Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Righto, I've reached a fairly crucial point in my build up, and that is sorting out the engine to ensure she's going to be reliable enough not to need the local towing service to rescue me every time. The current 3F has a blown head gasket and I suspect has been running around like that for some time in the hands of the previous owner.

Obviously the quick and easy fix is a change over head, VRS kit, a few beers and away we go. But thinking longer-term, I have considered doing a complete change over unit or replacing the 3F with something a bit more, well, decent. Hope that doesn't offend anyone........ The car is a 1985 FJ73 running on dual fuel, 31's and it has the 5 speed manual behind it. Planned usage is just as a weekender but it may need to fill in as a daily every now and then.

So, the question is are there any engines in the toyota stable that bolt in with minimum fuss and minimal wiring/plumbing changes? And, if so, does anyone out there have one they're willing to part with for the apporpriate $$?

If you looking for a good 3F I have a low km 80 series 3F i'm getting rid of, head is removed for inspection.

cheers

There is always the opption of full rebuild which i am doing at the moment for about $2300 (if your block and head is good ie not warped or cracked) you pull it out and put back in the 4wd for that price, bigger motors or better motors can sound good, more power, but keeping it original is most the time better due to parts being easyer to find for standed 4wds. In saying all that it was hard not to up grade my 3f when it stopped running well if you are keeping it on gas shave the head 40 thou, ment to be better for gas/petrol and will give you a little more power.
Just my 2 cents worth though good luck

The later model 3F sounds like a good idea, minimum fuss which is what I'm after. Anyone know what upgrades the 3F got in the 80? Does it run the same carby/manifolds etc?

The later 3F from an 80 series has an oil cooler, different cam timing for more low down torque and a "improved" rotating assembly from what I have read, not sure what it entails but something like better pistions etc not to sure though. Probably a few other things too.

pull the head off and send it to a cylinder head specialist to be crack tested and re-surfaced. no point spending extra cash on a newer 3f that is exactly the same.

Pulling the head off for testing is fine, but as I said originally I think the previous owner was driving around with a blown gasket for ages, probably without knowing. Judging from the condition of the oil when I drained it, I'd say it's been neglected for quite a while. I reckon that with the oil like it was, the bottom end would have copped a flogging, as well as cam bearings, lobes, lifters etc. Not exactly what I want in an engine thats going to be doing long distance bush driving.

ey mate i got a full reco'd head for a 3f prolly done 2000km and a spare head and ill chuck in wateva else i can find for $300 in eltham vic

Thanks Brentz, but after having a really good look over mine on the hoist yesterday I've decided to pull the engine and throw another one in.
Cheers Hulsty!

Now, 2 more questiosn for everyone:

From a very superficial look at where the bell housing bolts up to the engine, it would appear I have to pull the bell housing out with the motor and sperate the two out of the car. Is this correct?

I'm chasing a VRS for the 3F, but apparently there is a difference in the kits for the early 80 series 3Fs. I don't want to get caught out with the wrong head gasket or anything, so if anyone knows what the difference is, I would love to know!

gixxerpilot wrote:
So, the question is are there any engines in the toyota stable that bolt in with minimum fuss and minimal wiring/plumbing changes? And, if so, does anyone out there have one they're willing to part with for the apporpriate $$?

are u still thinking of this or have u decided to stick with 3f

if a diferent engine type then more info on what you are interested in and what u want to use the truck for also do u want to keep it petrol or would u want it a diesel

it hurts but
BUDGET???

and how much can u do?
or willing to do

cheers

You can pull the motor and box together OR, pull the gearbox, remove the clutch and flywheel, then the bellhousing then the motor.

gixxerpilot wrote:Thanks Brentz, but after having a really good look over mine on the hoist yesterday I've decided to pull the engine and throw another one in.
Cheers Hulsty!

Now, 2 more questiosn for everyone:

From a very superficial look at where the bell housing bolts up to the engine, it would appear I have to pull the bell housing out with the motor and sperate the two out of the car. Is this correct?

I'm chasing a VRS for the 3F, but apparently there is a difference in the kits for the early 80 series 3Fs. I don't want to get caught out with the wrong head gasket or anything, so if anyone knows what the difference is, I would love to know!

I had an 80 series 1990 FJ with a build date of Feb 1990, Toyota changed the model in june but kept the "FJ80" for a long time after, when I rebuilt the 3f I found out that there were a few differences with the pre june model to my Feb model, the oil pump is mounted differently in the sump the new oil pump is a genuine no after market had none in Aus 4 weeks from Japan $450 (after market was $150), the cam shaft timing wheel has to be genuine because there were not many made for that year $170 (after market $85), the total rebuild with head work (new valves, valve springs[check valve lift height for heigh of new springs], lifters re faced [not flat on bottom to allow the lifter to rotate], block bored and all new bearings, new pistons, gudgion pins, re ground cam shaft for LPG and for towing(by Crow), new radiator, alternator, carbi overhauled, new gas convertor...........total cost was around $5000. If you have an early 1990 3f I know what you will be going through. We removerd the bell housing with the motor and putting it back in the car we bolted the bell housing into the car first then manouvered the motor into the housing we used a splien guide to help with the alignment when you are dropping in the motor, and the bolts at the top of the bell housing was a nightmare to tighten but it is possible . Good Luck