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80 rear bearing locknut PCD
Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 10:52 am
by 7evans
I am chasing the pcd of the wheel bearing nut of the rear of the 80 series.
I've tried a few stores and some don't even know what your talking about, Toyota said they can not sell me one.
So, I'm going to make a few so need that info before I pull it apart.
Cheers in advance...
Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 12:47 pm
by ledgend80
are you trying to make a socket for the rear wheel bearing. if so i can have a look at the one i made for you. all i did was get a bit of round pipe and got 3 bolts, cut the head off the bolt and welded it to the pipe bit crude but it worked
Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 12:58 pm
by 7evans
Yep thats pretty much it. or I'll probably do it properly and cut a disc with the plasma, drill the holes to match the pcd and weld bolts through it, then a nut in the centre and done. So I'll make a few at once
Re: 80 rear bearing locknut PCD
Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 8:30 pm
by land8079
7evans wrote:I am chasing the pcd of the wheel bearing nut of the rear of the 80 series.
I've tried a few stores and some don't even know what your talking about, Toyota said they can not sell me one.
So, I'm going to make a few so need that info before I pull it apart.
Cheers in advance...
You cun purchase this tool from don kyat, bout 20 bucks i think.
Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 10:27 pm
by cozzav8
Use a screwdriver with a soft hammer, done millions of repacks and never used a tool, never buggered the nut either cause they dont need to be that tight
Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 1:15 pm
by 7evans
I knew I'd get these types of answers but when your 600 k's from the nearest town and just over 2800k's from the nearest kyatts, with a serious case of the CBF's in a workshop I may as well make something for my benifit. I know screwdrivers could do, but may as well make something to pass my time and look like I'm working. So hole centres would be handy.
thanks anyway guy's...
Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 1:17 pm
by Dane
cozzav8 wrote:Use a screwdriver with a soft hammer, done millions of repacks and never used a tool, never buggered the nut either cause they dont need to be that tight
What torque do you set the screwdriver/hammer to?
Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 6:49 pm
by Shadow
Dane wrote:cozzav8 wrote:Use a screwdriver with a soft hammer, done millions of repacks and never used a tool, never buggered the nut either cause they dont need to be that tight
What torque do you set the screwdriver/hammer to?
Page 4 of the bogan mechanic's handbook
I made my own tool out of a plate of 6mm steel and 3 high tensile(series 500) metal cutting screws which I then ground down to about 15mm long.
Cut a square hole in the plate it to take a torque wrench.
Works great.
have seen the tools at sunstate 4wd parts but I'm glad I made my own anyway
As for PCD, i will measure my tool when i call in to dads house next as his shed is the designated workshop. Hopefully someone can get it for you sooner though.
Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 9:04 pm
by fester2au
I've been looking at this the last week also as my rear is apart and I have a spare nut. If memory serves me right (it was last week after all) the PCD is 58mm and the holes will take about an 8mm rod.
I was gunna get a bloke I know to water jet some plates for me with a 3/8 drive hole and the stud holes and weld in some bar. Was gunna do some in 4mm stainless plate orr 5mm mild and bung them on ebay as I'd heard they were only available at Toyota and were dear but if they are truely $20 at Don Kyatt or similar it's hardly worth the effort. May as well just make a single by hand for myself.
Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 9:10 pm
by Shadow
fester2au wrote:I've been looking at this the last week also as my rear is apart and I have a spare nut. If memory serves me right (it was last week after all) the PCD is 58mm and the holes will take about an 8mm rod.
I was gunna get a bloke I know to water jet some plates for me with a 3/8 drive hole and the stud holes and weld in some bar. Was gunna do some in 4mm stainless plate orr 5mm mild and bung them on ebay as I'd heard they were only available at Toyota and were dear but if they are truely $20 at Don Kyatt or similar it's hardly worth the effort. May as well just make a single by hand for myself.
you need to use strong bar for the pins, like hardened?
I tried mine at first with just some 8mm bolts, but the bolts bent very easily.
The don Kyatt one uses about 10mm hex rod with the last 5mm turned down to about 8mm to gain strength.
Swapping to high tensile screws solved the problem for me, and whilst it looks a bit bodgy it works very well
Also, i think 8mm was slightly too big for the opins from memory, and i had to use 6mm bolts, maybe thats why they were so weak.
Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 9:17 pm
by fester2au
Yeah shadow can't remember if 8mm was a good fit or tight. 5/16 might be better. Looked at it and just haven't got around to doing it. How long were your pins. I was thinking and hoping that given the load is not high that if the pins were short it might be OK. I was thinking only around 20-30mm or what ever was the minimum to clear the tube. Rather use an extension bar on the ratchet than llong pins on the tool. Was also tossing up using say 10mm bar with the bases machined down for the same reason. The more I hear the less it's worth making many though.
Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 9:23 pm
by Shadow
fester2au wrote:Yeah shadow can't remember if 8mm was a good fit or tight. 5/16 might be better. Looked at it and just haven't got around to doing it. How long were your pins. I was thinking and hoping that given the load is not high that if the pins were short it might be OK. I was thinking only around 20-30mm or what ever was the minimum to clear the tube. Rather use an extension bar on the ratchet than llong pins on the tool. Was also tossing up using say 10mm bar with the bases machined down for the same reason. The more I hear the less it's worth making many though.
I think my pins are about 25mm long and thats enough to clear the tube happily. And I do have to use an extension on my torque wrench with that setup.
The screws I used are no more than 5mm in diameter and the more I think about it the more I think 8mm wouldn't fit.
The one I saw at don kyatts the pins looked about 40mm long which is perhaps why they've used the 20mm hex bar etc.
I havent seen a toyota tool so the don kyatt tool might just be a direct copy.