Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hey
finished work today driving home and just as i got to my drive way the brakes on the 92 wt sierra started to play up. it feels as if ive got bad brake fade. and even if i really stand on them they wont lock. theres also a bit of a smell coming from them. but the thing is i hadnts bin braking hard at all. its actually a 5 min highway run b4 my house so i hadnt braked at all.

can anyone help me as this is my daily driver atm.

my brakes do leak between the master cylinder and the reservior. (already raplaced the to o-rings, it stopped for a while but now its back. but its always topped up.)

the front rotors are only about 8 months old.

brakes have always felt spongey. but still worked fine

hey mate... it sounds like you may have a leak or a master cylinder problem...

i am leaning towards a master cylinder problem.

keep pumping and topping up sluid as needed and see which rear wheel develops a wet patch.
fix as required

i checked all that and couldnt find a wet patch. im gonna take it for another drive but steady. just to see if its changed

checked it all again and no wet patches took it for a drive and it was back to normal. could the brakes be dragging abit causing them to heat up. it is a very hot day today. 38 degrees in the sun

One trip in mud can destroy your pads especially in the rear. If the rear are wore substantially then the front wont function as they should.
check the rear

havnt bin 4wding for ages but ill check it out

mrRocky wrote:One trip in mud can destroy your pads especially in the rear. If the rear are wore substantially then the front wont function as they should.
check the rear

Doesn't a 92 wt have drums in the rear?

Ben_Sierra wrote:

mrRocky wrote:One trip in mud can destroy your pads especially in the rear. If the rear are wore substantially then the front wont function as they should.
check the rear

Doesn't a 92 wt have drums in the rear?

they are all drum break rear.

brake pads/shoes
Didnt mean to imply rears were discs, mud and gunk get traped in the rear drums and erode the brake shoes at a rate much quicker than they would normally wear.

but would that cause them to not work properly and them wen everythings cooled down they work properly again.

If it was me I would replace all pads front and rear.
Bleed/flush brake system with about 600ml of fluid to make sure its clean.
Then as a last resort look at actual disc rotors then the booster/mast cyl itself.

If you start with something simple like pads first then you can eliminate other things one by one. A brake shop may be able to diagnose it quickly and cheaply, or then again it might cost you an arm and a leg, you have to weigh up what your capable of doing as its simple enough but brakes can mean the diff between life and death so double check all your work.

mrRocky wrote:If it was me I would replace all pads front and rear.
Bleed/flush brake system with about 600ml of fluid to make sure its clean.
Then as a last resort look at actual disc rotors then the booster/mast cyl itself.

If you start with something simple like pads first then you can eliminate other things one by one. A brake shop may be able to diagnose it quickly and cheaply, or then again it might cost you an arm and a leg, you have to weigh up what your capable of doing as its simple enough but brakes can mean the diff between life and death so double check all your work.

^^^ what he said

pretty much if you get any mud or sand in a break drum it will wear your pads down really quick. clean them out asap and adjust if you have too.

brakes are working fine now. i did nutting to them. the only thing i can think of is the rears jumped to the next adjustment and were dragging which caused brake fade.

brakes are working fine now. i did nutting to them. the only thing i can think of is the rears jumped to the next adjustment and were dragging which caused brake fade.