Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi all,

Today eavening I started with the bodylift of my Feroza.

It took me only 2 hrs for the right side - which sounds like a qualification for the olympic games

First i checked the cables, the lines, the steering... but I noticed NOTHING which might breake during the bodylift on the right side.
Then I removed all five bolts on the right side (and opened the bolts on the left side as well). I used a jacking equipment and some wood/timber to raise the body about 6-7cm. No prob so far.


Because I checked all bolts on the Feroza and I read all the related threads in the board here.... I decided to do only a 4cm bodylift instead a 5 or 6cm lift.
The reason:
There is no way to get these f*cking fine-metric bolts in Austria, so I had to do the lift with standard metic bolts (6 pcs 10x140 and 2 pcs 10x120). I reused 2 bolts/screws from the mid of the car to install it in the rear.... Thats why 4cm is perfect

The three bolts in the mid of the car are no problem at all.




Front: I drilled the nut with 10.5 and used a new 10x120 screw whith a new washer and a new metric nut - there is space enough







Rear: It was a little bit tricky - but it worked as I planed it
I reused one Daihatsu screw/bolt from the mid of the car to fix the bodylift-block in the rear:
The following pic shows the original ajustment:


The new ajustment with the used screw:




finished job:



BTW: The blocks I used are made of "epoxy casting resin" cause I got a couple of blocks from a friend (8cm x 30cm). I Used a circular saw and then I cuted of all 4cm discs/blocks. After this mess i drilled 12mm holes....

P.S The installed 31x10.5 on 8x15 rim is FOR BEEING HAPPY during the f*cking bodylift job...

Tomorow I'll to the left side....
Unsolved so far: How to exend the 4WD shift lever without fine-metric stuff here......

Best,
Haasa

If you still have the stud from the rear body mount and the nut as well, they can be used to extend the 4wd gear lever.
I did mine using these and it has held together very well even with the limited thread of a single nut. Plus you don't see it because the joiner nut sits under the rubber gearstick cover.

Looks great.
How do youthen lift the front and rear bumpers to match???
I am thinking of doing it to mine, but only if i can life the bumpers as well.

Jimmy L wrote:If you still have the stud from the rear body mount and the nut as well, they can be used to extend the 4wd gear lever.
I did mine using these and it has held together very well even with the limited thread of a single nut. Plus you don't see it because the joiner nut sits under the rubber gearstick cover.

perfect! Worst case ist welding two nuts together....

goforitifyoudare wrote:How do youthen lift the front and rear bumpers to match???

I don't know.... I will see -> I'll post some pics after the weekend.

perfect! Worst case ist welding two nuts together....

Cool, if you have a welder lying around anythings possible


goforitifyoudare wrote:
How do youthen lift the front and rear bumpers to match???

I don't know.... I will see -> I'll post some pics after the weekend[/b].[b]


The rear bumpers are simple (provided there is no lights which still wouldn't make much diff):

You get a piece of 4x2 timber( stud) cut about a 2 inch length, drill a couple of holes; insert the blocks; line up the holes and drive in some longer bolts.
Next get a piece of light steel or Aluminum and cut a 2.5 inch square, drill 4 holes and then bolt on using some nuts and bolts.
That takes care of the main brackets for the rear

With the front bumper, check related threads as I saw a diagram of a fabricated bracket used to lift the bumper. Since I have a (don't like my driving stay off the footpath ) bullbar I cheated and got a custom bullbar workshop to weld an extended bracket for mounting.

A picture tells a thousand words and a) I can't type fast b) Can't be bothered taking pictures c) Sleep better.

kidding


By the way where da hell is Austria? Why has you chassis got so much surface rust it's the worst I've seen on a Feroza. Suzukis are usually far more prone to body rust .

Jimmy L wrote:By the way where da hell is Austria? Why has you chassis got so much surface rust it's the worst I've seen on a Feroza. Suzukis are usually far more prone to body rust .

Austria is in the center of europe (south of Germany, north of Italy).
See map Nr. 25: http://avenarius.sk/pics/europe.jpg
Timezone is GMT+1 (now 1:15pm). Normaly a car's life is max. 10-12 years in Austria because of climatic conditions. We have up to 35° C in the summer und up to -20° C in the winter. Most of austria are high montains (up to 3700m -> "the Alps").... A lot of Salt on the roads are the death of the cars.... My Feroza looks perfect, dosn't it? .... I think you have not seen my Suzuki 88 as I bought it 3 years ago....

At lunch break I did the extension of the 4wd shift lever with the spare bolt ... perfect! THANKS

Haasa

Why has you chassis got so much surface rust it's the worst I've seen on a Feroza. Suzukis are usually far more prone to body rust .

Correct. My Suki's frame has no rust so far.... 16 years.

Andy wrote:

Why has you chassis got so much surface rust it's the worst I've seen on a Feroza. Suzukis are usually far more prone to body rust .

[

Didn't see that you were online , you must have posted while I was

Didn't see that you were online , you must have posted while I was

Most of the time I'm online (office...)

Do they put salt on the roads to melt the ice where you live???

@AJFeroza:

YES (thats normal for central europe).

Well there's the answer to our rust question

Bodylift done

some benefits of only 4cm bodylift:
- no parts from the engine must be monted lower ;-)))
- the fan runs great without lowering the cooler (1-2cm space) ;-)))









next step will be the bumper installation...

Haasa

Haasa, I note that you have removed your rear rollbar.
Are you going to get another one made up.....to go behind the B pillar ?? or are you not going to have one ??

@Ferozius:

I removed it only for welding in some sheet metal at the fastening points --> the wheel house is ... rusty, rusty, rusty... as you maybe learned obove



Haasa

haasa wrote: ... rusty, rusty, rusty... as you maybe learned obove

Haasa

Yeah.....bit of a problem over there.....salty roads

I personally think that it looks better without the rear bar and it's easier to get a cover made for the rear section only.

As you've probably seen from my avatar, I have also removed my rollbar and when financial enough, will get a 4 or 6 point full rollcage manufactured......I just need to come up with a design and buy the materials.

(I think I'll do this after I've locked it front and rear.....bigger expense to lock it)

hmmm i thought about removing the rear roll bar.. but i still want support.. tried to figure out how to place it under the b pillars but jus didnt work out due to restricted access for the passengers as well as access to screws on the top of the hard top in order to make the tight seal. i may look into removing the interior cover and re-enforce the b pillars sometime later.. then i will look into removing the roll bar.. but then again that means no protection for the passengers.... still debating here.

I don't have to worry about passengers, mine is now a dedicated 2 seater only.
I've also removed the tailgate spare holder as it couldn't cope with the weight of the 35" Centipede + 15x8 Steel rim.......it started making tears in the outer door skin
So the spare (when I take it) lives where the back seats used to be.

Kent (Toyhatsu) has added in a rollbar behind his b pillar and attached it to the existing rear roll bar....neat job.....but I just don't like the look of the rear bar...........It's a 'visual thing'

I did a custom roll bar at the B billar on my Suzuki:

nice work matey, looks beefy.

Front bumper...

was very easy (cause of only 4cm bodylift )





haasa

How are you going to cope with the rear bumper?

leave it off and make up a rear bar with some bling chequer plating hook you lights up and wella

Hi again,

The rear bumper was not a quick work








M8x80: Screw + bumper + washer + washer + frame + washer





I'm totaly unhappy with the look of the rear bumper and also the look of the cheep plastic fender flares...

So far - I'm finished.
Exept:
winch
GPS
Radio
CB
Lights
Roof-Rack
Dual Batterie

Haasa

ahh it looks ok nice and clean anyway!

ferog wrote:ahh it looks ok nice and clean anyway!

Clean? --> will not last very long

BTW: Does someone have an idea how to make a custom rear bumper? Pics?

I'm thinking about to fabricate a pipe witch I then fasten on the trailer-bar ..???