Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hay just wondering on how strong the ln 106 front diffs are with a locker have been told they are weak but not shaw . alsow would 35's fit on a ln 106 hilux with 4 inch of lift an a gard chop any help would be great as i am just starting out

Mate I just fitted a Lockright to my front diff and love it. With 35's you will probably start to break things depending on how hard you drive, but the CV joint will go before the diff will. Check out www.locktup4x4.com for a set of dirty 30 cv joints and axles and the pproblem is solved. I have a 2 inch lift with 33 " tyres and they rub like hell so will be doing a body lift. With some guard trimming and perhaps moving the axle forward you should be able to fit 35"s with a 4" lift, but I'm not 100% sure as I dont want to go bigger than 33"s.

how would you move the diff forward i dont realy want to fit fear spring in the front is there any other way of doing this cheers

You can drill the preches on the axle behind the hole already drilled which will then push the axle forward. As I am only running 33" I dont need to do it so I'm not 100% if this is the only or best way.

I had 2" lifted springs and extended shackles, with 35"s when compressed the tyre would rub a lot on the firewall, which is fun when the steering wheel flys out of your hand.

Now have RUF and clears by a mile.

Can always re-drill the spring perches 25mm back.

Go a high pinion in front. They are stronger than hilux low pinion. 105 cruisers are 4.3's and some bundies. Keeps ya tailshaft high as well.

cheers in regards to the hi pinion diff centre i was reading in a mag that are same stregnth as the hilux

the diffs cant be that weak im running 37's on stock diffs with a commo v6 and i flog the guts out of it and never had a problem...

so r u saying you want to go 4 inch lift or you already have it, because if you dont why not just do a ruf conversion and and ifs rears, gives you plenty of lift and a really nice ride

I have a 4" lift which is 3" lifted springs and 2" extended shackles and with 33's they hit the guards pretty hard...

I redrilled the spring perches 30mm forward and moved the diff forward and the tyres still hit the guards but only lightly.

I also extended the bump stops to start compressing 15mm before the shock bottoms out... Full flex they still bottom out.

I had to eventually run a 80 series high pinion front diff with the 4" lift as the tail shaft angle made the tailshaft vibrate once going over 60-70 km/h in 4wd.

Also with this i also had the problem with the 4" lift and reasonable flex, the drivers side shock hits the 'J' arm on full travel down.. Thus i had to go high steer to fix the problem of the shock keep bending....(moves the steering arm out of the way of the shock)

Diffs and cv's are onle as weak as how you treat them.... You can be lucky and you sometimes arn't....If you flog the guts out of it you will eventually start breaking it.... when it is slippery, the strength is not really a issue, but when you are trying to drive something hard in rocks (high traction) its when you lift a wheel, spin, come down, then bites traction hard.... Some thing has to give... usually a cv as said.

I know i have broken 2 crown wheels and 2 cv's like this.

Having said that, lockers fix the need to always drive things hard (some tracks you have to but) you can usually crawl things- if you lift a wheel you will usually still drive it.

Brad

im starting a work in progress ute . an i am looking at about 4 inch i thought about ruf but a bloke on here with ruf said his got the death wobbles at about 90k's an im not in to that as it will be my daily driver (32's on road) with 35's if i can fit them or even 33's just tryin to get good ground clearance on the diffs in the rocks any help would be great cheers. as for the diffs would reduction gears help take strain of the diffs just to be safe

dont think the ruf is the reason why he is getting death wobbles... my mate is running the same thing and has no problems....

I am running 4.88 diff gears (had 4.3's standard LN106) and with 33's the spedo is pretty much spot on... would suit 35's better.

The problem is the 4.88 have a smaller pinion and as a result are not as strong (though i have not broken pinion gears yet).. strength wise - 4.3's would be better with transfer case crawler gears.
I went 4.88's because then all the ratio's are close to standard.. with 33's and 4.3's the RPM on the highway was good but in low range i was driving things alot faster then i wanted.

When i change my springs i will be going RUF as i want to run 35's soon. But i already have everything else in place for the suspension to work properly.

There is a alot of different combinations with the setups, there is not always alot of difference between them... It is never as clear cut as changing one thing then just driving it, you will end up finding problems along the way... but this is a good place to ask for them....

Brad

jaykabir6489 wrote:the diffs cant be that weak im running 37's on stock diffs with a commo v6 and i flog the guts out of it and never had a problem...

Put an airlocker in the front and you will smash a cv every half hour if you drive it like you claim too.

cheers mate, i was trying to avoid trial an erore but its just part of life i guess. thanks for the info on the diff ratios im thinkin 4.55's an crawler gears with 33's (turbo diesel). cause i dont want my rig revin its guts out on the hwy. an the 35's idea is out the window for now i think i'll start of small an work my way up

yeh good idea... you'd be surprised where you'd go with 33's... and diff locks...

That will be a good combination, 33's, 4.55's and crawler gears...

The 4.88's are better suited to 35's i think.

I noticed a huge difference when i went 4" lift and 33 muddies... Then because i had the clearance i try'd driving harder and harder tracks... thats when i started breaking things.

I have spent alot of money and have bought alot of different things and IMOP the best value for money thing you can buy is front and rear lockers (does not matter the brand as i have used lockrites and airlokkers) This and if you are handy enough making some diff guards and good strong side rails.... Not every thing has to be expensive...Just ask on here and find out peoples opinions before you spend money on something and then have to change it later.

Sorry for the long story... hope it helps

Brad

cheers thanks for the info brad

brad wats imop cheers

In My OPinion? IMO or IMHO is usually used..

cheers mate

optima wrote:cheers mate, i was trying to avoid trial an erore but its just part of life i guess. thanks for the info on the diff ratios im thinkin 4.55's an crawler gears with 33's (turbo diesel). cause i dont want my rig revin its guts out on the hwy. an the 35's idea is out the window for now i think i'll start of small an work my way up

I run 4.88's and 31's on road and the motor revs at around 3100 doing 100, which isn't to bad, so i wouldn't be worried about revving it to hard, i run 35s with ruf and x over with next to no lift, 2inch max i'd say, and my tyres don't touch my guards or firewall at any point in articulation, my suspension is setup for around 80% droop so most of the trucks flex is droop which suits me as it works well and keeps the trucks centre of gravity down low.

You can also weld machined rings to the outside of the cv it's self which stops them breaking apart as easy, but then you'll break hub gears unles theyre upgraded.

But different horses for different courses.

optima wrote:brad wats imop cheers

Yeh it was... 'in my opinion'