Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hey guy's just wonting to no how much work is it to put gq diffs under my disco??? what do i need to do and some pics would be good thanks..

hodgy

start by searching on here, heaps of info.

im about to buy a disco with gq diffs under it, then swop them over to my rangie.
the front is apparantly a straight bolt in with the radious arms, the panhard rod can be joined by cuttin and slippin one into the other and welded together. not sure on the drag link.
will need new control arm brackets on the rear, and new shock mounts. if you want to retain the ball joint fromt the a frame, cut it off an old diff and weld to the top of the gq diff. will need to run cruiser (i think) springs in the rear and the trol springs up front. (i think)
will need tailshafts made to suit, and brakelines made to suit aswell.
i will post some pix when i get it, may take a while though.
but i will say the thing looks absolutely horn

that would be grate thanks mrbenwithay...
why dont you use the disco???

Those that have ran a gq rear complained of vibrations thru the t/shaft so swapped to a lc80 rear with offset diff centre.

Loanrangie wrote:Those that have ran a gq rear complained of vibrations thru the t/shaft so swapped to a lc80 rear with offset diff centre.

Thats right.. I had GQ rear.. 1 expensive mistake

Don't listen to anyone who reckons it can be done without vibration.


Camo

V8 Rangie wrote:Thats right.. I had GQ rear.. 1 expensive mistake

Don't listen to anyone who reckons it can be done without vibration.


Camo

A DC rear shaft should fix that.

DC's still vibrate with a some of angle on them.

Slunnie wrote:DC's still vibrate with a some of angle on them.

Unless you've chopped a foot out the wheelbase, there's not enough angle to cause problems.
The diff head on my rangie is only 130mm off centreline, the pinion is 150mm off centre.

The whole idea of a DC shaft is the two ends can run at different angles without vibration. I think that's the original vibration problem, I don't see any extreme angles resulting from simply swapping in a centred rear diff.

KiwiBacon wrote:

Slunnie wrote:DC's still vibrate with a some of angle on them.

Unless you've chopped a foot out the wheelbase, there's not enough angle to cause problems.
The diff head on my rangie is only 130mm off centreline, the pinion is 150mm off centre.

The whole idea of a DC shaft is the two ends can run at different angles without vibration. I think that's the original vibration problem, I don't see any extreme angles resulting from simply swapping in a centred rear diff.

So you've added 150mm worth of angle over the length of the shaft.
I've put 100mm lift into mine, DC's front and rear with pinions at the correct angle and the DC shafts vibrate - all of them have. The angular range without noticable vibration isn't very big on them. An, no there has not been a foot cut out of the wheelbase.

The DC was never designed to run without vibration. You can clearly see that in the phase charts. You would need a CV to do that, but I do think that if you are going to use uni joints then the DC - DC shaft would be the way to go.

Slunnie wrote: So you've added 150mm worth of angle over the length of the shaft.

Not me, but the difference between the stock rear drive flange and one dead centre is 150mm max. This on a driveshaft that's around 800mm from flange to flange. That's ~10 degrees.

Slunnie wrote: I've put 100mm lift into mine, DC's front and rear with pinions at the correct angle and the DC shafts vibrate - all of them have. The angular range without noticable vibration isn't very big on them. An, no there has not been a foot cut out of the wheelbase.

The DC was never designed to run without vibration. You can clearly see that in the phase charts. You would need a CV to do that, but I do think that if you are going to use uni joints then the DC - DC shaft would be the way to go.

You are obviously talking about a D2 front DC shaft? With only a single DC joint and a single universal joint? I'm talking about using a shaft with a DC at each end. These run as smooth as CV's.

I've used DC joints in agricultural applications which run 45 degrees as smooth as they run straight ahead.

KiwiBacon wrote:

Slunnie wrote: So you've added 150mm worth of angle over the length of the shaft.

Not me, but the difference between the stock rear drive flange and one dead centre is 150mm max. This on a driveshaft that's around 800mm from flange to flange. That's ~10 degrees.

Slunnie wrote: I've put 100mm lift into mine, DC's front and rear with pinions at the correct angle and the DC shafts vibrate - all of them have. The angular range without noticable vibration isn't very big on them. An, no there has not been a foot cut out of the wheelbase.

The DC was never designed to run without vibration. You can clearly see that in the phase charts. You would need a CV to do that, but I do think that if you are going to use uni joints then the DC - DC shaft would be the way to go.

You are obviously talking about a D2 front DC shaft? With only a single DC joint and a single universal joint? I'm talking about using a shaft with a DC at each end. These run as smooth as CV's.

I've used DC joints in agricultural applications which run 45 degrees as smooth as they run straight ahead.

Front and rear shafts in a D2. The other end is irrelevant as the pinon angle follows the shaft angle and they're not misaligned with the transfer.

45 degrees and no vibration...... now I understand.

the car im putting them under is a comp car that gets driven lik 20 times a year and if a get it done wright it should be fine....

Here ya go hodgy this is how i did it with the cruiser rear but gq couldnt be much harder.
BTW it is Damo Big Micks mate from last winch challenge (white rangy R3DN3K plates), as i said if ya need a hand with anything just contact me.
I am also just considering a 5 litre conversion with the ZF box are you still going to do that to the disco.
Wasnt as hard as i expected the rear was realy just cutting off the spring mounts and all the little bits not required. I used the existing mounts for the radius arms cause they were only about 20mm off the rangy and the arms fit them only had to make washer to reduce bolt hole and weld in place i used the top machined part of the A frame mount and fabed up new sides, I used the original shock mounts cause i was alread using 80 series shocks for the long travel with a pin to eye adaptor so just removed the adaptor. That was the rear done except brake lines of cause.Oh and the load leveler needs to be removed as it doesnt fit (diff housing to big)
The front was all patrol except the spring mounts and the steering arm and the panhard have to be modded.
The pinion flanges on both need little bit of machining and new holes drilled to fit the rangy shafts but all in all was pretty easy.
And at 450 for front GQ with lockright locker and 400 for rear 80 with LSD and all 4.1 ratio way cheaper than maxis or anything.
The brakes were pretty easy i used the master of a disco the one with 2 outlets instead of four, putting one line to the front and using the gq flex line and brake setup. The other i put to the proportioning valve and blocked off the other outlet that is usualy for another front line in the proportioning valve.All of the steel lines i made new ones up that are rover one end and gq or 80s the other. This seems to work very well as the breaks are great by itself a massive upgrade.
Good luck if ya decide to go with it just be patient i made couple of costly mistakes but ya live and learn if ya need any help give us a yell i will try to help if i can.
Also here are some pics







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Slunnie wrote: Front and rear shafts in a D2. The other end is irrelevant as the pinon angle follows the shaft angle and they're not misaligned with the transfer.

The other end could only be irrelevant if it were always in perfect alignment with the suspension links. In which case the slip joint wouldn't be needed.
Clearly that's not the case, which is why you've got vibration.

Double DC shafts have no inherent vibration at way past the 10 degrees needed. It's not rocket science.

KiwiBacon wrote:

V8 Rangie wrote:Thats right.. I had GQ rear.. 1 expensive mistake

Don't listen to anyone who reckons it can be done without vibration.


Camo

A DC rear shaft should fix that.

Yep some tool told me that aswell.. spent 750 bucks on a custom DC shaft..if anything it made it worse

Camo

V8 Rangie wrote: Yep some tool told me that aswell.. spent 750 bucks on a custom DC shaft..if anything it made it worse

Camo

DC at each end?
I got quoted more than that for a single ended DC shaft.

KiwiBacon wrote:

Slunnie wrote: Front and rear shafts in a D2. The other end is irrelevant as the pinon angle follows the shaft angle and they're not misaligned with the transfer.

The other end could only be irrelevant if it were always in perfect alignment with the suspension links. In which case the slip joint wouldn't be needed.
Clearly that's not the case, which is why you've got vibration.

Double DC shafts have no inherent vibration at way past the 10 degrees needed. It's not rocket science.

The suspension points are very close to the DC locations and the pinion is at the correct angle. It needs a slip joint also to get it out.

thank damo
will look in to it and iff a do get stuck a will give you a buz...
have you broken anything alse now that you have made the diffs stronger???
hodgy

hodgy give curry a call he has them under his rover he got them to fit with not to many dramas just a bit of vibration on the front
cheers wayde

KiwiBacon wrote:

V8 Rangie wrote: Yep some tool told me that aswell.. spent 750 bucks on a custom DC shaft..if anything it made it worse

Camo

DC at each end?
I got quoted more than that for a single ended DC shaft.

wtf my front one cost $300 including modifying the drive flange and my rear was $250 including modifying output flange and brake drum both custom made single DC's from 2 different engineers
maybe I should start selling them if there worth that much lmao

rod hodge wrote:thank damo
will look in to it and iff a do get stuck a will give you a buz...
have you broken anything alse now that you have made the diffs stronger???
hodgy

That was on the old girl. I havent done it to the new one but maybe later when i can afford to do it again.
It was great to know that you could give it a bit of curry and get away with it.And the brakes were sensational. And rims were cheaper and more varients available.
The new one has just got airlockers F/R.
What are ya going ta do with ya maxis are ya gunna sell them as i may be interested. As my lockers are only 10 spline.

Cheers Damo

Oh by the way the patrol radius arms bolt straight into the original landy chassis mounts by using the landy rubbers.

Cheers Damo

91rangie wrote: wtf my front one cost $300 including modifying the drive flange and my rear was $250 including modifying output flange and brake drum both custom made single DC's from 2 different engineers
maybe I should start selling them if there worth that much lmao

I was quoted for a new shaft, but yeah if you can get them done that cheap then you should start advertising.

ya we will sell them we are going in the on track sss so we are just putting a new ball on the end of it and see how it go's but we will put the gq under it soon i think we have already sold them..
hodgy

rod hodge wrote:that would be grate thanks mrbenwithay...
why dont you use the disco???

no worries, still might be a while until i get it though.
not using the disco coz its a 2.8TD, and im sorry, but im a V8 man now. and i really cant be bothered to to an engine swop.
that and i love the rangies.
if its for a comp truck, then i wouldnt be to concerned about tailshaft vibration. just be prepared to change unis heaps. lol.

will do wayde you coming out the the ss on the 19???

UrbanRedneck wrote:Oh by the way the patrol radius arms bolt straight into the original landy chassis mounts by using the landy rubbers.

Cheers Damo

i have been getting a few things together for bolting gq patrol diff front and cruiser rear diff into my rangie. was looking under a gu today and thought the radius arms would be close to bolting in! you have now confirmed that for me! cheers mate!

timbocruise wrote:

UrbanRedneck wrote:Oh by the way the patrol radius arms bolt straight into the original landy chassis mounts by using the landy rubbers.

Cheers Damo

i have been getting a few things together for bolting gq patrol diff front and cruiser rear diff into my rangie. was looking under a gu today and thought the radius arms would be close to bolting in! you have now confirmed that for me! cheers mate!

I should also add that this is for i know 89 rangy on and discos as they are larger arm and hole to early rangy not sure to what year hope that helps.