Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I am concerned that the 6.5s are going to break my transfer case after hearing many stories of it happening, even with mild 2wd driving...

I have a mighty kong bracket as well as a RT ring (but not with me ATM), I was wondering if anyone has combined the two for maximum bracing?

BTW I have 31s and a stock 1.3L, and I am usually fairly light on the loud pedal...

How many bolts does the mighty kong pick up on the front of the case?

I"ve had the spidertrax mounts for years and haven't had a problem with up to 34 inch tyres and my gearing reduction spread between the transfer (4.9:1) and my diff gearing (4.57:1). I think thats the key, you need to spread the gearing reduction over both the transfer and diffs to build a reliable setup that distributes the load over more of the drive train.

Your mighty kong connects both passenger and driver side mounts together so I very Highly doubt that you will get any case cracking as there will be no load put on the case itself.

i run s4 rockhoppers (6.5 i think), locked diffs with 31s and i give it hell and never even broke a mount let alone cracked the case

im running just roctoy on mine and i've given it a fair hiding - no signs of abuse there yet... and im that guy that jams the zuk into 1st doing 30km/hr with that huge "CA-CHUNK!" they do if you dont match the revs just right... lol

I'm pretty certain it doesn't use any of the front bolts, just the mounting positions. It is hell strong, it will be a good skid plate!
I just figured while I have a roctoy ring here too I may as well use it, I might put it on as well, just for the hell of it.
Do you use standard bolts for the ring or do you need 5-6mm longer ones?

Ive go a rocky road mount and 34's was 32 not problems at all

Have you checked out the Zuks Offroad "Snatch" transfer bucket.
http://www.zuksoffroad.net/samurai_tcase.htm

Looks like it picks up bolts front and back of the case

lump_a_charcoal wrote:I'm pretty certain it doesn't use any of the front bolts, just the mounting positions. It is hell strong, it will be a good skid plate!

Correct and correct. I have one and it's rock solid. Picking up some of the other bolts would further help though I'd think.

Make sure you strengthen or use bigger washers etc to spread the load on the chassis or you'll possibly tear it instead. I've had no problems but have read stories of it happening.

ZUKPOWER wrote:i run s4 rockhoppers (6.5 i think), locked diffs with 31s and i give it hell and never even broke a mount let alone cracked the case

x2 I've got 32 inch Pedes, 5.14 gears and have only ever mildly bent the long arm, and I have bottomed out alot of times on the case too.

I've had a mighty kong on mine for a couple of years now and it has trail gear 6.5's. I strenghtened the chassis mount arms with some plate and I have the gorilla grip unbreakable mounts.

I run 31" pedes and have a GTi motor and it gets hammered on the streets every day and I've done a fair bit of nasty rock work too. I doubt you'd need the roctoy ring also but it'd be cool if you did and give the piece of mind that only a bit of overkill can provide.

I did consider the snatch one from ZOR but they couldn't ship it for less than about $160US...

VR Rodeo wrote:

ZUKPOWER wrote:i run s4 rockhoppers (6.5 i think), locked diffs with 31s and i give it hell and never even broke a mount let alone cracked the case

x2 I've got 32 inch Pedes, 5.14 gears and have only ever mildly bent the long arm, and I have bottomed out alot of times on the case too.

x3 I have 31" Simex and S4 gears and stock mounts n brackets (i welded some 15x15 rhs under long one, and one fillet in short mount, stock rubbers. I thrash the shit outta the thing and never broken anything.

i have the mighty kong running 6.5 , 4.88 diffs and 35's and never had an issue with the case , i do a fair bit of rock driving and driving in comps . i have the unbreakable mounts etc . i think the issue is standard you run soft mounts and the case itself is the bridge between the mounts , with either the kong or a roc ring you are adding a substantial strengthing plate stopping the case to try and rip apart , in saying that the kong mounts to where the mounts on the case are where as the mounts on the roc ring are bracing the front , in my veiw the kong is bracing the area most needing to be braced .

but if your on 31's or 32's either should suffice , i agree totaly with hoobz , a big point is to spread your gearing , if you run 3.9 diffs and have 6.5 pushing it will be alot more load on your transfer gears opposed to running 4.5 and 5.12 diff gears , abeilt it would suck on road gearing wise . helps not to have all your reduction in one area .

jai

Reckon it is a good idea to leave the stock rubber mounts in, like a fuse, to save something else tearing out?

lump_a_charcoal wrote:Reckon it is a good idea to leave the stock rubber mounts in, like a fuse, to save something else tearing out?

Not really .. why leave a weak link ?

love_mud wrote:

lump_a_charcoal wrote:Reckon it is a good idea to leave the stock rubber mounts in, like a fuse, to save something else tearing out?

Not really .. why leave a weak link ?

to save diffs, axels, CV, UNIs. would you rather replace a rubber or an axel?

I have the mighty kong case holder and the 6.5 gears. I also have twin locked and run 31's I have broken many mounts before the mighty kong but not a one from when I installed the mighty kong. I do not treat my car easy its flat out or broken. i have done frazer island from sydney then went and did the snow. never a problem.
As for the rubber mounts, get rid of them replace with a long bolt and 2 front shock mount rubbers from a EA to Ef falcon. This works great and you will not break them

What bolts do you all use to attach the rocktoy ring?

anyone got any other opionions on this.
i am in need of some reinforcement

I have a rocktoy ring if you want it... unused...

This is what i made up using a roctoy rockring as extra support after blowing up my 6.1 case with out it.

It held the transfer like this(already busted but you get the idea)

Untill a few weeks ago then this happend.These were 6.5 gears

But i do ask alot from this small transfer case

i do already have the rocktoy ring, strengthened long arm, custom short arm..
what im having problems with is the chassis mounts. i torn one off on the weekend.
i want to do a cradle set up like what is above, the snatch

this is what i have (pic is upside down)

lump_a_charcoal wrote:I have a rocktoy ring if you want it... unused...

how much?

$55 posted anywhere in Oz...

My transfer set up. I was goning to use a rocktoy ring but chris didn't have any cut when I fitted the case. so I cut mine out with a grinder.

Why pneumatic shifters?

why run pneumatic shifters? for coolness!, i guess?
yep i agree with sharing trans an diff gearing equally so you dont load up one component to much. the rock toy ring is a great starting point for a transfer case cradle with longer bolts an some washers. make it into a full skid/brace set up an do what all old school zukers have always done an use shackle bush's an tough bolts with locknuts. my set up is extended lwb 4.5 bundera difs f/r airs 38.5 locked boggers 6.5 transfer 16v auto coilover rear, coil front have fixed chass mount breaking using a bundy body mount instead of zuki tin. dont forget suzis were never meant to do what we have in mind for them! at least they are cheap not like my patrol ute.

Air shifters mean I can flick the switch to dissconect the front or rear when all bound up and keep on driving as soon as the the gears line up it disconnects. With just a lever you would have to have wieght on it waiting for every thing to unbind. Alowing me to do other things like work the rearsteer It also stops the chance of it poping out of gear, frees up my trans tunnel and looks cool

Rhett wrote:Air shifters mean I can flick the switch to dissconect the front or rear when all bound up and keep on driving as soon as the the gears line up it disconnects. With just a lever you would have to have wieght on it waiting for every thing to unbind. Alowing me to do other things like work the rearsteer It also stops the chance of it poping out of gear, frees up my trans tunnel and looks cool

you make some good points. i have to wait ages sometimes for the driveline to unbind. sucks really but i guess there is no way around it . air would be good.
so where do i find a ram??
and does that mean you have it on a arb solenoid so when you disconnect is goes piissstt

I got mine down the sunny coast but most hydrolic shops can get them I think. You could set them up with air locker solinods but I think it would cost more than my mechaical switches. I only have the tiny ARB compresser going into a very small tank, 1 litreish with 6 ports in it. One for feed in, one for pressure cut out switch for compressor 130cut out 110 start up, one for front locker with a regulater on it droping the locker back to 80psi, one for front disco, one for rear disco and one for high low range.