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Thomas PTO shear pins

Posted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 11:19 am
by rockcrawler31
Can anyone tell me what material and diameter the shear pins are on a Thomas 9000lb PTO winch? I rang the suppliers today and they quoted me 5 bucks each for them. Which for a straight piece of brass (or whatever it's made of) seems a bit steep, considering they just cut it off a length of rod and there's no real machining or labour time involved

Posted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 11:30 am
by GUtripper
Brass isnt cheap.
$5 each isnt too much to ask is it?
But dont know the answer to your question, so I'll just go away now......

Re: Thomas PTO shear pins

Posted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 11:33 am
by Guy
rockcrawler31 wrote:Can anyone tell me what material and diameter the shear pins are on a Thomas 9000lb PTO winch? I rang the suppliers today and they quoted me 5 bucks each for them. Which for a straight piece of brass (or whatever it's made of) seems a bit steep, considering they just cut it off a length of rod and there's no real machining or labour time involved
$5 to know your getting the right tool for the job .. seems reasonable to me..

Posted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 11:55 am
by MattGU
A mate had a similar problem with his Toyota PTO

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic548 ... hlight=pto

Posted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 4:55 pm
by rockcrawler31
Thanks for the input guys.

I realise we're only talking about 15 bucks for a couple of spare pins here, but think about it -

If i find out what they're made of i can make as many as i like, and accordingly push my winch as hard as i like knowing that i can cheaply replace the pins.

A good quality high tensile bolt of a similar size is about 3 bucks and that has to be cast, threaded and heat treated.

Similarly a set of high tensile 8mm dowels for my hubs cost 2 bucks each. Every little bit counts

Posted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 6:20 pm
by Tojo
rockcrawler31 wrote:Thanks for the input guys.

I realise we're only talking about 15 bucks for a couple of spare pins here, but think about it -

If i find out what they're made of i can make as many as i like, and accordingly push my winch as hard as i like knowing that i can cheaply replace the pins.

A good quality high tensile bolt of a similar size is about 3 bucks and that has to be cast, threaded and heat treated.

Similarly a set of high tensile 8mm dowels for my hubs cost 2 bucks each. Every little bit counts
in that case buy 1 for $5 and find out the size and material. Then source your own material and make additional spares. Do a write up on here as well.

Posted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 11:07 pm
by Patroler
could always make up a jig to replicate the joint it fits into and shear test an original one and compare it to different materials.
An idea i had was to put a clutch in the shaft in place of the shear pin, have seen it talked about on here before, that way when max torque is reached the clutch pops out, a lot simpler to reset than crawl around replacing shear pins.
The clutch i'm on about is used in a lot of industrial applications to prevent damage to equipment, we use them where i work but not the correct size for a PTO winch - and i don't know how they go with dirt and moisture, may need a cover, so much to do so little time...

Posted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 1:47 am
by rockcrawler31
Tojo wrote:
rockcrawler31 wrote:Thanks for the input guys.

I realise we're only talking about 15 bucks for a couple of spare pins here, but think about it -

If i find out what they're made of i can make as many as i like, and accordingly push my winch as hard as i like knowing that i can cheaply replace the pins.

A good quality high tensile bolt of a similar size is about 3 bucks and that has to be cast, threaded and heat treated.

Similarly a set of high tensile 8mm dowels for my hubs cost 2 bucks each. Every little bit counts
in that case buy 1 for $5 and find out the size and material. Then source your own material and make additional spares. Do a write up on here as well.
Size is easy really, i have the winch on my car after all, and it just needs to be an interference fit with the ends mashed over a bit. It's the material grade that is difficult and you can't work that out just by looking at it. Even if you know that it's Brass or Bronze, you need to know the grade, alloying properties and shear strength. I like the idea of the clutch disconnect, but like you say Patroler, so much to do so little time :lol:

Posted: Wed Oct 28, 2009 9:28 pm
by Dane
rockcrawler31 wrote: It's the material grade that is difficult and you can't work that out just by looking at it. Even if you know that it's Brass or Bronze, you need to know the grade, alloying properties and shear strength.
Like you say, many intricacies to condsider. Just buy some. For a bloke that rakes in the big bucks on the rigs you are a tight arse :finger:

Posted: Thu Oct 29, 2009 2:14 am
by rockcrawler31
Dane wrote:
rockcrawler31 wrote: It's the material grade that is difficult and you can't work that out just by looking at it. Even if you know that it's Brass or Bronze, you need to know the grade, alloying properties and shear strength.
Like you say, many intricacies to condsider. Just buy some. For a bloke that rakes in the big bucks on the rigs you are a tight arse :finger:
Erm big bucks? I'm probably the lowest paid out here at the moment, and i'm an engineer :oops:

Besides, i've been put on notice about spending more money on my junk