Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hey guys..i have a 95 disco with 2" suspension lift and want to smash in 2" body lift to help clear some scrubbing with my 33's i just put on tonite..
i put in the lift kit myself and was nothin to it but wats involved for a body lift? brake lines etc... is it worth it or not?? pros and cons etc...
thanks guys...

A body lift will work better if you bolt it in . I've always found things that are " smashed in " tend not to last as long. And don't get me started on the engineering aspects of "smashing" , I'm yet to find one that will pass any thing "smashed".

Just my 2c

mikey.reynolds wrote:hey guys..i have a 95 disco with 2" suspension lift and want to smash in 2" body lift to help clear some scrubbing with my 33's i just put on tonite..
i put in the lift kit myself and was nothin to it but wats involved for a body lift? brake lines etc... is it worth it or not?? pros and cons etc...
thanks guys...

hi Mate

yes , It is worth it if you want to clear the 33" on full flex. have you thought about what you're going to do with your Bull Bar and your rear bar , you will need to lift them as well , other wise your Body Lift will look hideous , I've just gone thru all this , 2.5 "inch LRA Body lift kit in my Disco 1, you WILL need to extend your brake lines , you'll have to put in extension on your steering arm as well as the rubber flange looks pretty stressed , LRA now supplies these in the lift kit as well , You may have to pull out your centre console and readust your gear levers for correct throw so it doesn't fowl on the centre console plastic trim even thou the lift kit comes with transfer lever extensions.

all the best and if you can throw up some pics of your lift kit .


here is a pic of mine body lifted.

If you were to buy a kit like the LRA everything is included.
If your a tight ass like me and want to do it yourself, make sure you space the supports for the cargo area to suit your bodylift.......Under the rear wheel arches above the spring perch is where i'm talking about, i've seen a rangie with a caved in floor from not doing it.

Not sure how Disco seatbelts are mounted but in the older rangies they bolted to the chassis so the bolts needed replacing or lengthening.


There just 2 things that people miss out on or forget about.

Also check length of hose to clutch slave cylinder.

Rubber seal for opening in transmission tunnel is screwed down to top of gearbox around gear lever - remove plate and screws before lifting body or rubber will tear.

Disco is weak in area of rear body mounts and those in front of rear wheel arches. These can fail if the cargo floor in not supported properly after body lift.

Hi/low lever hits opening in transmission tunnel after lift and causes problem selecting low - need to mod lever or opening.

Modify brackets to lower radiator (to keep it in relation to engine). May have to lower power steering reservoir.

Or just smash the lift in and forget it.

Bush65 wrote:Also check length of hose to clutch slave cylinder.

Rubber seal for opening in transmission tunnel is screwed down to top of gearbox around gear lever - remove plate and screws before lifting body or rubber will tear.

Disco is weak in area of rear body mounts and those in front of rear wheel arches. These can fail if the cargo floor in not supported properly after body lift.

Hi/low lever hits opening in transmission tunnel after lift and causes problem selecting low - need to mod lever or opening.

Modify brackets to lower radiator (to keep it in relation to engine). May have to lower power steering reservoir.

Or just smash the lift in and forget it.

mickey , definitely pull the colsole out prior to doing any lifting and free up the rubber seal that screws into the transmission tunnel , mine was torn , ask me how

Also John , how does one support the cargo area floor ? can a plate be welded straight onto the floor ? any pics of this ?

thanks guys i friggen has no idea about half that stuff that has to be done to do it right..not real interested in smashin or butchering...yet..cos shes still clean..ill put up some pics when i get the lift in..thanks heaps!!

wouldnt a guard cut be easier and the flairs will make your ride look tough.

yes a cut guards with flares will be the trick and look nice..but there $500..or $1100 fitted.. flares will come next after the lift cos ive cut the rear quater already to help cope with 33's ..waitin on the lift to work out my bars and rear quarter so i know where i want to cut back the rear flares to suit...