Outer Limits 4x4 Board

has anyone installed a redarc dual battery controller? im getting one to run my winch off both batterys but was wondering if i should get the 200A model considering the winch can draw 400A for a short period of time, or if the 100A will do fine.

i was runnin my winch on 100 and it was fine! but then my winch was runnin on the main battery anyways so it didnt matter!

Redarc's are a dual battery system and not suited to winching applications.
Far better to have a solenoid/switch parallel the batteries.



ed

The 100a redarc (sbi112) is capable of 400amp rush current, probably not recommended for a big winching session, but certainly more than enough for paralleling your batteries together to start the car (assuming your cables can handle this).

For peace of mind, i would go the larger model if your budget will stretch. Why not run the winch of your main battery which the alternators senses etc as per 99% of recommended winch installations?

Thy,

The redarc battery systems are only a solenoid with a brain controlling them rather than a switch in the cabin so using them to joint batteries will not be a drama as long as your cable can handle it.

Cheers

As soon as you apply such loads (winching), you'll get sufficient voltage drop to trip your redarc's "brain" (they're only a VSR, not really that 'brainy') which will open the contacts (whilst carrying 200A odd).
You'll then be running off your primary battery only (defeating the whole purpose) and will rapidly burn out your contacts in the redarc with such usage.
Cable guage is irrelevent in this example
As stated above redarcs are not suited to winching duties.



ed

or if you follow the instruction on redarc's website on how to have the batteries linked in when winch you will have both batteries available.

http://www.redarc.com.au/pdfs/Specs/SBI ... 20BOTH.pdf

psycronic wrote:or if you follow the instruction on redarc's website on how to have the batteries linked in when winch you will have both batteries available.

http://www.redarc.com.au/pdfs/Specs/SBI ... 20BOTH.pdf

That will work with a small load only.
The SB112 in the circuit is rated at 100A continuous duty, whereas the load from an average 4WD winch will often exceed 400A, consequently passing over 200A through the Redarc. This constitutes a *significant* fire hazard.
The drawing referred to is a schematic drawing, not a circuit diagram, and may or may not function depending upon the ratings of all components involved (which would be stated in a circuit diagram). It is used for marketing purposes only, as would be recognised by anyone with the skills to adequately answer the original question.


Can I ask why people with little understanding of the topic will continuously argue? I can appreciate good intentions etc, but unless you have at least a reasonable knowledge of the principles involved you are very unlikely to offer useful advice.
Example: I know little about Nissans, so you'll never see a post by me offering advice in this regard, whereas I've been driving 60 series Toyotas for over 20 years so feel reasonably competent making suggestions.
This is a serious question, not an attempt to shit-stir, so answers offered in same fashion greatly appreciated.




ed

Thylacine

I mentioned nothing about the load handling of a redarc correct if the currect exceeds the rated continous 100amps you will burn the contacts out.

I was refering to you calling the redarc a dual battery system not a solinoide when all they are is a glorified solinoide.

If they are only a VSR why then can the redarc detect when your battery has a fault?? Which in the new model SBI12 the BRAIN flashes to indicate battery fault where as the old model SBI12 did not.

In the new model redarc have dropped the single led and now the whole Control modual lights up to idicate when the system is linked.

And as for the open circuit problem you could always us the override function with a dash mounted switch.

You are correct about people chiming in on things they know nothing about but having sold and fitted Redarc products for the last 6 years, I would think that I have a fair knowledge on their product

Cheers
Glenn

I never stated that a redarc unit was anything other than "a glorified solinoide" (sic), and that actually sums up my general opinion of them pretty well.
I said a solenoid or switch was preferrable to the redarc (due to the redarc's switching at battery-sensed voltage).

The override function, no matter how it is operated is only that. It overrides the units sensing and simply closes the solenoid. You're still looking at the same contacts in the same solenoid with the same current-rating.

As for new models having the ability to sense battery faults, this is something that I'm unaware of. I'd bet though that they don't actually sense faults, as opposed to indicating when a certain criteria is met, which could indicate a specific battery fault, but that only. Realistically, using a simple 555-timer switching a latched solenoid would allow far greater amounts and degrees of control than simple voltage-sensing, for near-nil increase in complexity.

I like simplicity myself, so have a system that joins my batteries only when both my engine is running and alternator is charging. No power to winch until selected with manual 1/2/Both battery switch, which immediately disconnects dual battery system. All done with relays/solenoids/switches, no electronics, so I do appreciate the difference. If you want to actually control something accurately, electronics are the go, but using such to perform simple switching is just complicating things for the sake of it.



ed