Outer Limits 4x4 Board

as i dont think $3k odd is worth it i have been looking at just getting/making all the parts myself

i dont want a ball tearer but bit of 8psi would be good and along with a good tune and get my etgs correct ill be happy

now i can get a CT26 but is the the best way to go?
im happy with the price i can get 1 brand new ($400)

is there any others i should be looking at?

anyone input would be great

as with the other stuff for the kit im more the capable in manufacturing the
adaptor to fit the turbo to the manifold and oil,water,intake etc etc
exhaust will be a bit harder but i really want to do it myself

ps tried the search but im asking abit more

thanks

i dont know where people get the idea that there is such turbo as a ct-28. There is a ct-26 or a t-28 different brands and sizes

ct 26 is what is on the 1hdt t 28 is a garrett for 400 brand new seems like it will be one of the chinese made turbos 4oo might be alright now but what happens down the track when the turbo goes boom and goes through your head alot more $$$$$$$

so what to use then?

and sorry i ment ct26 - my mistake
looking at all these turbos im going cross eyed lol

title changed

hey it could last for ever that $400 turbo. but myself i would spend a bit more and put a garrett on. maybe the gt2860rs (disco patato) have a bit of a search.best rice in brissy was 1450 for the disco

I put a CT26 on mine. 400 from a import wreckers second hand in good nick. If you know where to get a brand new CT26 for 400 then let me know because i want one too.

Be careful - Not all toyota CT26's are the same. I ended up with one from a 7MGTE petrol motor and i believe it's the different compressor and turbine housing sizes that are making it use a shitload of fuel. Makes awesome boost right off idle all the way to redline, but still a lot of fuel. At least that's what i've been led to believe from some experts without getting a chance to put it on the dyno.

a second hand 1HDT manifold only cost me 120 bucks, and you really have to ask yourself is the couple of hours it will take you to make an adaptor really worth the savings when you could just bolt it on factory style.

oil and water lines are easy. If you want to do a neat job you could just copy a lot of the plumbing off a 1HDT

MILO

dont use a china turbo, seriously!

Keep your eyes open, ive seen good secon hand 1hdt kits fetch around $1000. Right up to $1700. But thats a kit and is worth it.

your all right
it is a "professional factory (based on china)"
well thats part of the repile i got - based on china? WTF

better off ringing wreckers to get a second hand one

ill post up what i come up with as im not going to use "based on china" turbo

2nd hand jap import ct26 (have to have a look to see which one it is) $550 included
this bloke rekons he has toyota superchargers (off and 4.5lt?) low kms for the same

what the go with theses types of turbos? can i have them rebuilt?
because even if i can get the right turbo for arround 1k the rest isnt that hard to do

if i get the turbo right in the first place than its just plumping it up and dyno to get the correct ETGs and im done - 2k tops and its my system

yes the ct26 can be rebuilt, cost will be around $600ish.

If you are handy enough to fab manifold adapters, I would look at getting a Garrett turbo. Instead of spending $400 on 2nd hand ct26 then $600+ on rebuilding it (near enough to $1000), I would seriously look at spending an extra $5-600 on a new Garrett

search google for Melett turbo, there is good info on toyota turbos so you can look up casting numbers and find out what model the ct26 are built for.

Edit: troopymad, you shouldnt need a dyno to get EGTs correct on 1HZ, fit a EGT gauge and tweak it yourself.

Also ct26 for landcruiser will have the wastegate set at around 11-13psi, should not be a problem so long as EGTs are kept low.

rockcrawler31 wrote:I put a CT26 on mine. 400 from a import wreckers second hand in good nick. If you know where to get a brand new CT26 for 400 then let me know because i want one too.

Be careful - Not all toyota CT26's are the same. I ended up with one from a 7MGTE petrol motor and i believe it's the different compressor and turbine housing sizes that are making it use a shitload of fuel. Makes awesome boost right off idle all the way to redline, but still a lot of fuel. At least that's what i've been led to believe from some experts without getting a chance to put it on the dyno.

a second hand 1HDT manifold only cost me 120 bucks, and you really have to ask yourself is the couple of hours it will take you to make an adaptor really worth the savings when you could just bolt it on factory style.

oil and water lines are easy. If you want to do a neat job you could just copy a lot of the plumbing off a 1HDT

MILO

post up the casting number on the exhaust housing, the std turbo off the 7MGTE has a much bigger exhaust housing, it should spool up much later than a landcruiser turbo. It also has a larger compressor wheel, so it will flow more air and should be good beyond redline

those $400 ones are from ebay are non genuine/copys
for your manifold get it from toyota its actually cheap for the box with gaskets and bits i can remmeber now but im thinking only $300 ish,you only need the front half well the front 2/3. oil line taps into the LHS of the block pressure sensor and weld or bronze a fitting into the sump make sure u put it were the fron diff wont come up and hit it when your doing jumps

80's_delirious wrote:yes the ct26 can be rebuilt, cost will be around $600ish.

If you are handy enough to fab manifold adapters, I would look at getting a Garrett turbo. Instead of spending $400 on 2nd hand ct26 then $600+ on rebuilding it (near enough to $1000), I would seriously look at spending an extra $5-600 on a new Garrett

search google for Melett turbo, there is good info on toyota turbos so you can look up casting numbers and find out what model the ct26 are built for.

Edit: troopymad, you shouldnt need a dyno to get EGTs correct on 1HZ, fit a EGT gauge and tweak it yourself.

Also ct26 for landcruiser will have the wastegate set at around 11-13psi, should not be a problem so long as EGTs are kept low.

some good advice mate
i would like to get a garrett , where would be a good place to get 1?

I bought one of these from these guys. I can tell you that thier service was fantastic.

Good price too! And I am not affiliated with this company, just a very satisfied customer.

http://www.ilracing.com.au/component/vi ... ory_id=114

whats that going on monkey?

your best option is to watch out for a used arb or ait or dynamic setup and buy it complete....rebuild the turbo and bolt it on. The ct26 from hdt is a good idea, same deal, another option is to buy a hdt motor complete/swap and sell your z.....u will get better performance on road and not better offroad krawling.

dow50r wrote:your best option is to watch out for a used arb or ait or dynamic setup and buy it complete....rebuild the turbo and bolt it on. The ct26 from hdt is a good idea, same deal, another option is to buy a hdt motor complete/swap and sell your z.....u will get better performance on road and not better offroad krawling.

would love to buy a 1HDT but funds wont premit that
if i find a full kit going at a good price then yes but i like that disco potato
i think i might get one and start doing it -

monkeycritter wrote:http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic186 ... t=gt2860rs

thanks for the link monkey
good job BTW

Thanks. I just got my EGT gauge this afternoon. Waiting on my boost gauge, and then, we will give her more fuel and boost. Then she'll boogie like a disco potato should!

Oh, forgot to add. I think with the Yotta's, you'll be best getting the .86 rear end? Not 100% sure, so do a search to see what others are doing.

My troll is a slug of an industrial motor, (4.2 diesel) and Iwant the power down the bottom. The yotta's have plenty more poke, so should be a better option going for the bigger a/r.

monkeycritter wrote:Oh, forgot to add. I think with the Yotta's, you'll be best getting the .86 rear end? Not 100% sure, so do a search to see what others are doing.

My troll is a slug of an industrial motor, (4.2 diesel) and Iwant the power down the bottom. The yotta's have plenty more poke, so should be a better option going for the bigger a/r.

the patrol is a gearing problem not a power problem toyotas have a shorter 1st gear

monkeycritter wrote:Oh, forgot to add. I think with the Yotta's, you'll be best getting the .86 rear end? Not 100% sure, so do a search to see what others are doing.

My troll is a slug of an industrial motor, (4.2 diesel) and Iwant the power down the bottom. The yotta's have plenty more poke, so should be a better option going for the bigger a/r.

ill have a look into it

im not the best at turbo talk but wouldnt the bigger A/R ratio make the boost come on later in the rev range? ill have to search more

troopymad wrote:im not the best at turbo talk but wouldnt the bigger A/R ratio make the boost come on later in the rev range? ill have to search more

yes a smaller A/R ratio on the turbine side means it will boost earlier, it also means the turbine housing will become a restriction sooner, a balance between early boost and enough flow at higher RPM is needed. wastegates allow excess exhaust gases by pass the turbine once boost is at the wastegate pressure

with a smaller A/R would you more likely have higher EGTs at high engine speeds because of the restriction?

from every thing i have read on here and people i have spoken to the .64 exhaust is the size you want. .86 will be to laggy and take to long to spool up. the disco with the .64 i think is where you should go others may agree or disagree

so .64 on a disco. i cant find any info about it on a 1hz

i have Pm a bloke on another forum that r running .86 disco on a 1hz
see what he comes back with