Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Well the story is i have a 91 80 full time 4wd with the usual driveline backlash. It also has an annoying 'diff' shudder when slipping the clutch. It's not the clutch itself, as removing the front driveshaft and running rear wheel drive fixes almost all of the problem.

The issue i have is that i miss the constant 4wd. I would rather have it then install a part time kit.

So my question is has anyone else had this problem to this degree and solved it?

The front diff appears as though it was recently rebuilt or replaced (prior to my ownership anyway) as there are fresh looking paint marks on the pinion nut and is overall a bit cleaner than the rear diff. So if I assume the diff to be ok, then would replacing the cvs and driveflanges with the later model ones be a good move? Or am I still likely to have shudder/backlash due to the centre or rear diff?

oldmate wrote:Well the story is i have a 91 80 full time 4wd with the usual driveline backlash. It also has an annoying 'diff' shudder when slipping the clutch. It's not the clutch itself, as removing the front driveshaft and running rear wheel drive fixes almost all of the problem.

The issue i have is that i miss the constant 4wd. I would rather have it then install a part time kit.

So my question is has anyone else had this problem to this degree and solved it?

The front diff appears as though it was recently rebuilt or replaced (prior to my ownership anyway) as there are fresh looking paint marks on the pinion nut and is overall a bit cleaner than the rear diff. So if I assume the diff to be ok, then would replacing the cvs and driveflanges with the later model ones be a good move? Or am I still likely to have shudder/backlash due to the centre or rear diff?

I have basically the same problem in mine. Bloke i know told me to get the transfercase rebuilt which i did and the problem seemed alot better but came back not long after it was done. I should have had the (what the f*#!@ it called?) stub axle caps replaced- the thing that slides over the stub axle spline to make the wheel drive. Sorry i'm stuck for the name of it but they aren't expensive to buy and look straight forward to replace. Can't explain the diff shudder, i thought it was the clutch. Someone with more experience could help you out on that but i think if you had a look at the two caps it might explain why you get some backlash.

rowenb wrote:

oldmate wrote:Well the story is i have a 91 80 full time 4wd with the usual driveline backlash. It also has an annoying 'diff' shudder when slipping the clutch. It's not the clutch itself, as removing the front driveshaft and running rear wheel drive fixes almost all of the problem.

The issue i have is that i miss the constant 4wd. I would rather have it then install a part time kit.

So my question is has anyone else had this problem to this degree and solved it?

The front diff appears as though it was recently rebuilt or replaced (prior to my ownership anyway) as there are fresh looking paint marks on the pinion nut and is overall a bit cleaner than the rear diff. So if I assume the diff to be ok, then would replacing the cvs and driveflanges with the later model ones be a good move? Or am I still likely to have shudder/backlash due to the centre or rear diff?

I have basically the same problem in mine. Bloke i know told me to get the transfercase rebuilt which i did and the problem seemed alot better but came back not long after it was done. I should have had the (what the f*#!@ it called?) stub axle caps replaced- the thing that slides over the stub axle spline to make the wheel drive. Sorry i'm stuck for the name of it but they aren't expensive to buy and look straight forward to replace. Can't explain the diff shudder, i thought it was the clutch. Someone with more experience could help you out on that but i think if you had a look at the two caps it might explain why you get some backlash.

Pretty sure the name you are looking for is drive flange.

got the same problem, just fitted a new clutch an thats when it started really bad, wasnt an issue before that unless in reverse. Now mostly when stop start and on a slope. Causes the clutch to burn but.

fit some new good quality CV shafts and drive flange plates. this will take care of most of the slop. also use CVs and flanges from post 94 model, the splines are longer and shouldnt wear as fast.

hobzee does a kit that fixes the problem, you can find him on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Landcruiser-80-s ... 335655ac59

cheers steve

scuba steve 22 wrote:hobzee does a kit that fixes the problem, you can find him on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Landcruiser-80-s ... 335655ac59

cheers steve

its worth waying up price versus quality. I put these in mine and busted one of the CVs, it hadnt been abused IMO, when it broke it also destroyed around $300 in associated parts and almost destroyed the iner axle too. I wont touch cheap CVs with a 40' stick again
If all you are worried about is stopping backlash and dont do any serious offroad, the link above will do the trick.

a double cardon on your front drive shaft will fix all your problems

a double cardon on your front drive shaft will fix all your problems

thanks for the replies. the hobzee link is the one i had in mind when thinking of replacing the cvs and flanges. I've already got a double cardin on the front as i had a 4 inch lift (now 3).

Having been driving around for the past month or so on rear wheel drive, i put the front shaft back on thursday to go wheelin today. In short it's a crap drive. extra vibration, steering feel etc.

Obviously already knew what it was like but when you trial the 2wd you do realise how much better it is.

So I think i'll just suck it up and go the part time kit now. Alot less hassle now on a truck with 350k

Sucks to think those of rover boys driving trucks with the same mileage that don't have these issues :(

bruiser wrote:a double cardon on your front drive shaft will fix all your problems

whats a double cardon mate?

rowenb wrote:

bruiser wrote:a double cardon on your front drive shaft will fix all your problems

whats a double cardon mate?

Its 2 unis in one housing back to back they are spose to help bad angles on drive shafts .

The best fix is to use a CV type of joint google tom woods drivelines in the US he has the shyte

Here ya's go lookie here http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html the shyte

So you have fitted d-cordons and its all fixed now bruiser???

Yep. perfect and has been for years now. Oh and I meant double cardan, not cardon
The D/C , double cardan is a constant velocity joint. a normal uni joint speeds up and slows down during every revolution. (unless it is running no angle at all)
If the angle the shaft makes at the diff and the angle at the transfer case are the same the speeding up and slowing down is in sinc. (Normal case of a truck with no lift)
When you do a lift the angles are no longer the same so the front uni is slowing down and speeding up out of time with the rear one. This is what causes the backlash and vibes.

Read all this and check the two different graphs showing changes in rational speed through a 360 degree rotation
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_joint

Did you just put it on your front or both front and rear? And did you end up using the hilux 1? Also cost to get drive shaft shortened?

front shaft only and at transfer case end. The angle from the front diff is usually close to zero after installing a lift that warrents the d/c
So the joint at that end runs at constant speed. It's at the transfer case end you have the large angle and the changing rotational speeds. hence D/C requirement

But in your othert thread it say the shop took your front shaft out and the noise was still there. I thought that would have fixed it.

hmmm. will have to read back through that. it was years ago. But no. no problem when front shaft was taken off.

can't see where i have said that. but there was never a problem with front shaft off.

Ok, no worries.

Hey Oldmate did you fit a part time kit to your cruiser. I'm thinking of doing the same thing, after changing my drive flanges and cv's twice in the last 3 years now.

double cardons arnt designed to run all the time they flog out real quick