves out, run a 1"-2" lift block to retain the height and use a anti-wrap/trac bar.

How wide are the WB springs? Might be too long and end up hanging out the back too much. You could move the front mount forward but lose clearance.

Or if you've got money TG rear springs...

G'day,
I don't know how they would work on your rig, but I've installed superior engineering's Drop shackles on my FJ40 on the rear leaf springs. I took it off road the other week and they have added a bucket load of travel.
I'm about to put them on the front as well ... after the power steering gets hooked up.. I think they are well worth a look at if your after flex.. but do your homeworkand look around. cause I'm not sure how they would go on your Hilux....

i have a budget round say 500ish i recn can stretch it though if need be

my rear shckle angke is crap its basically what you'd get with stock springs and extended shackles

have thought about ifs leaves, but then heard stories about ford xf rear springs and other utes with longer flexier springs now i've just got idea which way i should go

yeah the wb springs are the same width, wat do mean by hanging out the back like the springs phyically hanging to far out and kill departure angle or do u mean moving the diff back and makin my wheels hit?

as for drop shackles personally im not really into them but thanx for your info though much appretiated

If your happy with cutting and rewelding shackle mounts and spring hangers, then I would look around for a set of springs with an overall longer length but with the centre bolt and front half relatively similar measurement to the lux rears. This will keep the diff in the same position. Then run a slightly longer shackle and move mounts/hangers to suit.

Yeah, I meant hugely long springs will hang out the back and get caught on everything.

And I reckon drop shackles are all wank factor. Great for giving ramp flex but allow for little downward pressure when drooped. IMO..

g'day
I understand you thinking on the drop shackles... but when coupled with good shocks they have allowed me to have more wheel contact with the ground whilst traveling over some pretty rocky terain. so the "wank factor coment"? I dunno about that... when they actualy have given me what i wanted.. a compromise between leaf and coil sprung suspension at a budget price..... I looked at all aspects of my leaf suspension before buying the drop shackles and decided that other than a complete suspension upgrade to coil sprung like patrols. the finances told me that this was a way that i could have extra travel.

so I'm happy with it.

No worries mate, just my opinion. Glad your happy with them, just not my cup of tea.

yea same ere,im not a big fan of the drop shackles, apart from makin a leaf sprung 4wd look awesome and to make yourself look good they dont do much but its personal choice really.

what about going falcon rears ive heard a few people tell me that they work excellent but i think its the same as the wb springs,you have to cut and weld new hangers and shackles and alot of f!kin around.people have told me they get over 1 metre of flex out of the falcon rears but not sure how true it is.

or if you wanted something a little radical go coils or coilovers,all comes down to money and time though.

G'day,
... yeah I know about the down ward pressure problem.. thats why I went with large bore foam cell shocks with longer travel than recomended I knew that to get the best out of the drop shackles i would need to get some.."forced articulation" happening...

I would realy like to put in a four link suspension mod.. but as i said... the money stopped me. (the usual problem) lol.

I heard about the problems that plagued drop shackles and did my best to overcome these hassles... touch wood so far it has worked. I'll get some fotos next time i'm out and stick em up.
Cheers guys.. have a good one!

Hay mate i used early model ifs rears off a duel cab hilux up front, thay are about 100mm longer then anyother and dont have a load spring ,also mazda bravo rear springs, you can use them up front to. try those in the rear of yours with droped hangers and extended shackles, remove some leaves to tune them or tun them threw a set of rollers to reset them, I had to , try to acheve a flat or strait spring at rest, as flat as you can . 14" shocks leaning in at the top or gq, gu rear shocks from the reackers, there cheep and long.

We did a simular setup to a choped 60 but with 70searies rear in the rearand got 39 degrees diff angle.

hope that helps.

its all about retaining hight with long flat springs and long shocks and its eazy with a hilux cause there sprung over.
if you can do that you will get flex.

thanks heaps for the info guys, im thinkin ill leave the front how it it since its nice n soft, flex's well and has a good shackle angle, im thinkin ill pull these springs out of the 1 tonner i got and just have a look at them in comparison to the current rears and wouldnt mind seeing whats longer bravo or wb 1 tonner springs..... and im hearin what your saying about the whole flat spring thing, that makes alot of sense.

does anyone make dropped hangers for the back??

jaykabir6489 wrote:does anyone make dropped hangers for the back??

For the fixed pin or the shackle end? Not sure why you would want either?

That is correct .
If you can weld just make them, extended shackles at the rear of the spring on the rear of the truck.

is max flex related to max power?

sorry i didnt mean dropped hangers i ment just new ones to weld on incase i butcher the old ones cuting them off. would it be a really bad idea to just move the rear shackle mount backa bit and use extended shackles on these wb springs but just re drill the diff locating bolt on the spring.....so it sits in the right spot again. i here it makes the springs snap but i dunno if its all just crap....


just blew the rear diff today its only a 2 pin single pegger wich probably doesnt enjoy the v6 and 37s so project is slowing down a bit.
not to go off topic but i have a flogged out lsd that i wanna rebuild and put in instead anyone done this before that could gimmy some info also..


and about the max power... i'm not sure im sure you could relate it some how though lol:?:

i wouldn't bother with the lsd even when rebuilt there not much use i had one rebuilt that cost $880 and was no better then a open center in the bush its cheaper to go with a lockright

hmmm think your right..... wheres thew cheepest place 2 get a lockright from?....

I cut shims on the laser cutter at work and shimed the f#*k out of it, its almost a locked, it'll probably only last 6 months.
Just shim the f#*k out of it, weld one up or put a locka in.

the springs are tempard steel, there a bit hare to drill and yes thay will snap after while.

ok turns out the 1 tonner springs won fit the eyes for the bush's arnt big enough to fit the shackle pins and any bush that would be remotely useful, so im gunna go with the ifs rears, im assuming 2 inch ifs rears with my extended shackles would make it around the right hight'ish. and also now im finding in low range i hav enough torque to make the engine twist enough to make the 4wd selector hit the body........ any ideas?

I cut shims on the laser cutter at work and shimed the f#*k out of it, its almost a locked, it'll probably only last 6 months.
Just shim the f#*k out of it, weld one up or put a locka in.

how will i know how much to shim it? jig up some old axles with a torque metre? or something...

Hey mate,

2''lifted ifs springs and 2'' lift blocks will prob get it to sit flat and if you have long enough shackles you might not have to move the hangers, but you can buy them from snake and probably others if you stuff em.

Also you probably have a broken engine mount if the sticks hitting it will normally be the passanger side if it is broken replace both as your other one wont be far off breaking.

Cheers

Speak to the guys at Locktup4x4 for the lockright. I just got one for $499 delivered. Nice!

I dont think you'll need lift blocks with 2" lifted IFS rears. Try it and see, add em later if needed.

You would need at least a 200mm shackle to get away with not moving mounts, and IMO a 200mm shackle is unnecessary.

How long are your current rear shackles?

Also check your transfer mounts.

hey i have buds customs extended shackles i think there around the 200mm mark so ill see how it goes when the springs rock up

thanks for the heads up on the gearbox mount its f*cked, im thinkin of gettn a solid one but then again is that going to just bend something else?