Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey guys I'm new to hilux's and all things Toyota so please don't think I'm a joke.

I want to shave the bottom of my lux housing and I'm not sure how much you can take off?
Also i need a new tie rod where do i pick one of those up?

Cheers Josh

search the bible, I think it's in there.


http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... suspension

Depending on the pinion angle of the diff, I found that most of the clearance is gained from removing the drain plug and surrounding ring.

And Pirate:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=456309
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=228464
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=154306
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=93356

Thanks for the links and your help. I read through them and couldn't find out what to do with a drain plug? One yank pulled the bottom 2 bolts and threaded them in backwards to use that as a drain plug but i think that that would be very slow... How have others done it?

I drain mine through the bottom stud. Sure it takes longer to drain, but a couple of minutes?

If its really an issue for you, maybe you could try recessing a drain plug into the housing to avoid mashing it on rocks, while keeping the clearance.

I suppose a couple of minutes means nothing...

Also I'm pulling mine down between posts and I'm unsure if i have longfields or not. The CV's were a pain in the butt to get out (had to spin them around till the flat spots were top and bottom and the hub thingo (where the cvs are kept) has be ground top and bottom. Does this sound like bigger CV's?

31zook wrote:I suppose a couple of minutes means nothing...

Also I'm pulling mine down between posts and I'm unsure if i have longfields or not. The CV's were a pain in the butt to get out (had to spin them around till the flat spots were top and bottom and the hub thingo (where the cvs are kept) has be ground top and bottom. Does this sound like bigger CV's?

Put a pick of them up. You can definitly see the difference between the stock and the dirty 30's. You might find the housing is bent and that's why they are tight.

They don't come out at all unless they are spun round and both sides are the same amount of resistance...





any body know?

With my front diff I just ground off the weld around the plug and welded the plug hole up. The rear diff I shaved fully and used 8mm or 10mm plate to cap the bottom. Left about 3mm - 5mm clearance to the crown wheel.

I was thinking of shaving the bottom of my axle tubes for my next build up. It will be like the offset ones you can buy from locktup but on the cheap.

cheers willy hilux Im a boily so welding is easy and my thing... Don't know think that shaving you axle tubes wil weaken them? Im thinking this shaving is the poor mans portals...lol

Does anyone know what CV's they are?

Stock CVs.

They look like stock berfields. I was going to truss and strengthen the top of the housing for the coil conversion anyway.

You were right about the POOR MAN!

Yup stockers. Was just looking at mine when I took em out for 30 spliners!

Stock.

Unlikely anyone will just be lucky enough to buy a sh!tta and find 30 spliners in it

Dirty 30s are big money and im sure the seller would advertise the fact

sorry if im hijacking the thread but how do you guys tell the difference between standard and dirty 30's

About $900 difference.

barnsy wrote:sorry if im hijacking the thread but how do you guys tell the difference between standard and dirty 30's

Count the splines, and BLING!:

thanks every one

The stock Toyota CV has BIRFIELD-NTN stamped onto it.

sorry to keep pileing questions on the end of something, but is there any way of getting the rotors off without touching the wheel bearings and what NM are wheel bearings ment to be set too?

Cheers Josh

You will need to remove the disc rotor to wheel hub bolts and wheel studs in order to remove the disc brake rotor from the wheel hub. To remove the hub to access the studs and bolts, you will need to remove the hub from the spindle. To remove the hub from the spindle, you will need to upset the wheel hub bearing preload, unfortunately.. Resetting the hub bearing preload is simple, an experienced technician usually does it by feel.. There are torque specifications published, but these only work in ideal conditions. I normally overtighten the bearing adjuster, spin the hub, repeat a few times. This ensures the bearings are properly seated. Then back the adjuster off till theres no load on it, then snug it up till it makes contact with the bearing, then just a tad more.. Too much and the bearing will run hot and the grease will melt out and then eventually fail. Too loose and the lack of preload will cause increased wear and premature failure.. After this, install the lock tab and then the lock nut.. Give the locknut heaps, then bend one tab on the lock tab onto the adjuster nut and one onto the locknut. Done. You will need a 54mm spindle nut socket.

so you do need to touch the bearings.... the only reason i ask was because i didn't have a 54mm socket and the disks were semi rusted onto the brake pads.... but since money has gone into my paypal ill go buy one now... go ebay...