Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi all,

I recently blew the turbo on my 1hd-t, the engine had the turbo compressor wheel on toast for brekkie

upshot is the engine needed to be rebuilt with new pistons and rings, bearings, gaskets etc.

On 1st inspection, I was hopefull the head and valves had survived, but it seems a couple of valves have been bent slightly. The bank account is pretty skint at the moment, so I am looking for tight arse options to get the 80 back in action, but want it to be reliable too.

There was small beads of aluminium from the turbo squashed in the valve seats, I am confident I have removed all this without any further damage.

I have cleaned up the head and valves and seats etc then filled the ports with water to see if the valves are sealing.
Intake side, 4 of 6 seal beautifully, the other 2 leak the full volume of water in the port past the seat in about 20-30min,
exhaust side is similar, 5 of 6 seal OK, 1 leaks in about 15-20min

Is there a better way to check valve condition/sealing etc. I have fairly basic tools.

Is it fair to say that the valves that are leaking are bent?

Is it viable to replace these valves only?
and what would need to be done so they are reliable and have a good seal?

Ideally I would reco the head, but its not looking like an option at the moment due to $$$

any suggestions or comments welcome guys.

cheers

I would get the entire head done and get all new balanced matched pistons (not just stock), redo the entire lot.

Having said that, you can just replace those leaking valves and call it done. But it won't in theory last very long because at some stage, the original valves reach their intended lifespan, and need to be replaced.

So in theory it is possible to replace just those valves, but in all practicality and for engine longevity it's really worth spending the money to rebuild the motor.

Try ringing around some local engine rebuilders, or even Repco etc... They are likely to be cheaper than buying genuine.

Mate if you've gone to the expense of an engine rebuild, why put a half arsed head on it? Just do it properly and you won't have any regrets!

Ideally I would get it fully recoed.

Dont have the coin for it at the moment, I just need to look at options to get it back on the road quickly with smallest bill possible. hence the title of the thread

If I had the coin, it would be getting ported, oversize valves, uprated springs etc.

The only way to tell properly will be to get the head looked at, and have the seats of the valves that leak machined [cheapest option] or if they are bent, fit some second hand replacements.

If this is the only real damage, then a VRS gasket set and some new head bolts, and you will be ready to go.

You will spend $400-$500 if most are ok and you remove and replace yourself.

Make sure the rest got out the exhaust, and nothing is stuck down beside the pistons and the bore too.

the guys saying he's on a budget, but you guys are understanding a different language altogether??

bet get yourself some valve grinding paste, coarse and fine, then get the little tool to hold the valve with a suction cup and hand lap all the valves.

As for the 2 bent ones, get 2 second hand ones and lap them in properly and you are done .

the only thing i woudl add is about 50$ for a crack test before you start anything.

JEs

jessie928 wrote:the guys saying he's on a budget, but you guys are understanding a different language altogether?? JEs

You are assuming he can tell bent vs not seating.

I would send it to Jessie for that price!

bj on roids wrote:I would send it to Jessie for that price!

x 2

bj on roids wrote:I would send it to Jessie for that price!

what you guys pay more than 50 for crack testing?
i suppose you pay more than 60 for a shave aswell?


Jes

jessie928 wrote:

bj on roids wrote:I would send it to Jessie for that price!

what you guys pay more than 50 for crack testing?
i suppose you pay more than 60 for a shave aswell?


Jes

jesse's $100 head jobs!!

jessie928 wrote:the guys saying he's on a budget, but you guys are understanding a different language altogether??

bet get yourself some valve grinding paste, coarse and fine, then get the little tool to hold the valve with a suction cup and hand lap all the valves.

As for the 2 bent ones, get 2 second hand ones and lap them in properly and you are done .

the only thing i woudl add is about 50$ for a crack test before you start anything.

JEs

X2

bj on roids wrote:

jessie928 wrote:

bj on roids wrote:I would send it to Jessie for that price!

what you guys pay more than 50 for crack testing?
i suppose you pay more than 60 for a shave aswell?


Jes

jesse's $100 head jobs!!

110

thanks jessie and darren,

Im definitely looking for the tight arse option at the moment.

Im fairly confident its safe to assume the valves are bent, some decent chunks of compressor went through it, and all the seats look OK, no unussual wear.

Engine has been fully stripped and cleaned and reassembled, so no more shrapnel in there.

I was thinking the same as you Jessie, could be the go

will I be able to get paste and tool from repco or similar?


Oh, and for $50 I'd want to go further than just test her crack

Assassin_Offroad wrote:

jessie928 wrote:the guys saying he's on a budget, but you guys are understanding a different language altogether?? JEs

You are assuming he can tell bent vs not seating.

Then get the tool and paste, and lap them. You will soon figure out if theyre bent or not. The most likely are. As said get some second handies and lap them all in. I agree with the pressure test first.
just bear in mind that it is a short fix and you will need to do it again properly at some stage down the track when you have the coin.

One thing not mentioned, you don't check for leaks with water, it has a skin. Use petrol, kero, diesel even to fill the ports.



I wouldn't go the really cheap option, you have a little too much invested to probably have to pull it apart again.


Andy