Outer Limits 4x4 Board

OK i have a new toy and am thinking i might just wheel it exactly the way it is. Cause its so damn cool
It is the one that was for sale in the vehicles for sale section. It is original motor and drive line and does run like a dream.
I can figure out that its a 3 speed manuel with a dog leg reverse and the low high shifter but what is the other shifter on the spring that pops up when you go to low range if its pushed down.
Also i am thinking down the track of 3.5/3.9 v8 c4 auto and lt230 with say a set of 60 series diffs or a front danna 44. What do you all think of that? or should i just keep it like it is.
I was thinking if leaving it the way it is i might try changing the front diff to a 24spline set up with the 4.7 crown and pinion. I gather this is possible to do????
Asking as a series is very new to me.
And her Name is "WINNIE" cause it looks like poo
Cheers Nottie

Have you been peeking in Sam O or my garages!

It should also be a 4 speed, not a 3 speed.

AFAIK (because I seem to always turf if for a different gearbox) that lever puts it into 4WD when in high range. When you select low range it engages 4WD anyway.

This is what all the bits are.



My one is a 1960 SeriesII tray which has a 3.9/ZF/LT230/LC60 axles. As usual its not complete but the way to go. If you do also of this, it will be really easy to bring across the LC60 brake system and PAS.

I'm not sure where/what Sam is up to, but he was looking to do a V6 with LC60 axles into a Series1 SWB.

Im slowly of progressing..or is accumulating.

The other week I picked up a Series 3 SWB ute which has a Holden V6, cuza 75 series 5 speed and transfer on a shortened range rover chassis with stock rangie diffs and a 60 series power steer box. I bit rough in most places but lots of potential.

And the Series 1 will be in Tuff Truck next year...Chev V8, T700, Atlas transfer , rear steer, Dana 60s, portals, blah blah blah....well thats this weeks plan.

But anyway Nottie - wheel it as is and modify it one piece at a time..

Sam

Holy crap, the S1 plans have come a long way. I thought this was going to be low, short, light and for the thrashing of.

Was the S3 the one that was on ebay a while ago?

Slunnie wrote:Was the S3 the one that was on ebay a while ago?

Yep.

Nottie - sounds great - any pics???

The biggest limiting factor is the stiff springs (and/or lack of lockers).







Sam - any pics of yours as well???

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic185660.php
Pics in this thread Ben.

Sam O that sounds very much like a landy on the american buggy drive train BUT with PORTALS Very cool!
Pics or Ban!!! HOld on can you Ban yourself???

Will be one dam cool Landy when done though Sam...

Cheers For that also Slunnie.

nottie wrote:http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic185660.php
Pics in this thread Ben.

Sam O that sounds very much like a landy on the american buggy drive train BUT with PORTALS Very cool!
Pics or Ban!!! HOld on can you Ban yourself???

Will be one dam cool Landy when done though Sam...

Cheers For that also Slunnie.

Great buy!

Shave the sals, put some decent rubber on and remove a few spring leaves and you will be surprised how capable it is.

No point going a D44 rear. You can upgrade the sals to be as strong as a 35spl D60. Easy to widen too - LR widened the long side only by 6" to go from series to coiller, and moved the diff over 3"

You can get a 4.88 D60 R&P if you want to match up the sals with a toy/nissan front.

Ben the D44 is for the front. Nottie intends on keeping the sals in the arse end.

I think he secretely wants to buy a jeep! He drinks a lot of coffee!

GRIMACE wrote:Ben the D44 is for the front. Nottie intends on keeping the sals in the arse end.

I think he secretely wants to buy a jeep! He drinks a lot of coffee!

Ahh thanks, read it too quickly and saw 60s front d44 rear...

Yeah i was thinking of putting something like that under it but am also thinking of just putting the body on a classic chassis. Bit like the original MOG. After i wheel it like it is for a while. For some silly reason i am really looking forward to wheel it in its most stock condition.
Ben we also picked it up for $300 not $500. I am really happy with it. It has some rust holes in 1 floor pan and in the passenger rail behind the front spring hanger. Really cant expect to much for that money and the age.

Is there any way you can play around with the shifters as so it will wheel in low range rear drive???
Also Ben if you want it you can down the track have the motor box and trans after i put in the 3.5 c4 and lt.
I think Micka was saying your Dad lives south brizzy so i could drop it there if you want it. It will be a way down the track but i just wont want to dumpit. It has a set of extractors on it And the stromy is of a FJ holden from what i can work out.
1 turn of the key and the bloody thing fires straight up and idles sweet. Amazing old thing really.

I stuck hilux diffs in mine (well cruiser housing with hilux head in the rear end). In hindsight it was a bad decision. The lux diffs are too narrow and weak. They wont be helped by the 1uz either . They have had RR suspension mounted on em

Ive only got a swb body, not a ute (which i would prefer but with a tubed out rear end). Next time i would go for either 60 series or some GU or 80 series running gear. They are wide enough and generally strong enough. My 1uz is a nice fit but next time id go with an injected chev or rover (though they may be more expensive).

But the main thing i would probably do is go to a coiler chassis. mainly because i keep finding bits of rust to fix in mine. Not so much a problem if you have a chassis in really good nick though, its just less likely to rust out anytime soon.

nottie wrote:
Is there any way you can play around with the shifters as so it will wheel in low range rear drive???
Also Ben if you want it you can down the track have the motor box and trans after i put in the 3.5 c4 and lt.
I think Micka was saying your Dad lives south brizzy so i could drop it there if you want it.

Yes, there are a couple of people who have done a single-stick conversion on the transfer levers which gives you 2H 4H 2L 4L. Haven't done it myself. Ralph and Frank (ralph's father) should still remember how to do it.

But you should be able to work it out. L/H is just a sliding selector. 4/2 is a spring loaded selector which engages a dog when you remove a pin by pressing the yellow know down.

I have never bothered doing it to mine - but I suppose it could be useful for rear digs

I am not interested in the motor, but dad might be, as his 2.25P is getting tired. Thanks! Let me know!

Strange Rover wrote:Im slowly of progressing..or is accumulating.

The other week I picked up a Series 3 SWB ute which has a Holden V6, cuza 75 series 5 speed and transfer on a shortened range rover chassis with stock rangie diffs and a 60 series power steer box. I bit rough in most places but lots of potential.

And the Series 1 will be in Tuff Truck next year...Chev V8, T700, Atlas transfer , rear steer, Dana 60s, portals, blah blah blah....well thats this weeks plan.


Sam

This needs its own build thread.

And Sam, am I ok to pick your brains a little for advice on shoving some mogs under my Rangie?

No no general build thread! Just a thread in the Rover section for all us Rover freaks to drool at.
Ben once im done with it (wont be to long knowing how bored i get ) then its all his.

Micka wrote:

Strange Rover wrote:Im slowly of progressing..or is accumulating.

The other week I picked up a Series 3 SWB ute which has a Holden V6, cuza 75 series 5 speed and transfer on a shortened range rover chassis with stock rangie diffs and a 60 series power steer box. I bit rough in most places but lots of potential.

And the Series 1 will be in Tuff Truck next year...Chev V8, T700, Atlas transfer , rear steer, Dana 60s, portals, blah blah blah....well thats this weeks plan.


Sam

This needs its own build thread.

And Sam, am I ok to pick your brains a little for advice on shoving some mogs under my Rangie?

Pick MY brains???

Bloody hell - I have been trying to ring you every day for the last week to find out where you got your mogs or if you new of where I can get some portals...guess I didnt try to ring you today though.

But anyway pick away for sure...probaby the best thing to do is to get some custom axles for them to change the offset to suit the rangie and then throw them in with the rangie drivetrain. I could probably get the axles together for you. Ill try to call you again tomorrow.

And Nottie - you should have bought the one I got cause its almost there...which is basically the reason why I bought it...series 3 swb on a rangie chassis. First thing for sure to do is get some rego and get it wheeing, get some bar work and a roll cage and then weld the diffs and then fix and upgrade things as they fall off...just like the good old days.

Sam

Turoa wrote:I stuck hilux diffs in mine (well cruiser housing with hilux head in the rear end). In hindsight it was a bad decision. The lux diffs are too narrow and weak. They wont be helped by the 1uz either . They have had RR suspension mounted on em

Ive only got a swb body, not a ute (which i would prefer but with a tubed out rear end). Next time i would go for either 60 series or some GU or 80 series running gear. They are wide enough and generally strong enough. My 1uz is a nice fit but next time id go with an injected chev or rover (though they may be more expensive).

But the main thing i would probably do is go to a coiler chassis. mainly because i keep finding bits of rust to fix in mine. Not so much a problem if you have a chassis in really good nick though, its just less likely to rust out anytime soon.

Gday Turoa, you got pics of it all?

Slunnie wrote:

Turoa wrote:I stuck hilux diffs in mine (well cruiser housing with hilux head in the rear end). In hindsight it was a bad decision. The lux diffs are too narrow and weak. They wont be helped by the 1uz either . They have had RR suspension mounted on em

Ive only got a swb body, not a ute (which i would prefer but with a tubed out rear end). Next time i would go for either 60 series or some GU or 80 series running gear. They are wide enough and generally strong enough. My 1uz is a nice fit but next time id go with an injected chev or rover (though they may be more expensive).

But the main thing i would probably do is go to a coiler chassis. mainly because i keep finding bits of rust to fix in mine. Not so much a problem if you have a chassis in really good nick though, its just less likely to rust out anytime soon.

Gday Turoa, you got pics of it all?

no recent pics of the overall thing. after staring at it in the weeds for a few months I decided i didnt like the height of it and lowered it 3 inches and stuck some heep coils in the front. Its still not as low as id like but it is better.

This is probably the best pic ive got of the work ive done recently. Hopefully in the next couple of weeks ill be stripping it, painting and rebuilding so I can drive it

Thanks mate. The motor looks a good fit. This isn't the one that had coilovers or the Holden (turbo???) is it?

Slunnie wrote:Thanks mate. The motor looks a good fit. This isn't the one that had coilovers or the Holden (turbo???) is it?

the very same

decided awhile back that the 202 wouldnt cut it and so stuck that thing in and then stupidly got caught up in other projects. Hope to have in running in the next coupla months though. Akso changed to coils in the front end because the coil overs were way too stiff

Strange Rover wrote:
Pick MY brains???

Bloody hell - I have been trying to ring you every day for the last week to find out where you got your mogs or if you new of where I can get some portals...guess I didnt try to ring you today though.

But anyway pick away for sure...probaby the best thing to do is to get some custom axles for them to change the offset to suit the rangie and then throw them in with the rangie drivetrain. I could probably get the axles together for you. Ill try to call you again tomorrow.

And Nottie - you should have bought the one I got cause its almost there...which is basically the reason why I bought it...series 3 swb on a rangie chassis. First thing for sure to do is get some rego and get it wheeing, get some bar work and a roll cage and then weld the diffs and then fix and upgrade things as they fall off...just like the good old days.

Sam

Micks been away at Hamilton island.

Fix stuff and upgrade as it falls off
That was sort of the plan for a bit till i get ahold of some other bits for it as they come up cheap.

Strange Rover wrote:

Micka wrote:

Strange Rover wrote:Im slowly of progressing..or is accumulating.

The other week I picked up a Series 3 SWB ute which has a Holden V6, cuza 75 series 5 speed and transfer on a shortened range rover chassis with stock rangie diffs and a 60 series power steer box. I bit rough in most places but lots of potential.

And the Series 1 will be in Tuff Truck next year...Chev V8, T700, Atlas transfer , rear steer, Dana 60s, portals, blah blah blah....well thats this weeks plan.


Sam

This needs its own build thread.

And Sam, am I ok to pick your brains a little for advice on shoving some mogs under my Rangie?

Pick MY brains???

Bloody hell - I have been trying to ring you every day for the last week to find out where you got your mogs or if you new of where I can get some portals...guess I didnt try to ring you today though.

But anyway pick away for sure...probaby the best thing to do is to get some custom axles for them to change the offset to suit the rangie and then throw them in with the rangie drivetrain. I could probably get the axles together for you. Ill try to call you again tomorrow.

And Nottie - you should have bought the one I got cause its almost there...which is basically the reason why I bought it...series 3 swb on a rangie chassis. First thing for sure to do is get some rego and get it wheeing, get some bar work and a roll cage and then weld the diffs and then fix and upgrade things as they fall off...just like the good old days.

Sam

Sorry Sam...I've been away on holidays for the last week and I turned my phone off. Call anytime tomorrow.

I haven't got my mogs as yet. I have sold my Toy converted diffs already to pay for the mogs but I have not called the guy to get a price.

My first thoughts were to change the diff offset and of course a pinion conversion. I know that you did yours using the torque tube, but I'm not 100% sure that I'll be able to source one.

I came across this site on Pirate that I'm sure you'd know. www.killeraxles.com they do all sorts of cool custom portal stuff. Like this one that may be of interest to you...http://www.killeraxles.com/html/portalachsen.html

Micka.

Finally had a look at that site Mick. Bloody hell there is some diff porn on there AWSOME!

nottie wrote:Finally had a look at that site Mick. Bloody hell there is some diff porn on there AWSOME!

Oh yeah, they have some way cool stuff.

So tempted to order a 9"/Mog hybrid combo with rear steer.

ISUZUROVER wrote:Nottie - sounds great - any pics???

The biggest limiting factor is the stiff springs (and/or lack of lockers).

Jesus, Ben

And you called me ugly? Your head is not even fit for print

Love the ute, BTW. Looks awesome.

Micka wrote:

ISUZUROVER wrote:Nottie - sounds great - any pics???

The biggest limiting factor is the stiff springs (and/or lack of lockers).

Jesus, Ben

And you called me ugly? Your head is not even fit for print

Love the ute, BTW. Looks awesome.

Never said I was pretty Its really just to protect my identity "this man is a doctor, we can't show you his face on the outerweb"

Turoa wrote:

Slunnie wrote:

Turoa wrote:I stuck hilux diffs in mine (well cruiser housing with hilux head in the rear end). In hindsight it was a bad decision. The lux diffs are too narrow and weak. They wont be helped by the 1uz either . They have had RR suspension mounted on em

Ive only got a swb body, not a ute (which i would prefer but with a tubed out rear end). Next time i would go for either 60 series or some GU or 80 series running gear. They are wide enough and generally strong enough. My 1uz is a nice fit but next time id go with an injected chev or rover (though they may be more expensive).

But the main thing i would probably do is go to a coiler chassis. mainly because i keep finding bits of rust to fix in mine. Not so much a problem if you have a chassis in really good nick though, its just less likely to rust out anytime soon.

Gday Turoa, you got pics of it all?

no recent pics of the overall thing. after staring at it in the weeds for a few months I decided i didnt like the height of it and lowered it 3 inches and stuck some heep coils in the front. Its still not as low as id like but it is better.

This is probably the best pic ive got of the work ive done recently. Hopefully in the next couple of weeks ill be stripping it, painting and rebuilding so I can drive it

Looking at that pic, if as I suspect, you are using a spherical plain bearing at the diff end of the A-frame. Then you will need to change is so that the bolt is vertical, instead of horizontal - it won't like the side load that way.

Its designed to be used like that (or so im told). A local guy builds them, mainly for stock cars but used on 4wd's a lot. They are fully rebuildable aswell.

I thought the same thing!


Piiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiics!!!!!!

Slunnie wrote:Holy crap, the S1 plans have come a long way. I thought this was going to be low, short, light and for the thrashing of.

Funniest thing happened the other night when i was taking out the old busted seats to throw in some commonwhore seat. Behind them i found the old engine hand crank bar.I thought to myself for sure this thing wouldnt work. But i decided to give it a try.
About half a turn on the thing and my little winnie fired into life.
I almost fell over with laughter. The thing hadnt been started for almost 24 hours so was cold. It started and idled sweet as a breath of fresh air.
No more worrying bout dead batteries for me