Outer Limits 4x4 Board

looking into getting a locker in the rear of my single cab hilux,i was thinking of buying a lockright or auto locker type as a heap of people say there good for the price.

now if a welded rear costs me nothing to do and a lockight costs me $500 odd dollars why do people buy lockright lockers..whats the advantage.

my car is not daily driven but more like weekly driven(once or twice a week) and i dont know if i should spend the dosh on gettin an auto locker...

now before everyone yells and screams at me to buy an air locker i have a few reasons:
-CANT AFFORD IT
-car is not worth it,unless i get one as cheap as a lockright
-if i get an air locker i want it in the front
-CANT AFFORD IT

so yea plese no-one post about buyin a air locker cause it wont happen unless you want to buy me one..

anyway so what is better welded or lockright..

cheers..smiley..

any locked diff is illegal, but depending what the car looks like, you probably have other things which are illegal too.

Your handling will go to crap, sure going through mud, some hill climbs it will go gang busters, but if you need to turn in a hurry or tight turn, you can't.

Tyre wear is also a dis advantage.

on another note. why not sift through wreckors and ebay for an lsd diff or similar?

Had a welded diff in my hilux never hit the road but had to move it in and out of my w'shop daily what a pain in the ass, tyres all chewed up ended breaking the pinion teeth . Pulled it out to put in a lockrite twisted LH axle as well . have the lock rite in it now so much better and no worse off road . Locktup4x4.com.au have proper lockrite ones 4 cheap than the others lokka brand

Don't go a welded one. Go a lockright or hunt around for a second hand airlocker, I picked up mine for $450 (and got another in pieces for bits or to repair). There was one on ebay recently that was located up here that went for $400, so would can get one cheap enough if you look

yea well i just didnt know what a lockright does,people said it locks up like a welded one and still spins the inside wheels at your normal intersection and only unlocks when your off the throttle..

and other have said its fine and they dont even notice it..wtf?

matt_85lux,do you need the proper arb compressor to run the locker...

i have a tjm ox compressor 75litres per minute,can i run the locker on that compressor,i know i need the air tak and that stuff..

can you put an air locker in yourself?
no-one i know has one and dont know if you can put em in yourself or get arb to put em in..

cheers..smiley..

I fitted mine my self and had a mechanic mate set up the backlash and such. As far as I know you don't have to use the ARB compressor, but it is just easier as it has everything you need ( wiring harness, pressure switch and on/off switch)

if its a bush Scanas weld it up

83-mud-lux wrote:yea well i just didnt know what a lockright does,people said it locks up like a welded one and still spins the inside wheels at your normal intersection and only unlocks when your off the throttle..

and other have said its fine and they dont even notice it..wtf?

matt_85lux,do you need the proper arb compressor to run the locker...

i have a tjm ox compressor 75litres per minute,can i run the locker on that compressor,i know i need the air tak and that stuff..

can you put an air locker in yourself?
no-one i know has one and dont know if you can put em in yourself or get arb to put em in..

cheers..smiley..

auto lockers will stay locked so long as torque is being applied to it.
there is no other way to explain it.

Weld. Dont waste money on the lockwrong. If i was to pay for a locker. It'd be air only.

have u thought about front instead of rear? i wouldn't weld up front diff but i fitted a lokka into the front of my bundy as its got a rear lsd, and i'm stoked how good it is. i got told a heap of crap about no steering , noisey, won't disengage, etc. so far all crap no probs, highly recomend and thinkin about replacin the rear, but got to finish reno to house b4 spendin any more on 'that bloody car'

DON'T weld up your rear
DON'T put an auto locker in the front
Fit a lokka in the rear they work well for a budget diff lock

DR Frankenstine wrote:DON'T weld up your rear
DON'T put an auto locker in the front
Fit a lokka in the rear they work well for a budget diff lock

Can't agree more, seen mates get in a heap of trouble due to the wrong decision in regards to lokka choice, one nearly rolled his cruiser down Cleb rally due to a lokka in the front (front slid sideways due to wheelspin because the lokka didn't disengage) and the welded option is not much better. I have had welded diffs in road cars and I wouldn't do it ever again, decreased tyre life, extra wear on bushes, extra load on axles which can then snap and the possiblity of teeth being removed from crown/pinion

DR Frankenstine wrote:DON'T weld up your rear
DON'T put an auto locker in the front
Fit a lokka in the rear they work well for a budget diff lock

X22

If budget is very tight.

Bazzle

money_killer wrote:if its a bush . weld it up

agree, if its just a hack and a toy weld it!

if it's daily driven hold out till an air locker comes up second hand and cheap for the rear.

I run a auto locker in the front of my rig and have NO problems at all with handleing! You just slightly alter your driving style and then your set with heaps more traction than before. If you were to be a lead foot and try to power into corners you will have the front slide but if you drive sensibly and be aware when you feel the front skip a bit when turning ride your brakes a little and it will unlock! I also read heaps of threads about the auto lockers been crap but if you adapt to you vehicle with the locker you will find that the auto locker been crap theorys are a load of b.s!

I certainly wouldnt weld a diff though, that will cause plenty of issues with steering, reliability so on and so forth!

i had a detroit in the front, thought it was the beez neez, but after busting countless cv's and and touque steer, then having the centre ,not the crown or pinion break i went air locker.

no having to adjust driving style just push the button

and the rear is welded.........

I had a welded fron't and rear in my 90 model lux, sure it chews tires and puts pressure on axles and wheel bearings, but you no its locked not like some other types, drove mine every day the only problem i found is when your doing a cross slope in mud, just wanted to slide down, which is fixed easily with more throttle, dont listen to these other soft cocks, drop in some 8mm plate and weld the farker up, don't be scared! it will be the cheapest and best mod you can do.

If you get a LOKKA you will find it harsh in the way it engages and disengages If you get a Lockright it'll be smoother, if you get a Lockright Powertrax No Slip, you wont even know it's there 99%of the time.
No Pssssst = No problems....

I drove my Falcon ute on road for at least 5 years, prob more, with a welded diff. (way back before Mr Brown started selling his gadgets)
In dry weather, pretty good, in the wet, some understeer, but nothing some throttle tickling couldn't fix.
Also ran 2 LJ50s with welded rears, one for about 3 years, and the other for 3-4 months. Current owner still driving it 18 months later.
DOn't weld the whole lot into a solid mass. Just weld between the teeth in the spider gears. this will allow a tiny bit of movement between axles (maybe 5 - 10 [?] degrees on the hub) Any more than that could result in inertia causing damage.

Matt_85Lux wrote:

DR Frankenstine wrote:DON'T weld up your rear
DON'T put an auto locker in the front
Fit a lokka in the rear they work well for a budget diff lock

Can't agree more, seen mates get in a heap of trouble due to the wrong decision in regards to lokka choice, one nearly rolled his cruiser down Cleb rally due to a lokka in the front (front slid sideways due to wheelspin because the lokka didn't disengage) and the welded option is not much better. I have had welded diffs in road cars and I wouldn't do it ever again, decreased tyre life, extra wear on bushes, extra load on axles which can then snap and the possiblity of teeth being removed from crown/pinion

Cool so because he cant drive they dont work Had he tapped the throttle it would have unlocked as said above learn to drive with them and you wont have a problem. Personally I hate the air locker front I have and wouldnt hesitate in running an auto front again. If you really want the best of all worlds on your current budget then auto lock the front and weld the rear

booflux wrote:

Matt_85Lux wrote:

DR Frankenstine wrote:DON'T weld up your rear
DON'T put an auto locker in the front
Fit a lokka in the rear they work well for a budget diff lock

Can't agree more, seen mates get in a heap of trouble due to the wrong decision in regards to lokka choice, one nearly rolled his cruiser down Cleb rally due to a lokka in the front (front slid sideways due to wheelspin because the lokka didn't disengage) and the welded option is not much better. I have had welded diffs in road cars and I wouldn't do it ever again, decreased tyre life, extra wear on bushes, extra load on axles which can then snap and the possiblity of teeth being removed from crown/pinion

Cool so because he cant drive they dont work Had he tapped the throttle it would have unlocked as said above learn to drive with them and you wont have a problem. Personally I hate the air locker front I have and wouldnt hesitate in running an auto front again. If you really want the best of all worlds on your current budget then auto lock the front and weld the rear

Where in my post did I say they don't work?? All I stated was a possible scenario with an auto locker in the front