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1990 carby tuning
Posted: Sat May 08, 2004 11:23 pm
by built4thrashing
does any one know how to tune a carby on a 1990 sierra (1324cc) mines running really shitty wont idle properly
Posted: Sun May 09, 2004 7:22 am
by Toos
Might be a stupid question but have you put a tuneup kit thru it. I overhauled mine making sure to clean and blow out all drillings really well and now it runs like a dream.
Posted: Sun May 09, 2004 12:57 pm
by SLOWLJ
To clean the carb (roughly/quickly)
1. switch spark plug leads 2 and 3
2. then start the car
3. let it cough and spluters a bit then kill the motor
4. put the leads back to norm and it might be ok
Note this is a quick fix which I have seen work heaps of times but it is a quick fix and your carb probly needs a proper clean.
Posted: Sun May 09, 2004 3:41 pm
by stumped
SLOWLJ wrote:To clean the carb (roughly/quickly)
1. switch spark plug leads 2 and 3
2. then start the car
3. let it cough and spluters a bit then kill the motor
4. put the leads back to norm and it might be ok
Note this is a quick fix which I have seen work heaps of times but it is a quick fix and your carb probly needs a proper clean.
so what does this do exactly and how/why does it work? might help me work out if my carby needs an overhaul...
Posted: Sun May 09, 2004 4:45 pm
by redzook
makes it backfire an blows the carby out
but it gets sucked back up again
just get some carby cleaner an run through it mine seems to idle good an that is all i use
Posted: Sun May 09, 2004 8:09 pm
by Spooky Monster
SLOWLJ wrote:To clean the carb (roughly/quickly)
1. switch spark plug leads 2 and 3
2. then start the car
3. let it cough and spluters a bit then kill the motor
4. put the leads back to norm and it might be ok
Note this is a quick fix which I have seen work heaps of times but it is a quick fix and your carb probly needs a proper clean.
Like red zook said it backfires up through the intake but it is recommended you should only do this with wide open throttle, as it can cause damage to the carby with no where for the flame to get past the throttle plate.
Posted: Sun May 09, 2004 9:04 pm
by built4thrashing
that may well clean it but how do you tune it? What adjustable screws do what ? Which is fuel mixture ,which is idle screw and which is choke adjuster? and how do these effect the running of engine.
What mine is doing is : It runs ok if the revs are up a bit but when it tries to drop to normal idle it stal;ls or runs rough. Any ideas?
Posted: Sun May 09, 2004 9:49 pm
by xtreem
I would start with a good service, Plugs, leads, rotor button, dizzy cap, do the timing and get some carby cleaner (the stuff in the pressure pack that you spray in the carby whilst the engine is running) not that shit you put in the tank. Do the timing and then look at adjustments to the carby if this doesnt fix it.
Or have you already done the rest?????????
Posted: Sun May 09, 2004 10:37 pm
by lay80n
Have ya checked the vacum lines running to and from the manifold and carby, if there is a vacum leak then idle and low rev will suck and probably stall. mine was doing it today, was a loose vacum line on manifold. worth a check anyway
layto....
Posted: Mon May 10, 2004 5:47 pm
by Spooky Monster
grey zook wrote:that may well clean it but how do you tune it? What adjustable screws do what ? Which is fuel mixture ,which is idle screw and which is choke adjuster? and how do these effect the running of engine.
What mine is doing is : It runs ok if the revs are up a bit but when it tries to drop to normal idle it stal;ls or runs rough. Any ideas?
Yeah check for vacuum leaks, easiest wayhold your hand close to the throat of the carby and spray some fuel or any other flammable additive around the manifold and base of carby, the engine will rev up slightly if you spray fuel near a leak so look closely in that vacinity for a broken hose or something.
As for tuning the mixture screw is at the base of the carby on the side closest to the rocker cover. it will most probably have an anti tampering lid on the screw if you know what your doing you can pry this off and have a bit of a fiddle. The idle speed screw is near the throttle shaft (where the throttle cable hooks on) screw it clockwise to increase throttle, scrrew it anticlockwise to decrease. But be careful these carbys are pretty tempremental and can be hard to idle correctly. Hope this helps
Posted: Mon May 10, 2004 5:58 pm
by redzook
my carby dosent have an idle adjustment screw
and i think one time when i took it right apart to give it a clean out i put one of the spring loaded things for the choke on backwards so now when it is cold it idles at bout 300 rpm and when it warms up its at bout 650-700 rpm
but i cant be farked messin with it cos it runs bitchen'
and i dont want to stuff it up
just thought id share
Posted: Mon May 10, 2004 7:08 pm
by muppet_man67
grey zook wrote:that may well clean it but how do you tune it? What adjustable screws do what ? Which is fuel mixture ,which is idle screw and which is choke adjuster? and how do these effect the running of engine.
What mine is doing is : It runs ok if the revs are up a bit but when it tries to drop to normal idle it stal;ls or runs rough. Any ideas?
This was happening to my car when I first bought it, it was really irregular and would stall as soon as I clutched in with the accelerator off. I put the car in for a tuneup and was told the carby needed reconditioning. runs sweet now. cost $750 all up but I got ripped off real bad.
Posted: Mon May 10, 2004 7:31 pm
by built4thrashing
have been told a carby of a 1.6 vit will bolt straight on and are a much better and easier carby to tune and that they give you about 20% more power. I think i will do this and let youz know what its like.
Posted: Mon May 10, 2004 10:42 pm
by christover1
1300 carbys are preset, no tuning is possible, just the idle and
cold idle and choke triggers are adjustable...A common problem with
1.3 carbs is dirt etc in fuel, idle jet is rather small, and blocks
up easily. Another common prob is that the auto choke plays up, they
are controlled by the temp of the rad water running through them,
and this blocks up sometimes..A quick blow through usually unblocks
them. Also if fuel pump is very old, its diaphragm can drop bits off
that get into carby. It is advisable to run a 2nd filter between
pump and carb.
The fuel tanks should be drained and cleaned if they are dirty or
rusty, that can cause blockage. Some have drain plugs, some dont.
A carby rebuild is probably best, a minor carby rebuild kit cost me
about $40, but after that, make sure rest of fuel system is clean
and functioning, or it will just block up again.
Some people rev engine hard, then back off with hand over air
intake, a bit risky to hands, but can fix temporarily, as it sux out
the junk. some people put lager jets in for idle, but I know nothing
of that?
1300 carbs are good, but only when everything is perfect, or they
play up, usually on idle..
Something I was told today, is ultra 95 octane and/or 98 octane
unleaded contains benzol which can block up smaller jets, like
bikes and maybe zooks? Am testing this theory on my bad idle, as it
only started from day I put 98oct in.
Change over reco carb is worth the effort, but at $200plus, make
sure its needed, and rest of system is clean, too. christover
Posted: Mon May 10, 2004 10:44 pm
by christover1
only some types of 1600 carbs are convertable, not sure which ones...my belief is they only appear better, because they are usually much newer and havent had the off road dirt life as often as old sierras have...just a thought, have no evidence to back it up ...christover