Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Trying to work out the best way to mount the front coilovers to the chassis?,
Im thinking 10mm plate welded to the chassis, 1 1/2 rhs welded to the 10mm plate and then the 1 1/2 shock hoop welded onto the rhs? Itll be braced from hoop to hoop over the motor aswell.
That sound strong enough?
Anyone got any pics of what they have done?, tried searching....

4mm plate will be fine on the chassis, just spread it over a large area. 10mm is overkill and will crack the chassis.

edit. look on pirate in the desert section or on racedezert.com

Your fitch plates welded to the chassis should only be the same thickness as the chassis material. So ~4mm. As the above post ^^ 10mm is way overkill and could cause cracking around the area. The fitch plate should be approx twice as long as the height of the chassis and have angled ends with no sharp corners that could create a stress point.

Layto....

Cheers guys.

lay80n wrote:The fitch plate should be approx twice as long as the height of the chassis and have angled ends with no sharp corners that could create a stress point.

Layto....

If it should only be twice as long as the height of chassis, if the mounts dont fit within this area then do i have a plate for each mount?

i personally prefer to run a single plate for both mounts, and also extend it down the chassis to the first body mount, especially if this is for ifs to solid conversion. remember to do a few plug welds on the plate too.

yea ifs to solid. Thanks.

IMHO probably the nicest coilover shock mounts I have seen on the net. There on a 100 Series Cruiser in the States




Made to fit these

Squeak wrote:IMHO probably the nicest coilover shock mounts I have seen on the net. There on a 100 Series Cruiser in the States

Very nice mounts!

I would have extended them to the very bottom of the side plate so that it doesn't crack.

Also in NSW at least, you are not allowed to weld on the top or bottom plates - that one has welded all over the top plate.

Interesting radius arms. How well do they flex?

theyre jeep arms... id imagine theyd flex very well..

hey joshy, you got a buildup on here yet, id like to see what you've done so far on this, i cant go on 4wdaction anymore to see which is why.

Zip Ties!!!!!

RIVETS

There some nice mounts..

pinkfloyddsotm wrote:hey joshy, you got a buildup on here yet, id like to see what you've done so far on this, i cant go on 4wdaction anymore to see which is why.

Nah not yet, might have to start one.

joshy wrote:There some nice mounts..

pinkfloyddsotm wrote:hey joshy, you got a buildup on here yet, id like to see what you've done so far on this, i cant go on 4wdaction anymore to see which is why.

Nah not yet, might have to start one.

do it

its in members rigs now.

made up a 4mm fish plate and tacked it to the chassis, then 2 2" 3mm wall rhs welded to that with 1 1/2 holes in the top, finally the 1 1/2 2.5mm wall tube welded into them. havent decided if thats how it will stay, still to be braced and will be ground back and fully welded. Should be right?

The ends of your fish plates should be like <> so that you are not welding vertically on the chassis.

Layto....

Just an observation, if you shouldn't weld vertically on your chassis, would that still be the case with those RHS pieces getting welded vertically on the fish plate?

TWISTY wrote:Just an observation, if you shouldn't weld vertically on your chassis, would that still be the case with those RHS pieces getting welded vertically on the fish plate?

I think the idea is to protect the integrity of the chassis.

The fish plate may crack where the RHS is welded, but the chassis will not suffer any damage. Not much help if your suspension colapses at speed, but the chassis will remain intact.

Cheers

I was always under the impression you use toob for that sort of stuff to avoid stress concentrations ..

love_mud wrote:I was always under the impression you use toob for that sort of stuff to avoid stress concentrations ..

i figured it would be easier to get better penetration overall weld with the RHS.

Is tube the better way tho?

brace the right tower to the left tower - use flanges or camburg joiners if needed. On ians I could move them with my hands left to right. The chassis is under torsional loading and is not designed for the extra leverage high mounts add.

joshy wrote:

love_mud wrote:I was always under the impression you use toob for that sort of stuff to avoid stress concentrations ..

i figured it would be easier to get better penetration overall weld with the RHS.

Is tube the better way tho?

I am not an engineer by any strech .. I am a computer nerd who can stick a couple of bit of metal together .. Excuse my terminaology etc and if I seem like I am trying to tell you how to suck eggs

With a round, there are no points where stress can concerntrate (corners) Also with square your hoop is putting all its load into one plane (the top flat bit of the RHS think of trying to bend just that one side of the RHS .. say a piece of 3mm thick steel as the shock cycles 1000000's of times it will fatuige over time...

If the mount of the chassis fitch plate was tube and the shock hoop fishmouthed (wrap around the tube) .. you would get a few planes of weld for both ... so it should be ultimately stronger and less likley to fail due to fatuige.

Will you be running a cross brace between the hoops at all ?

bru21 wrote:brace the right tower to the left tower - use flanges or camburg joiners if needed. On ians I could move them with my hands left to right. The chassis is under torsional loading and is not designed for the extra leverage high mounts add.

yea will deffinetly be putting a cross brace in over the top

love_mud wrote:

joshy wrote:

love_mud wrote:I was always under the impression you use toob for that sort of stuff to avoid stress concentrations ..

i figured it would be easier to get better penetration overall weld with the RHS.

Is tube the better way tho?

I am not an engineer by any strech .. I am a computer nerd who can stick a couple of bit of metal together .. Excuse my terminaology etc and if I seem like I am trying to tell you how to suck eggs

With a round, there are no points where stress can concerntrate (corners) Also with square your hoop is putting all its load into one plane (the top flat bit of the RHS think of trying to bend just that one side of the RHS .. say a piece of 3mm thick steel as the shock cycles 1000000's of times it will fatuige over time...

If the mount of the chassis fitch plate was tube and the shock hoop fishmouthed (wrap around the tube) .. you would get a few planes of weld for both ... so it should be ultimately stronger and less likley to fail due to fatuige.

Will you be running a cross brace between the hoops at all ?

Im no engineer either, just a fitter. i agree with the corners but figured with the load being on the one plane, the rhs has more support from underneath?

I am neither but..

Q has an engineer have to sign these off?

if so how does he want them done

yep and thats a good idea

nicbeer wrote:I am neither but..

Q has an engineer have to sign these off?

if so how does he want them done

Now theres an idea ...