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Cold Starts and low revs
Posted: Sat Oct 10, 2009 5:19 pm
by chugga
When I start my Feroza it hesitates in the mornings then she goes ok after putting the foot down. Also Between 1000 to 3000 rpm it lacks power.
Its a new engine, new plugs, leads, air filter, fuel filter,02 sensor and the timing is set properlyand has genie extractors. Any suggestions would help me as its a mystery.
Posted: Sat Oct 10, 2009 9:34 pm
by ulesys
it could be your efi, when my engine was rebuilt my mechanic warned me to be aware of the fact the efi was old and that i could get some performance issues because of that
Posted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 7:41 am
by chugga
Could it be the fuel injectors need cleaning?
Posted: Sun Oct 11, 2009 9:51 am
by wacky
Thats what I was leaning towards - my dad recently bought a car with an odd miss, turns out the fuel filter was letting a lot of particles through and the result was the injectors were clogged with a fine dirt-like substance, one of them to the point of being 90% blocked which would cause missing at idle and low revs, but ran normal in the upper rev range.
At least injectors for the Charade/Applause are still available, so even if one is kaput you could find another set, but I'd get your current ones cleaned - they can get quite dirty.
Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 8:29 am
by MightyMouse
And the diagnostics say ?????
OK its not a very smart system - but if you havn't pulled the ECU error codes then I think now might be a very good time.
ECU engine coolant sensor is a right pain to plug in ( can barely feel it let alone....... ) and could account for the problem BUT pull the codes THEN speculate.
Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 3:43 pm
by chugga
MightyMouse wrote:And the diagnostics say ?????
OK its not a very smart system - but if you havn't pulled the ECU error codes then I think now might be a very good time.
ECU engine coolant sensor is a right pain to plug in ( can barely feel it let alone....... ) and could account for the problem BUT pull the codes THEN speculate.
Its a pain to get to the sensor and its tucked in near the dizzy. The only real way to change it is to remove the dizzy. Has any one else had a problem with the coolant sensor?
Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2009 8:09 pm
by MightyMouse
I'm not saying its faulty - I'm asking if its properly plugged in.....
And the diagnostic system will detect it so original question - what diagnostic codes are you getting ?
Posted: Wed Oct 14, 2009 6:37 pm
by chugga
The diagonostic codes are the ones done on a multi meter? I tested the o2 sensor and the coolant sensor and they worked. Which codes do you mean Mighty?
Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 7:19 am
by MightyMouse
ON the passengers side firewall theres a green connector ( IIRC ) with a cap on it that gives you access to the computers diagnostic system / Lambda sensor / fuel pump signal......
By shorting one of the terminals to ground and then turning on the ignition the MIL light on the dash will blink out error codes - telling you whats wrong... if anything.
Go to WARFS.ORG and download the F300 Manual for the EFI system ( actually get the lot... why not ? its free ) it will tell you what and how, and its a good thing to know anyway.
IIRC the connector is shown the wrong way around in the diagram or was unclear so I checked the wiring colors to be certain.
Its been awhile now so i'm a bit vague ( or more vague than usual... )
THis may not be your problem, but IMO its a great place to start that costs nothing and eliminates the obvious EFI/Computer issues.
Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 6:18 pm
by murcod
I'd be checking the vaccum advance lines are connected correctly between the inlet manifold/ throttle body and the two vacuum advance "servos" on the distributor. Also check the timing was set at the correct revs and with the vacuum advance disconnected.
PS: You should be able to see the change in advance (using a timing light) when you disconnect the line as well. That will help confirm that the distributor mechanism is sort of working.
Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 9:16 pm
by chugga
Thanks guys im on a mission. Let you know what happens
Posted: Fri Oct 16, 2009 6:27 am
by MightyMouse
Yep Murcods idea is well worth doing - good suggestion.
in fact in some earlier thread I commented that the internal ball race that the vacuum advance runs on in the dissy has a nasty habit of getting stiff / or binding up due to the grease used in it going hard.
Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 7:06 pm
by chugga
Can some one please describe which terminals to short on the test terminal as the manual does not show exactly which 2 to connect.
Posted: Tue Oct 20, 2009 5:13 pm
by chugga
Yeah found all the details to do the tests. It came out to have 11 lights indicating either air condition problem or the throttle position sensor. Ill try to replace the throttle sensor at let you know how it goes
Posted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 6:44 am
by MightyMouse
TPS is a common failure item -switch arms that sense the idle position deform - its simply a crap design.
I've used a bosch unit on mine - it has propper microswitches but don't ask which one - i've forgotten ages ago
Was an article on WARFS and maybee posts here.
Posted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 8:41 am
by chugga
Its taken 2 years to find the problem! Thanks mighty it was the TPS. The diagonostic ECU works great once you understand it.
Posted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 2:21 pm
by MightyMouse
Glad it worked out for you - as I said its not uncommon.
Don't try and repair the switch - I did, and if you get the operation of the internals slightly out of wack it does all maneer of strange things
Some applauses use the same switch but just check as others arere differnt electrically - but MAY be able to be adapted.
Perhaps post EXACTLY which pin gets shorted to ground ( ( middle / front ?) in the diag connector.
Posted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 8:51 am
by chugga
Yes ill post a pic of the terminals to short as the direction in the manual is incorrect. Once you learn how to do a self diagnostic test you will save time and money