Surf coil conversion with pics
Posted: Tue May 18, 2004 8:26 pm
84 Surf 98 izusu bighorn trailing arms
custom A-frame
93 Falcon front springs
84 Surf 98 izusu bighorn trailing arms
custom A-frame
93 Falcon front springs
Outer Limits 4x4 Board
Aussie Hardcore Wheelers
https://outerlimits4x4.com.au/
Surf coil conversion with pics
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84 Surf 98 izusu bighorn trailing arms
custom A-frame
93 Falcon front springs
Posted: Tue May 18, 2004 8:41 pm
Can post more pics if your interested. 
Posted: Tue May 18, 2004 9:13 pm
yeah mate, more pics 
A little closer would be nice though
A little closer would be nice though Posted: Wed May 19, 2004 1:44 am
And bigger 
Chris.
Chris.
Posted: Wed May 19, 2004 5:22 pm
Hear you go
Posted: Wed May 19, 2004 7:57 pm
dang, can you host them somewhere?
NICK
NICK
Posted: Thu May 20, 2004 3:11 am
dang, can you host them somewhere?
Sure can dude. Check out www.offroadexpress.co.nz under Photo albums in Users rides. You might have to sign up but its a good website.
Posted: Thu May 20, 2004 3:14 am
Hear you go
Anyone know why it did this instead of putting a photo in?
Posted: Sat May 22, 2004 2:52 pm
Just updated the my profile in the members section with new photos, got it to work this time.
Posted: Sat May 22, 2004 3:58 pm
rocksliders on trailing arms
[img]http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/phpBB2/files/2004_0516_006_.JPG[img]
Top spring mount[/img]http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/phpBB2/files/2004_0516_006_.JPG
Nissan Navara ball joint
[img]http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/phpBB2/files/2004_0516_006_.JPG[img]
Top spring mount[/img]http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/phpBB2/files/2004_0516_006_.JPG
Nissan Navara ball joint
Posted: Sat May 22, 2004 4:21 pm
Tom just curiuos how come you didnt run the Aframe chassis mounts out about another 150mm per side you seem to have the room ...................
Im no link setup guro .....but it just seems that there is gunna be a hella lot of strain on those links as its tryin to keep the diff under the rig .............
Tube also seems very light ive just finished doin my 4 link conversion on my mav and ive been using seamless pipe thats 6.35mm thick upper od is 33.4 and wen i finish the triangulated lowers they will also be 6.35mm thick with an od of 44 or so mm .....
Like i said im no guro (prob y i have a few probs with mine ) not havin a go at ya just askin the question......
Dan
Im no link setup guro .....but it just seems that there is gunna be a hella lot of strain on those links as its tryin to keep the diff under the rig .............
Tube also seems very light ive just finished doin my 4 link conversion on my mav and ive been using seamless pipe thats 6.35mm thick upper od is 33.4 and wen i finish the triangulated lowers they will also be 6.35mm thick with an od of 44 or so mm .....
Like i said im no guro (prob y i have a few probs with mine ) not havin a go at ya just askin the question......
Dan
Posted: Sat May 22, 2004 6:02 pm
A1MAV
Posted: Sat May 22, 2004 4:21 pm
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Tom just curiuos how come you didnt run the Aframe chassis mounts out about another 150mm per side you seem to have the room ...................
I've made the Aframe out of 5mm thick steam pipe which I'm hoping will be strong enough. I use the same pipe on the rear bar- before I pulled it to pieces- it took quite a few big knocks and never destorted.
About making the Aframe wider, its something that I never put too much thought into. I've had a look at a few others and they seem about the same. I suppose that time will tell.
Does photo show abit more?
Posted: Sat May 22, 2004 6:05 pm
A1MAV
Got any pics of the Mavrick?
What sort of problems have you had?
Any ideas on a 5 link front setup?
Posted: Sat May 22, 2004 9:07 pm
Neat job.
If you spread the A wider it would better supported by the chassis instead of pulling from near the centre of an unbraced box section.It would also act as a stronger panhard with a wider span as side thrusts would be taken in a more linier direction.
Forget these comments though and get out there and prove your work to yourself.
J Top
If you spread the A wider it would better supported by the chassis instead of pulling from near the centre of an unbraced box section.It would also act as a stronger panhard with a wider span as side thrusts would be taken in a more linier direction.
Forget these comments though and get out there and prove your work to yourself.
J Top
Posted: Sat May 22, 2004 9:24 pm
Well 5mm thick im sure will fine for the A frame .......the only reason i said this was because it looks really thin in that pic from behind showing the navara ball pivot point ...... but obviuosly not being 5mm 
Been told that with a four link setup say with straight ( not triangulated lowers) that you should have atleast 45deg of separation..........if you run triangulated lowers this could be less................im not totally sure on the A frame setup but i would assume it would be similiar..............
Im runnin bout 55deg on my pos and im also triangulatin the lowers next week plus extending the link bout 300-350mm forward.....changin from outboard chassis mount to inboard ........... (big thanx to Wendle off the board as he has helped a great deal so far )i havent bee able to get the desired separation between the links on the chassis end i only have a tad over 3" n once once i change the lowers on the diff i will have bout 9"......................
the probs im encountering are hopefully only todo with ,the nolathane bushes that im runnin are just way too soft and there for im gettin movement as the bushes moves front to back my diff is moving from left to right
bout 10 maybe 15mm whilst driving onroad but its stopped people from tailgatin me since i have had it done 
im goin to run standard nissan bushes and maybe a heim on the diff end to hopefully correct this .... but i may try just the nissan bushes and c how i go with binding probs
I have pics which i could email ya as the sites pics aint workin yet as u know or u can just wait till they come back online as ive posted some pics in my memebers section ......
5 link cool thats next on my list after the rear
Been told that with a four link setup say with straight ( not triangulated lowers) that you should have atleast 45deg of separation..........if you run triangulated lowers this could be less................im not totally sure on the A frame setup but i would assume it would be similiar..............
Im runnin bout 55deg on my pos and im also triangulatin the lowers next week plus extending the link bout 300-350mm forward.....changin from outboard chassis mount to inboard ........... (big thanx to Wendle off the board as he has helped a great deal so far )i havent bee able to get the desired separation between the links on the chassis end i only have a tad over 3" n once once i change the lowers on the diff i will have bout 9"......................
the probs im encountering are hopefully only todo with ,the nolathane bushes that im runnin are just way too soft and there for im gettin movement as the bushes moves front to back my diff is moving from left to right
bout 10 maybe 15mm whilst driving onroad but its stopped people from tailgatin me since i have had it done
im goin to run standard nissan bushes and maybe a heim on the diff end to hopefully correct this .... but i may try just the nissan bushes and c how i go with binding probs
I have pics which i could email ya as the sites pics aint workin yet as u know or u can just wait till they come back online as ive posted some pics in my memebers section ......
5 link cool thats next on my list after the rear
Posted: Sun May 23, 2004 2:45 pm
J Top
Posted: Sat May 22, 2004 9:07 pm
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Neat job.
If you spread the A wider it would better supported by the chassis instead of pulling from near the centre of an unbraced box section.It would also act as a stronger panhard with a wider span as side thrusts would be taken in a more linier direction
Do you think that I should brace it up abit? the box section is 75x50mm 5mm wall, I'm pretty confident that it wont move. I intent to brace up the mountung points on this x member where the A frame attaches.
Posted: Sun May 23, 2004 3:17 pm
No I would not bother to brace it,just try it as it is.
If you get too much rear steer or sway I would then look at spreeding the A out to the chassis rails.If you did this 3mm box would be all the Xmember required.
J Top
If you get too much rear steer or sway I would then look at spreeding the A out to the chassis rails.If you did this 3mm box would be all the Xmember required.
J Top
Posted: Sun May 23, 2004 6:54 pm
Looking pretty good so far. Couple of points that come to mind, i think the A frame needs to be done again, push it as far out towards the chassis rails as you can now, rather than later. I would also add a bigger triangular brace at the balljoint end, take it back about 100mm from where the two tube ends meet. Also a single straight tube in the middle, basically so it looks exactly like the letter A .
Also you can never have too much gusseting. You already mentioned gusseting the upper A frame mounts, that's a good idea, add some to where the crossmember mounts to the chassis as well.
My .02c
Cheers, Jeremy
Also you can never have too much gusseting. You already mentioned gusseting the upper A frame mounts, that's a good idea, add some to where the crossmember mounts to the chassis as well.
My .02c
Cheers, Jeremy
Posted: Sun May 23, 2004 7:23 pm
im have visions of the ball joint levering itself of off there. i to think that you need more of an A.
the links look to be a good lenght and nice and flat keeping the truck low, how do the coils mount? inside/under the chassis?
NICK
the links look to be a good lenght and nice and flat keeping the truck low, how do the coils mount? inside/under the chassis?
NICK
Posted: Mon May 24, 2004 5:16 pm
im have visions of the ball joint levering itself of off there. i to think that you need more of an A.
Yeh I've thought this too, and both nick and surfection are right, i think that I'll do the A frame again, it would be a bastard to got it back together only to pull it apart again.
Can someone explain 'rear steer' to me? Is it caused be the axle moving laterially causing it to twist? I've heard this to be common with A frames.
Posted: Mon May 24, 2004 5:21 pm
Hope this answers your question nick
[/img]http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/phpBB2/files/2004_0516_007_.JPG
[/img]http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/phpBB2/files/2004_0516_007_.JPG
Posted: Mon May 24, 2004 5:22 pm
doesn't look like its going too.... the springs are mounted on the inside of the chassis rail
Posted: Mon May 24, 2004 7:53 pm
[quote="tomsoffroadCan someone explain 'rear steer' to me? Is it caused be the axle moving laterially causing it to twist? I've heard this to be common with A frames.[/quote]
You have nothing to worry about dude, go tell whoever told you you'll have rear steer problems to visit the local paddock and STFU. Yes A frame'd rear setups tend to have more rear steer than a 4 link setup, specially a double triangulated 4 link. As nick said your links are at a good angle from what can be seen so far, and i'll bet spazbot flops again before you notice any ill effects from having a small amount of rear steer.
If you have short links which are on a steep/ish angle the axle tends to walk forward on the droop side, and push back on the uptravel side, giving you a crabbing effect, but honestly.... other than the most fawked up of setups, you won't notice it.
HTH
You have nothing to worry about dude, go tell whoever told you you'll have rear steer problems to visit the local paddock and STFU. Yes A frame'd rear setups tend to have more rear steer than a 4 link setup, specially a double triangulated 4 link. As nick said your links are at a good angle from what can be seen so far, and i'll bet spazbot flops again before you notice any ill effects from having a small amount of rear steer.
If you have short links which are on a steep/ish angle the axle tends to walk forward on the droop side, and push back on the uptravel side, giving you a crabbing effect, but honestly.... other than the most fawked up of setups, you won't notice it.
HTH
Posted: Mon May 24, 2004 8:23 pm
You have nothing to worry about dude
Thats good to hear, I was abit worried that it might be a problem on the road.
cheers man
Posted: Sat May 29, 2004 2:54 pm
Quick update..
Bought a pair of rangie front arms last week, stripped the front of the chassis and the spring perches off the diff. This week I'll make it all fit together.
Bought a pair of rangie front arms last week, stripped the front of the chassis and the spring perches off the diff. This week I'll make it all fit together.
Posted: Sat May 29, 2004 8:37 pm
Sounds good Tom so wat ya doin you not goin 5 link no more??? just gunna run a rangie style setup if this is the case have alook here http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... php?t=8508 at Strangerovers slotted bushes for rangies and discos an so forth they seemed to make a consideralble difference in flex
And if ya not doin this setup just disregard
A1
And if ya not doin this setup just disregard
A1
Posted: Sat May 29, 2004 10:17 pm
A1MAV
Posted: Sat May 29, 2004 8:37 pm
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Sounds good Tom so wat ya doin you not goin 5 link no more??? just gunna run a rangie style setup if this is the case have alook here http://www.outerlimits4x4
Yeh I've changed my mind, shes now going to be a 3 link just like a rangie but with one difference..... I'm going to put the arms upside down so they go over the diff instead of under it. It means that there will be nothing hanging down to get caught on, also means that the arms will be on a more acceptable angle. What do you think?