Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I have Kawa ZX 6, pulled the carbys down to clean, in the manual it states to "screw idle mixture screws in until seats, then unscrew counting the turns so as to replace in the same position". Who reads the manual first?
Any thoughts on the amount of turns out. At the moment the point of the screw can just be felt through the throat of the carbys, as it is it splutters of idle, but once off idle goes ok, should I move the screws in or out.

Ashy

21/2 turns out seems to be pretty standard. Look on a 'your bike specific forum' or download the factory manual - every manual is online if you look hard enough!

cheers bru

bru21 wrote:21/2 turns out seems to be pretty standard. Look on a 'your bike specific forum' or download the factory manual - every manual is online if you look hard enough!

cheers bru

Bru is someone I normally agree with particularly with tech stuff but my experience over the years with motorcycles is that the air screw mixture is "usually" out 1.5 turns as a general start point and then tuned from there.

Not wishing to doubt Bru's info as he may have specific knowledge of the ZX6 (and importantly I don't) but my experience has shown that 1.5 turns is the GENERAL start point for most motorcycles.

Any reason you went 2.5 Bru?

OK, been on the Kawasaki forum, the thoughts are 2 1/3 to 2 1/2 turns out, then out until the idle peaks then in a bit. How do you do this with 4 carbys?
Do you just go up and down the line a heap of times, what about when you put the air box back on will that stuff things up?
I don’t mean to be pedantic but it’s a pain, remove fuel tank, battery, air box just to see the carbys, let alone start to do adjustments, you need hands and fingers like a leprechaun.
Ashy

Ashy wrote:OK, been on the Kawasaki forum, the thoughts are 2 1/3 to 2 1/2 turns out, then out until the idle peaks then in a bit. How do you do this with 4 carbys?
Do you just go up and down the line a heap of times, what about when you put the air box back on will that stuff things up?
I don’t mean to be pedantic but it’s a pain, remove fuel tank, battery, air box just to see the carbys, let alone start to do adjustments, you need hands and fingers like a leprechaun.
Ashy

Sounds like Bru was right (I new I shouldn't have gone against his advice .. he's usually pretty good with tech stuff). You should be doing the tuning with the airbox etc all hooked up. Is that possible? Or do you need a special tool?

Simo63,
Imposable to do with the air box in place, just not enough room. Can’t get you hand, fingers or anything else in there because of the bracing on the frame, and the bottom of carbs is only about an inch above the case. With the air box removed would be just doable with a bent screw driver.
Ashy.

I usally start of with two and a half turns to get the bike running. Turn clock wise until it dies. Turn anti clockwise until it dies set inbetween the two.