Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Thought I'd start a topic similar to woops.

The TD42 is the replacement for my POS 2.8TD which just recently burnt its clutch , And seein that i had 36 swampers waitin to go on, I decided that keepin my factory 4.6 diff ratios and just changing the engine will be the go.

Now , I'd explain to you all that this is my first time rebuilding a diesel engine.

I worked at a cylinder head workshop for a year which i learnt a few things there.

Anway to start things off..

The TD42 was stripped and inspected - the head had a few lovely cracks on it - put that aside to see if i can find a replacement head and use the exising injectors etc on the replacement.

If anyones got a TD42 head - give me a bell (they're hard to get )

ordered an engine rebuild kit .

1400 was the cost from BURSONS auto parts which included pistons, liners, bearings and gasket kit.

After inspectin the old liners and askin a few questions about it on this forum, I decided against doin it myself as RedRover kindly pointed out that i'd still need to surface machine the block once new liners are put in.

Not havin the necessary equipment to remove liners (eg welder as a few suggested) I took the block to 'repco' as I had already asked a few people in the yellow pages and neither liked their attitude or the workshops.



Repco was pretty helpful, they rang back with a quote - $660 - bit dear i must admit, but they cleaned the block and put liners in and machined each liner to the piston size that came with the kit. One liner was out by a bit they said - so in the end... i guess it was worth havin the block sent away.



All i have to do hopefully in the week coming is to assemble everything together to have the bottom end fully rebuilt by the weeks end.

Question - when i got the engine - the head, rockers and the rods were removed and put in the rocker cover. The nissan manual states that the rods are to go back in their previous positions. What do u recommend??

Once bottom end is rebuilt, I'll be chasin a clutch - Its been suggested that I get one from Direct clutch in Brisbane (near where im located) and they'll do u a heavy duty package for $550.

The head has been quoted fully supplied and rebuilt from Gilberts (my old work) at mates rates at $900/1000 ish. Will see if i can trade in my old 2.8 TD head off the previous engine that was in the patrol for a cheaper cost if possible.

Finally sourced a gearbox locally and once engines rebuilt,, will be puttin the box and block together.

Suggestions anyone?? - Do i put the gearbox in the patrol FIRST b4 the engine??

Or bolt the two together and hope the hoist/crane is strong enough to carry em both

Will be replacin the radiator with a TD42 item as the 2.8 td is a little smaller.

Will be posting updates now and then on my progress and a few more pics.

Regards
TOM

You cant get your head reconditioned?? would that be better than a second hand one that you have no history on?

Braver man than me rebuildin!

Hope all goes well for ya Mr.

You doing anything else to it? head work? Cam? etc..?

Thanks mate...

Soon as i find a head... otherwise using the head from my old work at 900 bux fully reco'd - will prolly get it ported and polished a bit..

anyone recommend cams?? While im rebuilding.. is the stock cam good enough?? as i plan to go forced induction at some stage in the future.. But right now.. prolly for the next 40 thousand kms ill be running n/a to save up more finances for the turbo OR supercharger.

Let me know fellas

TOM

IMO Keep cam standard

Bazzle

Tom,

I've just got my cyl head back from the shop. No cracks or warps to be seen but was $$$ as the shop replaced all the precombustion chambers and valves. I supplied the guides/seals/welsh plugs. But it looks like new and will be putting it in today. Unless youve got a strong engine crane/lifting tackle, put gearbox in first then engine. I THINK the dry weight of the TD 42 is around 430kg's.

Nice pics of the block. Post some more if you can during the re-build process--will be interested to see how someone else does it...

Nick

What r u doin with the crank? The rods will be numbered 1-6. Just make sure you assemble them correct with the bearings. The bores will have been machined the suit the pistons. Normally they mark which one in which pot, however providing the clearances are exactly the same it shouldn't matter. Hey I put a second hand one in no.4 and you would never know, its sweet as and used no oil goin to sundown & back. If you had the crank machined & got the sized bearings I would put the correct piston to the correctly numbered rod (i'm fussy like that). You should already have new little ends (gudgens) as well to fit with the new pistons. Technically if everything is machined with new gudgens & the same tolerences it won't matter which way you put them in. The numbers on the rod face towards the passenger side, however it is critical to ensure the piston goes in the right way! The book will tell you. I hope I haven't confused ya?

Also what sized head gasket? There r different ones depending on how much the block & head r machined. Noramally if it is going to b turboed put the thickest on.

Cheers

Measure your pushrods. If they are all the same size then you will be able to adjust the wear out of them with the rocker. The only time it will be a problem is when they are differnt lengths ( like in old Chrysler engines).
If they rattle locate which one then move the rockers to different cylinders to see if they go quiet that way.
I had this with a blue motor Holden once, the client had removed the head himself & we replaced it but the lifters were noisy. All we did was move the rockers around until they were quiet & it fixed the problem. Didn't hurt the engine either it went for another 100,000k before we finally replaced it.

Thanks everyone. Will get right on to it this week. Bloody night shifts.

Pretty much cant get the head reco'd - cracks between the precomp chamber and the combustion chambers. - Pretty much rooted. So goin to try to source another one.. Last alternative would be to get one supplied outright by my old work @ 900/1000 ish.

Will get more pics of the pistons etc when they go in.

Thanks for the info on gearbox etc - Most likely will jack up the gearbox and bolt it in its position with a car stand under it to support it while the engine goes in. -

Someone mentioned the gearbox needed to be rotated to allow the engine to go in due to the starter motor?? - anyone shed light on that??

Keep ya informed.

TOM

Thats only if you are putting the gearbox in after the engine, put the gearbox in first it will be easier with the engine out as you will be able to do it through the engine bay.

Update time.

After a bit of screwing around financially and waitin for the right moments. And being out of work for a whlie.

Laid out all the pieces and what had to be done for the night - which was to basically assemble much of the bottom end as possible - as shown in this pic. dont mind the xxxx and the rum in the back ground - motivation



then started assembling



To where i am up to now .. bottom end nearly done.. just gotta reinstall oil pump and sump and front end (balancer, cam etc)



Now heres a pic to explain the old head being no good.....



A head finally found its way into my garage - (thanks to Carl Coight) who supplied an excellent head below



which i took straight to Gilberts Cylinder heads to get a full reco - The result was - few new valves, new precomps, etc etc. Looks awesome.


and


So far... after reconditioning the head ... on advice from Paul Gilbert.. i took the injectors to South East Diesel Services who quoted the injectors at 65 dollars each and the injector pump overhaul at 600 dollars. Will be picking it up shortly and assemble it to the block asap.

TO COME......

cam installation and front end
head installation,
injector pump/injectors
sump
ancillaries. and etc etc....

how much $$ have you spent so far rebuilding this? can you be specific on prices eg: head $300, pistons $150 etc etc..

robbie wrote:how much $$ have you spent so far rebuilding this? can you be specific on prices eg: head $300, pistons $150 etc etc..

Most certainly...

I sourced my ENGINE REBUILD KIT from bursons auto spares at a cost of $1400 - which included pistons, piston rings, liners, bearings and a full gasket kit.

The BLOCK was taken to repco and they took it to brisbane to have the block cleaned and old liners removed and new ones installed (from the kit) and measured to make sure that all liners are the same size (one of the liners was out by a bit so it was good to have it checked, and the block was decked. Total cost was 600 dollars.

The FULL HEAD RECONDITION (provided your head is good) set me back 700 dollars - which was valves refaced, seats faced, new guides, new precomps (old ones were farked) and any valves that were bent/ no good were replaced with 2nd hand ones from out back of shop) and a shave.

The INJECTOR PUMP & INJECTORS - mine were no good and had to be replaced/reconditioned. Cost was 65 dollars per injector and 600 for the injector pump full reco with new shaft etc.

Still more to come as i go along.

Sounds likeyour re-build GQ is progressing well.

My last 3 liners have finally arrived and have just finished building a tool to remove the old liners. I measured all my liners (Nissan supplied) and all were spot on. Measured all the new pistons and all came up COLD at 95.930mm. Warmed them up a bit and all came up to 95.940 exactly.

I wasnt going to get my block decked as i thought this might increase the liner protrusion past the 0.09mm that the manual specifies as the maximum.

Interested to know--did you have to get your crank ground at all? I've gone to 0.25US with mine. BUT the crank was only just slightly over spec.

Nick

Took the crank to an engineering workshop to pretty much have the crank checked and said no worries and gave it back.

TODAY - gotta find a torque wrench that does 170 nm... :( mine only does up to 160... (for main end caps)

Goin to see if kennards or toolshop hire them.

then torque bottom end to specs and start piecing the front end back on (oil pump, water pump timing case, cam etc)

Wish me luck

TOM

Make sure you clean all the main bearing caps properly where they mate to the block as even the smallest amount of dirt or lint here can increase the clearances. Also make sure the caps are aligned properly with the corresponding cap in the block. If you've fitted them properly, you shouldnt be able to feel any ridge where the 2 halves meet. Gently tap them home with a rubber mallet on either side of the cap, not in the center. Also torque bolts up progressivly from center cap first finishing with the outside caps last.

Good luck

Nick

Woop wrote:Make sure you clean all the main bearing caps properly where they mate to the block as even the smallest amount of dirt or lint here can increase the clearances. Also make sure the caps are aligned properly with the corresponding cap in the block. If you've fitted them properly, you shouldnt be able to feel any ridge where the 2 halves meet. Gently tap them home with a rubber mallet on either side of the cap, not in the center. Also torque bolts up progressivly from center cap first finishing with the outside caps last.

Good luck

Nick

YUP all done.. spent most of yesterday morning cleaning everything b4 puttin the new bearings on the main caps and bolting them up to the specified torque out of the book. So far crankshafts bolted in and all caps are torqued up. Just gotta work on the sump and timing case and camshaft.

This is taking too long,, but i cant rush it as i want it done properly...

TOM

Looking good TOM !!!!

Will have to come down and help you finish off the XXXX you don't like

More updates....

Injector pump and injectors arrived, AS well as my new clutch.

Thanks to south East Injector Services for the reco of my pump



and this lovely clutch from Direct Clutch in Albion .. Im excited.. !!!!!



Got the rear main seal in


Now gettin the front part assembled. So far all the gear drives are in now - and the timing was a bit of a hassle to get lined up properly.. but i eventually got there....

Installation of cam



Installation of Injector pump



completed with idle gear drive..



COMING UP

Installation of Timing Case, SUMP, Cylinder head, and water pump.

Cheers!!!

Nice Legs Tom !

Looking good Tom. My block is at the shop having the cam bearings and crank ground and clearances checked so hopefully i'll be doing the assembly thing as well soon. One thing i did notice with my timing cover was that the long studs that locate the timing cover to the block had attached themselves to the aluminium timing cover through electrolysis making removal veery difficult.. This was the source of a water leak where the front plate mates with the timing cover. Might be worth checking yours although it looks from the pics to be ok.

I removed my cylinder liners my self with this tool i made up. Worked pretty well once i got going.

Nick

Are you putting any molly grease on your bearing shells and cam lobs for start up

duncan wrote:Are you putting any molly grease on your bearing shells and cam lobs for start up

Thanks duncan. you just pointed out something that I completely overlooked.

will remove cam and put moly grease on the lobes and reinstall the cam

Oh well.. im learning as i go

You can Grind the Cam i have a petrol grind my cam done by IVAN TIE CAMSHAFTS GOES HEAPS BETTER

Indeed i could have re-grinded the cam. - but im just chasing factory specs atm on a limited budget as well.

SO far... today put timing case on,


then water pump.


Ran out of gasket glue for the sump, so it'll have to wait til I get some more from auto shops.

TO DO....

SUMP on... HEAD bolted on, ROCKERS bolted on, ROCKER COVER, and buy a harmonic balancer.. then it should nearly be done

Today...

sump bolted on...



Head bolted on... and torqued to specs in gregorys.







Rocker gear bolted on....



TO COME...

Adjusting valve clearances, rocker cover on, water pump and thermostat. Then clutch installation.

TODAY... put the engine/gearbox plate on then put the clutch assembly on.

Laid out the clutch assembly,



then put flywheel on and torqued it to specs



Then clutch and pressure plate and torqued to specs



Put engine mounts on as well.



Was going to do the valve clearances, but one problem, with the engine all sealed up there was no way of knowing the timing. And with my harmonic balancer on order from sydney, I will have to wait for that one so i can use the harmonic balancer to use the timing marks on it to work out the timing for the valves.

Itis looking good mate.Should not be to much longer and you will have to come up this way for a day trip out to D'aguler power lines.

ludacris wrote:Itis looking good mate.Should not be to much longer and you will have to come up this way for a day trip out to D'aguler power lines.

Oh for sure man.. im itching BIG TIME to get out there..

Seeing my truck sittin there lookin miserable makes feel exactly the same way.

Cant bloody wait.. Engines goin in the next few days and ill adjust valve clearances, harmonic balancer etc while in engine bay

Once done.. 1000 kms of varying driving to run it in.. then straight to the bush

Tom, just curious to know what sort of GASKET GOO your using for the gaskets? Also what thickness head gasket did you end up using?

Nick

What sort of $$ are you up to Tom and Nick?


And what did you replace each? maybe a kinda list to show what sort of coin each went through