Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey guys I have a 96 duel cab 2.8D with 2’’ body lift and 33’’s and I have an idea on what I what to do for some flex just need some advice as to if it will work or some changes it needs.

Idea is as follows, front- putting rear springs on front and replacing the bottom three leafs with the three from the front leaf pack also superior extended shackles will be fitted. Maybe rancho 9000s

Rear- getting some second hand IFS springs and putting on rear with extended shackles and not sure on shocks thinking about rancho 9000s.

Leafs are in good condition. Also how much longer break lines will I require and should I disconnect my torque rod on the front, how worried should I be about axle wrap if I do so. Diffs are open at the moment. Any advice will help thanks

have you done a search on this, theres plenty of threads on ruf, ifs rears. custom spring packs, etc

sounds like a plan so far.

the ruf up front will flex well enough to destroy your steering set up so watch that and consider limiting how far in can droop on the drivers side. it will flex well past where normal 2-3 inch lift shochs will top out.

as for which leaves to keep - play around with it a bit. I run 1 slightly bigger leaf in the drivers side to stop the hilux lean - so far its still sitting level.

front brake lines will be ok if you just remove the retainer clips where they meet the chassis, but flex it up and make sure they are not going to get damaged - if you want to do it properly you will; probably want about 100-150mm longer lines depending on how long your shocks are. again to test remove those clips flex it up and see how much longer they would need to be then add some more for comfort. when you fit them make sure they arent going to foul with tyres etc for normal driving.

my torque rod is not currently connected and seems ok, but i havent gone for super light fron set up. eg if you went to like 3 leafs and max flex then wrap will be bad with out it, if your sticking with 6 or so and going for solid but not huge flex then it should be ok - but might not be legal??? but then again neither will your extended shakles etc.

if your doing ruf - you need to consider your front diff placment. the locator pin is further forward than with your standard springs. you can use the center diff locator hole, or move forward or backward to movce your diff from 12 - 75mm forward which is good for stopping 33's rubbing on your fire wall.

I only moved mine 25mm, but you need to think of the following to do so. your drive shaft will be too short and need a spacer or longer shaft made up. i used a 25mm spacer and its just enough but i would rather say 40-50 ideally.

your torque rod will need changing in length or buy an adjustable one for about $110.

your drag link will need changing too - i have heard that for 25mm shift forward you can get away with keeping the existing one, but most get a adjustable 'dropped drag link' which helps reduce issues in steering when you lift the front end. approx $200.

hope that helps.

DUDELUX wrote:have you done a search on this, theres plenty of threads on ruf, ifs rears. custom spring packs, etc

but not many have 'all' the info you need. I agree its been touched on many times, i did heaps of searching before i did mine and found about 25% of all the info or explanations.

search is great... but...

To do a RUF properly you will need to go x-over or high steer. You will just brake your J arm or rip ya steering wheel out of ya hands.

Going RUF and buying a dropped drag link is a waste of money. No one goes for the dropped drag link unless its getting a lift for the wank factor.

If ya want somthing that works, don't bother with the standard steering setup.

Willy Hilux wrote:To do a RUF properly you will need to go x-over or high steer. You will just brake your J arm or rip ya steering wheel out of ya hands.

Going RUF and buying a dropped drag link is a waste of money. No one goes for the dropped drag link unless its getting a lift for the wank factor.

If ya want somthing that works, don't bother with the standard steering setup.

x eleventy.

yamaha__308 wrote:

Willy Hilux wrote:To do a RUF properly you will need to go x-over or high steer. You will just brake your J arm or rip ya steering wheel out of ya hands.

Going RUF and buying a dropped drag link is a waste of money. No one goes for the dropped drag link unless its getting a lift for the wank factor.

If ya want somthing that works, don't bother with the standard steering setup.

x eleventy.

Yep spot on if you dont have crossover and much longer shocks its just a wank, i could max out 10''travel shocks without ruf and no torque rod, then went crossover and ruf to move the diff forward but need hoops and much longer shocks to make it work.

Id be looking into it a bit more before you waste your time n $$...

yer i got the shackles today. thinkin i could just play around with some leaf packs to get some flex didn't take much time to think about steering. mite have to save up some coin and get a high steer set up, prob save me bending steering rods in the long run.

could i use standard steering or is that just askin to break it. so i got kinda sorted just need to work the steering out, and move my diff forward and space the front tail shart. and disconnect the touque rod

If you get the kind of flex you should, you will need a 10" shaft spline from locked up 4X4. Just spacing the original won't be enough

i have been reading and it seems that i am better off going all out first time and doing it right to get some real flex. i still need to work out the whole cross over/ high steer thing, mite get some parts together and see what i can do.

DR Frankenstine wrote:If you get the kind of flex you should, you will need a 10" shaft spline from locked up 4X4. Just spacing the original won't be enough

RHS shaft. WAY cheaper.

lux_kid wrote:i have been reading and it seems that i am better off going all out first time and doing it right to get some real flex. i still need to work out the whole cross over/ high steer thing, mite get some parts together and see what i can do.

Good on ya! It'll be better off in the long run.

yamaha__308 wrote:

DR Frankenstine wrote:If you get the kind of flex you should, you will need a 10" shaft spline from locked up 4X4. Just spacing the original won't be enough

RHS shaft. WAY cheaper.

Yea its only fancy rich people that buy a longer spline shaft.

lux_kid wrote: i have been reading and it seems that i am better off going all out first time and doing it right to get some real flex. i still need to work out the whole cross over/ high steer thing, mite get some parts together and see what i can do.

Yea mate theres a few companys that incorporate all the gear you need into kits steering/suspension/brake lines etc.
Try companys like locktup4x4 is fairly affordable if you can install everything yourself.

gettin some break lines from a mates rolled lux tomorrow and a rear diff to weld up.
also with the shaft is an rhs one good for on road or will it be out of balence when on highway. and do i need one if i put ifs springs on the rear.

search my build, mines done with standard springs, stocko steer. Mines daily driver, Goes everywhere i want, ive tryed heaps of diff shit, so search my thread. Alot of my stuff is done to be still drivable on the road.

I had the same thoughts as you.. Our comp'd hilux is the way aaron was describing(willy), though i still drive all the same shit in my ute as the full trailer spec hilux, with superior treatment front to back... Think hard about what ya spend ya money on thats all i can say.

Also really depends on what ya waana do with the truck...

Weavle

Willy Hilux wrote:To do a RUF properly you will need to go x-over or high steer. You will just brake your J arm or rip ya steering wheel out of ya hands.

Going RUF and buying a dropped drag link is a waste of money. No one goes for the dropped drag link unless its getting a lift for the wank factor.

If ya want somthing that works, don't bother with the standard steering setup.

entirely.

however not everyone wants to/can justify going the whole hog. it depends on what your trying to achieve.

if you dont want/need pron star flex but want more than you currently have, want to shift your diff forward etc then this does work fine. gets me everywhere i can go without getting bigger rubber etc. Im yet to damage any steering components, but im also limiting down flex because i still have std steering and dont want to get stranded somewhere.

it achieved what i wanted, bit of lift, shift diff forward, fit 33's without rubbing/binding etc.

the dropped drag link is only because i couldnt find an adjustable one which wasnt dropped, and you cant cut and weld steering components legally.

but yeah if you can go cross over etc then

I have a shortened up straight draglink... fully agjustable. I dont have mass lift so i can get away with it. Flex's really well for what it is. Does everything ya point it at. The only problem being is ya DONT HAVE THE MECHANICLE ADVANTAGE/LEVERAGE THAT YA GOT WITH X/HIGHSTEER... so, unless ya liek, super comp driver spec, where it comes in handy turning the wheel hard on big rocks, ya gottah start thinking hydro assist or full hydro anyways, sooo how far do ya wanna go is the question pending...

lux_kid wrote: also with the shaft is an rhs one good for on road or will it be out of balence when on highway. and do i need one if i put ifs springs on the rear.

Unless you have your hubs locked, you wont feel a thing...

You may need to extend your rear shaft with IFS rears, but you wont require any more slip, just extend.

While the Aussie dollar is good, it's time to spend up. Shop around. Maybe import the high steer arms yourself.

yeh negative on the extending the rear shaft for ifs rears.. i never had to.. they bring the rear diff back just shy of 25mm, and there is plenty of shaft to accomadate that. They dont flex that 'off tap' as such.

i got the extended break lines yesterday and the diff and my mate got some other stuff. mite just do the rear how i want it and think and research the front some more.
with a ruff set up do i need dropped front hangers.

Lux_89 wrote:I have a shortened up straight draglink... fully agjustable. I dont have mass lift so i can get away with it. Flex's really well for what it is. Does everything ya point it at. The only problem being is ya DONT HAVE THE MECHANICLE ADVANTAGE/LEVERAGE THAT YA GOT WITH X/HIGHSTEER... so, unless ya liek, super comp driver spec, where it comes in handy turning the wheel hard on big rocks, ya gottah start thinking hydro assist or full hydro anyways, sooo how far do ya wanna go is the question pending...

wouldn't i need a slitly longer drag link to accont for the more angle for the lift and could i just bend/extend the j arm to allow the ball joint to move on a lesser angle

lux_kid wrote:

Lux_89 wrote:I have a shortened up straight draglink... fully agjustable. I dont have mass lift so i can get away with it. Flex's really well for what it is. Does everything ya point it at. The only problem being is ya DONT HAVE THE MECHANICLE ADVANTAGE/LEVERAGE THAT YA GOT WITH X/HIGHSTEER... so, unless ya liek, super comp driver spec, where it comes in handy turning the wheel hard on big rocks, ya gottah start thinking hydro assist or full hydro anyways, sooo how far do ya wanna go is the question pending...

wouldn't i need a slitly longer drag link to accont for the more angle for the lift and could i just bend/extend the j arm to allow the ball joint to move on a lesser angle

if your doing it properly then you drop the front cross member/ spring mounts 50mm.

the drag link gets shortened as it moves your diff forward - a major improvment for larger tyres.

the length of the drag link in relation to lift will be a minimal change.

I dont think j arms like being bend - and your not supposed to use any steering component which has been effected by heat or bent.

If ya gunna do a dropped front cross member - Bring it forward 25mm at the same time. I run mine 25mm+ as well as 25mm on the spring perch. Helps clear 37" tyres. Haven't had to tub the firewall.

Have a good read at peoples comments and come up with what you're after in the end. You got to say to yourself. Is this going to be a street driven car or go the whole hog and make it a purpose built offroader.

Alot of people have done all this before and have a good understanding of what works and what doesn't. Also what can be done on the cheap to get something that can work as good as off the shelf stuff.

For a very capable hilux I recomend the following

1. Dropped front cross member 25mm forward
2. RUF with 2" extended shackles
3. IFS rears with 200mm extended shackles
4. Rear ladder bar (anty wrap bar)
5. lockers front and rear (Your choice to suit budget)
6. Transfer gears or dual transfers
7. Cross over or high steer

1,2,3 & 4 can be done very cheaply if you're mechanical minded. 5, 6 & 7 is what's gunna cost you the $$$.

I think around $4500 if you did most yourself. Maybe cheaper if you just use a welded rear diff.

made some shackles today for a mates lux.
thanks heaps to u blokes for all ya help learn't heaps, i will post some photos of the lux when its done....