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SWB an LWB Chassis differences

Tech Talk for Suzuki owners.

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SWB an LWB Chassis differences

Post by Gunmetal_45 »

Hi Guys,

Im looking at gettng a Sierra as my next 4wd, and I would pefer a LWB, however: I think im going to use Rocky-Road JP-eater kit (with Lux dffs). and i haven't had a great deal of a chance to compare the Chassis.

Are there any differences? as it apears they only deal with SWB models.
Has anyone used there kit?

Cheers!
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Post by droopypete »

The only diference I can think of (for your aplication) is the track width, they both came in narrow and wide track but I don't think it would effect the fitment of that kit.

A question, why the lux diffs?
Peter.
Cable bracing is the way of the future!

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Post by Gunmetal_45 »

Lux diffs, cause i can geta the high steer kit for the front diff to suzuki box from Rocky-road aswell, and the lwb im looking at getting is NT, so i want the extra width.

I would use MQ diffs probably if i didnt have to fab my own high steer. as they are practically give aways. which i still may do, as im going SPOA and will need to fab up my own perches anyway. (but lux diffs i think will just b easier)
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Post by alien »

Pretty sure the LWB runs the same leaf setup - so you shouldnt have issues there - however - check with an engineer if this is legally possible... Also - why lux diffs???? Plenty of tech. on here - and most important bits youll find are:
- increased unsprung weight
- lux diff with 33's has same clearance as zuk diff with 31's.

Dont forget youll also need to address bump stops, steering, brake lines, drive shafts (and pinion angles) and probably a trac-bar for the rear.
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Post by droopypete »

Gunmetal_45 wrote: (but lux diffs i think will just b easier)
"easier" is a VERY relative term.
Peter.
Cable bracing is the way of the future!

v840 said "That sounds like a booty fab, hack job piece of shit no offence."
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Post by Gunmetal_45 »

i understand the clearance suff, as it will be running 33", i have read most of the bible on here, before asking the Question.

the other reason for Lux diffs is i have an engineer that will allow them as they are SPOA already, and he doesnt mind the different leaves going in. and for Zook diffs SPOA is out of the question.

I will either do that Kit or do a coil onversion. as it is another way that my engineer will allow extra lift.

also he will engineer 33" on lux diffs or MQ diffsbut not on Zook diffs.

I understand "easier" is a relative term, but its not my first build:)
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Post by alien »

I dare you to go coils =P But you have to post build pics.

Has the engineer seen the rocky road kit??? Be interested to know if he will pass it...
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Post by Gunmetal_45 »

he has seen the rocky-road coil kit (was my original plan), and said it would be ok with lower springs ie: 3-4" extra lift max.

changed my mind to SPOA YJ kit as 3K+ for the coil kit v 1.5K for the leaf kit, plus diffs etc... for not such a huge gain.

I asked him about it and he seemed to think it will be ok.

I would do a custom coil kit if i had time, but really in the long run an off the self kit takes away alot of headaches. but it is still on the cards, i have a couple of weeks before i start gettin the stuff together, and will for on it over my uni break. (mature age student) 5 months off so im looking for a project.
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Post by ofr57 »

should read some reviews about rocky rock frst before you buy from them especially on pirate .... they dont have a good wrap due to very delayed shipping and some other things but i cant rember them

on the other thing the kit what forms to YJ springs is that
A) hard to get these springs
B) the rear mounting brackets dont suit a LWB from what i remember,

there is a member on here that has done it (longranger / lowranger .. something like that) he is from the states though and had to make the rear brackets .. its a red LWB on hilux diffs
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Post by droopypete »

Gunmetal_45 wrote: I understand "easier" is a relative term, but its not my first build:)
So long as you are going in with your eyes open.
We see lots of gung ho, first time wannabe truck builders here who get all there "advice" from American 4x4 mags then proceed to burn out very quickly once they get the grinder and welder out, if you have played the game before you will know what i am talking about.

Good luck with your build and I congratulate you for consulting an engineer before you start and also researching here as well.

One last piece of advice, don't assume that everyone who posts on the Internet knows what they are talking about (me included :lol: )
Peter.
Cable bracing is the way of the future!

v840 said "That sounds like a booty fab, hack job piece of shit no offence."
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Post by ofr57 »

droopypete wrote: One last piece of advice, don't assume that everyone who posts on the Internet knows what they are talking about (me included :lol: )
Peter.
http://www.rocky-road.com/yjkit.html ;)
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Post by lay80n »

If your going SPOA and only running 33's, dont even worry bout lifted springs, look for dead flat (or close to) springs and build a rear trac bar :D
Quick bit of guard work and you will have a nice wide long and stable car.


Layto....
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Post by alien »

i;ve got build pics of my SPOA on lux front leaves (WT zuk diff and 31s though)... clikc The UFO link below.
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Post by droopypete »

Gunmetal_45 wrote: changed my mind to SPOA YJ kit as 3K+ for the coil kit v 1.5K for the leaf kit, plus diffs etc... for not such a huge gain.
In my opinion the biggest advantage of the coils is the way they locate the diff, 33" tyres exert an extreme amount of leverage over standard, add to that the lower gearing you will need to turn them, and multiply that by the increased horsepower you will want to compensate for the heavier running gear equals AXEL WRAP!!!! locating arms will eliminate this.

I have a swb with a very low spring over zook diffs with 5.125 ratio's 6:1 transfer gears and 1.6 vit engine (engineered by the way :finger: :) ) I have solved my axle wrap issues (finally) but it has not been an easy journey, SPOA seems like a cheap and easy way to get lift, but it causes more problems than it solves.
Peter.
Cable bracing is the way of the future!

v840 said "That sounds like a booty fab, hack job piece of shit no offence."
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Post by droopypete »

ofr57 wrote:
droopypete wrote: One last piece of advice, don't assume that everyone who posts on the Internet knows what they are talking about (me included :lol: )
Peter.
http://www.rocky-road.com/yjkit.html ;)
Did you take that personally?
It wasn't aimed at you but if I was aiming it at anyone I would have named names :D
Cable bracing is the way of the future!

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Post by Gunmetal_45 »

Cheers for the advice guys, maybe coils will be the way to go, as im going to go diesel so wrap may be more of an issue than i thought.
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Post by droopypete »

I know this is the age old question, but why not get a hilux and save yourself a heap of cash?
The reason sierra's are very capable in the bush is due in no small part to their light weight, fit heavier diffs a way heavier diesel engine and you sort of negate all the reasons you bought a zook in the first place.
Peter.

PS, I am working up a sweat with all these tech based intelligent posts, I will have to post some shyte on chit chat to balance it out :lol:
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Post by Guy »

I would go an old dudlux with a 3l locker and some crawler gears, Way fewer engineering hassles.
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Post by Gunmetal_45 »

I like the notion of a Zook more than anything i spose, but i take whats been said onboard. i will start a build thread in about 6 weeks when i start.
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Post by ofr57 »

droopypete wrote:
ofr57 wrote:
droopypete wrote: One last piece of advice, don't assume that everyone who posts on the Internet knows what they are talking about (me included :lol: )
Peter.
http://www.rocky-road.com/yjkit.html ;)
Did you take that personally?
It wasn't aimed at you but if I was aiming it at anyone I would have named names :D
just helping out
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Post by Gwagensteve »

droopypete wrote: but why not get a hilux and save yourself a heap of cash?
Xmorechitchatthreadsthandroopyhasposted

You sound like you are going to commence a build that will take about 18 months to two years, and cost more than buying a hilux, gearing and locking it.

At the end of that process, you will have a car that's effectively a hilux that's cramped and full of annoying little bugs, engineered or not. that might be fine.

I've had three hiluxes, two sierras, and I've built heaps of others. I've also seen some cars built along the lines of what you describe. The reality of a car that's as modified as you are describing is not anything like the dream. You think you're going to get all the good points of a hilux and all the good points of a sierra, but you'll also get all the bad points of a sierra and all the bad points of a hilux, plus highlight any shortcomings in your decision making processes, budget, or fabrication skills.

PS MQ diffs are excellent for a SPUA conversion, but they are a terrible idea for SPOA - the driver's side spring mount is cast into the diff housing.

If you only want to run 33's on hilux diffs you'll be more capable on sierra diffs and 31's due to the lower weight and greater clearance.

I'd talk to some other engineers. Lots of sierras have been engineered with a SPOA on sierra diffs, and 33's exceed the 50mm rule for hilux diffs - the largest tyre on a hilux diff was a 205 r 16, which is 29" tall. to stay within the 50mm NCOP rule, your stuck on a 31" tyre.... which is basically the same limit on sierra diffs.

There's no question 33's are legal on MQ diffs - possibly even 34's.

Personally, I'd take a legal, low, SPUA sierra on 34's than a tall legal sierra on 31's (or 33's really)

Just my 2C.

:armsup: for talking to an engineer before getting out the grinder!

Steve.
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