Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Guys did big search and read a heap.

Truck a 2000 dual cab patrol 4,2 diesel we just put denco kit on. Played with fuel a little but running fairly conservatively till it gets mod plated etc.
Sheriden at Kawana muffler men did a sweet job on the 3 inch zaust at a fair price and sounds sweet.

Pyro on street laboured up i could not get past 350..... cousin said up the beach giving it a work out (tyres were dropped to 20Lb for the record)

My question is do we need to panic when it starts hitting 550 (thus still seen as maximum) said if he laboured it or worked it hard it did not take to much to get 500 way...

at what point could you expect damage.....700 800...

then next question is how the fark do you lads that have them wound to the hills belllooowing black soot not have egt's of the scale.... intercoolers make that much difference or you just dont look at egt's or avoid long stints of soft sand say?

Am interested and intrigued.

any help appreciated.

Mark Bingham

Mate there's is heaps of info on here about just what you wanna know. (I know i've read it) so keep lookin its all there.

the first thing most will say is "get a tune" but you can get it pretty close yourself with a boost, pyro guage and a few clues.

But just a quick and basic remedy for high egts is either lower your fuel or raise your boost to suit your driving.
(or with time and dollars install good charge air cooler, 3" exh, advance timing, ceramic coatings, porting, etc etc).

what boost have ya got? - adjust fuel very slightly as a little is a lot! so I usually back mine off then go up in about 1mm increments till I have no more than 550 (as you said) when towing up hills.
As for engine damage 550 a benchmark but i know of guys who regularly touch on 650 - 700 and their engines are still in one piece, but it will lower the engines life expectancy obviously.

I also tow bike trailers in sand and as you are doing alot of slow speed loading a 'water to air' cooler is more the go (in my opinion) as they are not as dependent on air flow. so check the 'frozen boost web' for starters.

good luck with ya project fellas

Where is your pyro probe? No point giving you a 720 degree maximum temp if you're measuring 6" post turbo.....

mate the probe is where its designed to go on the kit.. dont know to be honest a mate did tyhe install but be assured its in the correct place...

bo0st is standard kit boost which is 9 or so... Mate talks of moving boost hose or something to other inlet closer the inlet allowing to boost to 12 and we happy with that. just wondering when to start shitting bricks i suppose also.../ easing of the go pedal... so 550 is still the consenus.

Bingham wrote:mate the probe is where its designed to go on the kit.. dont know to be honest a mate did tyhe install but be assured its in the correct place...

bo0st is standard kit boost which is 9 or so... Mate talks of moving boost hose or something to other inlet closer the inlet allowing to boost to 12 and we happy with that. just wondering when to start shitting bricks i suppose also.../ easing of the go pedal... so 550 is still the consenus.

Pre turbo max is 720 degrees, post turbo could be as low as 600 degrees (there can be 100-150 degrees temperature variation pre/post turbo).

Generally speaking, moving the boost signal pickup point won't change the boost pressure unless you have an intercooler fitted, in which case it would be just compensating for the pressure drop over the intercooler. Factory pickup points are "usually" off the compressor wheel housing, giving an instant boost pressure reference, whereas moving the pickup point to the intake manifold (close to the head) would give a more true indication of what boost the engine is receiving.

As it is not a factory turbo'ed motor, try to stick to the 550. Later models/turbos have oil squirters from crank up to the piston.

Have you got MY snorkel hooked up yet? If not, that will help. Not having it on my truck sees fuel economy go up and EGT rise for the same input.

Providing the pyro is before the bend in the dump pipe you should be right to compare your temps with most others on here.

Some prefer road tunes, but i got a good indication of my EGT on a dyno. 4th gear at 160kph is not something I do on the road. But by playing around in every gear, and speed, got a "benchmark" for flat driving.

He will want more boost I run 14psi, but not sure if non turboed will be able to supply enough fuel???

Cant wait to check this out mate.

PAULY

coxy321 wrote:

Bingham wrote:mate the probe is where its designed to go on the kit.. dont know to be honest a mate did tyhe install but be assured its in the correct place...

bo0st is standard kit boost which is 9 or so... Mate talks of moving boost hose or something to other inlet closer the inlet allowing to boost to 12 and we happy with that. just wondering when to start shitting bricks i suppose also.../ easing of the go pedal... so 550 is still the consenus.

Pre turbo max is 720 degrees, post turbo could be as low as 600 degrees (there can be 100-150 degrees temperature variation pre/post turbo).

Generally speaking, moving the boost signal pickup point won't change the boost pressure unless you have an intercooler fitted, in which case it would be just compensating for the pressure drop over the intercooler. Factory pickup points are "usually" off the compressor wheel housing, giving an instant boost pressure reference, whereas moving the pickup point to the intake manifold (close to the head) would give a more true indication of what boost the engine is receiving.

I have tested this quite a lot and under full power the difference in post and pre turbo temps can vary a lot depending on exhaust housing size and restiction, it is not hard to exceed 200 degrees from pre to post turbo.

Joel

ok gents all points taken on board.

it getting snorkel asap after alternator which just shat. so get some clean cool air in then will do some more precision tuning.

Thanks