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fj40 brake setup
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
fj40 brake setup
Doing a disc front conversion on my swb 40. got a complete disc front diff which i have put under. only prblem is the brake master is not the same for drum f & r as the disc front drum rear. i have purchased a master from the wreckers that they said was right which is type 44610-6017 no 4f00217. but the brakes are still pretty horrible. what have i done wrong?
SWB 40 SERIES FOR SALE
FJ75 NEW TRUCK
STOCK WITH 31's
FJ75 NEW TRUCK
STOCK WITH 31's
Resident Terrorist
Why? Disc front is one of the best things you can do to a 40, that and power steer.Hardzy wrote:i've decided that im just going to find a new brake master to suit drum front and rear and forget about doing the front disc brake conversion. what sort of price should i sell a disc brake front diff for?
Generally speaking, if you have no pedal then you have one of 3 problems.
1: Insufucient fluid displacement. That is fluid is not getting to the rear wheel cylinders or front calipers either due to a significant leak, large amount of air in the system or a faulty master cylinder which is by-passing fluid.
2: Rear brakes are way out of adjustment and are pusing the rear wheel cylinders out to their extermety and still not engaging the drum and/or faulty/seized calipers.
3: A combination of 1 and 2.
At the end of the day if you do decide to run front discs you will need to fit a booster and plumb vacuum to it. From what I understand you will not be able to bolt a 40 booster straight onto the early firewalls. A spacer bracket will need to be made up to clear whatever it is on the firewall that the booster will foul on (stiffening rib??).
Resident Terrorist
Yep. Send a pm to "Ol'40" http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/phpBB2/pr ... ile&u=9191
He has fitted disc brakes to an early non booster 40 and made up a bracket and custom pushrod to mount the booster. He might be able to help you out with some tips/pics.
He has fitted disc brakes to an early non booster 40 and made up a bracket and custom pushrod to mount the booster. He might be able to help you out with some tips/pics.
Resident Terrorist
Resident Terrorist
You need a preportioning valve between the Drum and Disc brakes other wise the rear will lock up first and little braking effect on the front.
You can either add an adjustable one or pick up one off a late 40 that had factory discs. May find one on a 60 series too will do.
Also make sure you dont have an air lock in the matser cylinder it's self.
You can either add an adjustable one or pick up one off a late 40 that had factory discs. May find one on a 60 series too will do.
Also make sure you dont have an air lock in the matser cylinder it's self.
http://www.fj40-2f-eti-locked-n-loaded.com
Advanced (HB) Intercoolers
http://advancedhbintercoolers.com
Advanced (HB) Intercoolers
http://advancedhbintercoolers.com
Thanks for the help Matt... from what I read on IH8Mud I need to get one of these proportioning valves.
I'm sooo miffed at my BJ40 - mainly what year it is. From all the docs it says it's a 78, but the discs appear factory (with 14mm studs), that was only offered on the 1980 and up model. The other thing that confuses me is the engine has a stamp on it saying "Made to comply with 1979 ADR".
I'm sooo miffed at my BJ40 - mainly what year it is. From all the docs it says it's a 78, but the discs appear factory (with 14mm studs), that was only offered on the 1980 and up model. The other thing that confuses me is the engine has a stamp on it saying "Made to comply with 1979 ADR".
matt.mcinnes wrote:You need a preportioning valve between the Drum and Disc brakes other wise the rear will lock up first and little braking effect on the front.
You can either add an adjustable one or pick up one off a late 40 that had factory discs. May find one on a 60 series too will do.
Also make sure you dont have an air lock in the matser cylinder it's self.
Can you elaborate on this a little more mate?
Basically its a valve that balances the braking, as the front require more to clamp on the disc, the toyota one is non adjustable and part of the mastercylinder I think. Aftermarket you can actually adjust to suit. Ideally correctly adjusted all 4 wheels should lock up at the same time in a perfect world.De-lux wrote:matt.mcinnes wrote:You need a preportioning valve between the Drum and Disc brakes other wise the rear will lock up first and little braking effect on the front.
You can either add an adjustable one or pick up one off a late 40 that had factory discs. May find one on a 60 series too will do.
Also make sure you dont have an air lock in the matser cylinder it's self.
Can you elaborate on this a little more mate?
Mud will have plenty of info if you can't find it here.
http://www.fj40-2f-eti-locked-n-loaded.com
Advanced (HB) Intercoolers
http://advancedhbintercoolers.com
Advanced (HB) Intercoolers
http://advancedhbintercoolers.com
60 series cruisers have a separate proportioning valve under the master cylinder, I just used all 60 series stuff when I changed my 82 troopy to disc front end. I am pretty sure that the disc front end cruisers have smaller rear wheel cylinders that 4 wheel drums. Some people change them, some dont.
I recall years ago a mate put a chev diff under his Monaro, kept locking up the back brakes. changed the slave cylinders back to standard size and it was fine.
As said previously, discs on the front of a 40 series is a MAJOR improvement over drums
I recall years ago a mate put a chev diff under his Monaro, kept locking up the back brakes. changed the slave cylinders back to standard size and it was fine.
As said previously, discs on the front of a 40 series is a MAJOR improvement over drums
My 60 series rebuild....
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic103004.php&highlight=
http://www.flyology.com
2006 CRV Sport (wifes car)
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic103004.php&highlight=
http://www.flyology.com
2006 CRV Sport (wifes car)
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